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Any help here would be appreciated.

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I've got a 45° double flare and a 37° single flare tool

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Tightening the longer end of the tool last gives it more leverage to grip the tube better. Does that make sense?

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But don't forget that the dimple in the holder has to be the right angle too

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thanks OZ . Holy Moses I forgot about the angle on the other side would have to match also . Sounds like I better just pony up & get a Summitt (they're cheap)(now I know why) assuming that the ends can be filed so it will clamp down tight

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After years of frustration with the $50? Summit type tools, I dropped a few hundred on the real hydraulic double flare tools, and glad I did.

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I was temped on one of them, sure look like a nice way to go.


On the tool topic, I just bought an A/C hose crimper, sure works nice

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" Does that make sense?"

It certainly does, but in this case the clamps are both bottomed. It has a slight bulge in the area of the tube because it's flexing. I C-clamped on each side to complete the squeeze but this stuff is stubborn. I can mill more off of the clamp but was just wondering if there was a good trick without squeezing the *ell out of the tube and making it look smaller after the install. I'm beginning to think I have to size it so that it actually pinches the tube down a little and makes it's own shoulder.

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But don't forget that the dimple in the holder has to be the right angle too

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thanks OZ . Holy Moses I forgot about the angle on the other side would have to match also . Sounds like I better just pony up & get a Summitt (they're cheap)(now I know why) assuming that the ends can be filed so it will clamp down tight

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Maybe moneypit will give you a deal on a slighty used one

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If you are going to any amount of double flaring,go to a refrigeration parts supplier and buy a Imperial-Eastman.It's tube holder (attached) won't slip no matter what size tube.It's still USA made and will last forever.In tools,you get what you pay for. :twocents

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Nice looking tool!


And I agree....that A/C crimper I just got is a good quality tool, and just makes the job go smooth and easy...I bought my flare tools a little bit ago, and wasn't aware of that style, sure looks good.

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Their double flair tools look like everyone elses!??

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This set is 24yrs old.May be different now,but this is the way it came.

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Looks like they might have changed it over the years...here is the same part number as your's...

http://www.hvactool.com/catalog.php3?hcategory=18&hsubcat=79&hpagenum=1&hproductid=93-FB

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I have my dads old double flaring tool and it's worn pretty bad. What I've done is take a small piece of worn out fine sand paper, put it in the groove and tighten. This may not be ideal but it has worked many times for me.

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I borrowed a KD 2190 from a guy at work, and it works perfect. I've never seen another one made quite like it.

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I borrowed a KD 2190 from a guy at work, and it works perfect. I've never seen another one made quite like it. I am now on the lookout for a good deal on one to get for myself. I messed around with some of those typical ones and they all slipped. I wouldn't mind the hydraulic style ones, but they sure are pricey for no more than I would use them.

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I borrowed a KD 2190 from a guy at work, and it works perfect. I've never seen another one made quite like it.

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http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kdt2190-78.html

A whole $14.53. Hmmm

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After years of frustration with the $50? Summit type tools, I dropped a few hundred on the real hydraulic double flare tools, and glad I did.

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The ability to make perfect double flares and no more frustration from trying to use a cheaper tool makes it priceless. NOTHING is more frustrating that getting to the last flare on a complex bend and having a cheap flare tool ruin the work. ...except have it happen twice...

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After years of frustration with the $50? Summit type tools, I dropped a few hundred on the real hydraulic double flare tools, and glad I did.

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The ability to make perfect double flares and no more frustration from trying to use a cheaper tool makes it priceless. NOTHING is more frustrating that getting to the last flare on a complex bend and having a cheap flare tool ruin the work. ...except have it happen twice...

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I couldn't have said it better. I just went through this on some 3/8 fuel lines. I borrowed a friends Mastercool hydraulic set and it was a breeze. I will be buy a kit soon.

Dan

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After years of frustration with the $50? Summit type tools, I dropped a few hundred on the real hydraulic double flare tools, and glad I did.

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Did the same thing.....Mastercool here...One of the best tools in my box.....

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My a/c crimper is a Mastercool, they seem to make real nice stuff

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I know what your talking about, the cheaper tools will do that. You can make it work by tightening the end of the tool closest to the tube first, then tighten the farthest away second. Tightening the longer end of the tool last gives it more leverage to grip the tube better. Does that make sense?

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I'm wondering if the sandpaper trick would take care of it, sure sounds worth a try

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get an otc stinger part number 4503. we sell them over the counter at my work for $33.85. it hasnt let me down yet. used it twice last week with no issues.

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My a/c crimper is a Mastercool, they seem to make real nice stuff

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I have a Mastercool setup and it is awesome. Factory looking flares without having to remove the line from the car after you bend it up.

The main problem with the flaring tools that are sold is that they are made for "thin wall" tubing. I have yet to see a parts store that sells said think wall tubing. Did you ever notice that your tubing vice (the thing that holds the tube) makes the tube oval when tightened down? This is because you are using thick wall tubing. I have never seen a cheapy double flaring kit made for "thick wall" tubing.

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Have been following this thread with interest. Ran across this description on Amazon, of thier Ridgid 345 flaring tool:

<i>Product Description
Item #: 632-23337. All flaring tools listed are recommended for soft materials such as aluminum and soft copper

No. 454W, No. 455, and No. 375 will also flare steel, <b>stainless steel</b>, hard copper, and brass

No. 458R and No. 377 will flare steel, <b>stainless steel</b>, hard copper, and brass thru wall thickness of .035 inches

No. 345 is a precisioin designed tool for producing 45§ flares in soft copper. brass. aluminum, and mild-steel tubing. A hardened, smooth cone provides fast, 45§ flares either single or double lap. A single clamp screw provides for easy clamping and removal of tubing</i>


Not reccomending a Ridgid, just for additional info. 458R was about $120.

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Well, got the Mastercool flaring kit by UPS after my $320 payment. Put small 45 degree bevels on the line. Locked it in the locking jaws and tightened up till it was very tight with the blocks bottomed. With the tool in place and adjusted, I squeezed the hydraulic handle as I half shut my eyes in fear. The other half of my eyes watched as the tubing pushed right out the bottom of the die!!!!! Noooo!!! It did absolutely no better at holding the tube than the cheaper tools did.
I don't see any way it will work unless I grind the outer diameter of the tube down to weaken it. It's 3/8" steel tubing with a .028 wall. That would be counter productive on a fuel line to thin it out more I would think. I'm confused about how so many people don't have any problems doing this unless they are using it on smaller tube.

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Wow...320 bucks?
Like somone said above, get some different tubing. Sorry about your trouble.

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Well, got the Mastercool flaring kit by UPS after my $320 payment. Put small 45 degree bevels on the line. Locked it in the locking jaws and tightened up till it was very tight with the blocks bottomed. With the tool in place and adjusted, I squeezed the hydraulic handle as I half shut my eyes in fear. The other half of my eyes watched as the tubing pushed right out the bottom of the die!!!!! Noooo!!! It did absolutely no better at holding the tube than the cheaper tools did.
I don't see any way it will work unless I grind the outer diameter of the tube down to weaken it. It's 3/8" steel tubing with a .028 wall. That would be counter productive on a fuel line to thin it out more I would think. I'm confused about how so many people don't have any problems doing this unless they are using it on smaller tube.

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Some things come to mind...

Clean the line and clamping die with brake clean to make sure there's no oil.

If you are using SS line like Summit sells you have to anneal the end of the line before flaring. I know the ad says it's already annealed, but trust me, it needs to be done again. I use my jet flame cigar lighter pointed at the end until it starts to turn golden, then let it air cool till it's cool to the touch.

Look at the clamping die on the back where the size is stamped. It should be indented where the "45 Inverted" is stamped and the print should be at 90 degrees to the "3/16" stamping. If not, it's the older design. Call Mastercool and ask for tech support. They will probably send you out the newer design clamping die.

You have to bevel the outside edge of the line as in the instructions.

Hope this helps...

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Making sure the end you're flaring has some silicone spray lube on it will help keep the flaring device from pushing it through the clamp.

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