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I still see it listed as $109. Where did you find that price?

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Anyone have opinions on the .474 version?

What exactly is the right combo for the .484? Most guys I've seen are running 3.91 gears. Will it work with 346 heads?

My only concern is the torque side. 71' Roadrunners weigh roughly 3800-4000lb so that's another factor.

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Camquest shows the 268AH-10 to give me the best results but that's just on the engine and not the rest of the drivetrain.

Here are the specs:

Advertised Duration 268 int./276 exh.
Advertised Exhaust Duration 276
Advertised Intake Duration 268
Basic Operating RPM Range 1,600-5,600
Cam Style Hydraulic flat tappet
Camshaft Gear Attachment 1-bolt
Computer-Controlled Compatible No
Duration at 050 inch Lift 222 int./226 exh.
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 226
Exhaust Valve Lash 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.464 in.
Grind Number 268AH-10
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 222
Intake Valve Lash 0.000 in.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.464 in.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 110
Notes Single-bolt camshaft, fits factory ID 2899206.
Quantity Sold individually.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.464 int./0.464 exh.

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Near identical specs to the MP 272/.455 which I feel is the best overall choice. .474 is an ok second choice but I wouldn't go any bigger than that

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I've run both the .474 and .484 in my 383 4-sped car. Between these two choices, I would recommend the .474 for your application.

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I have a buddy of mine who was offering me this purple cam for my 383. He ran it for a while in his 440 before he swapped cams and went with the larger .509 mp cam.

My car is a stock 4 speed, manual brakes, and power steering so vacuum is not an issue here. Weighs roughly 3800-4000lb and is going to be mainly a street car. The car does have the stock AC in case anyone is wondering and 3.23 gears but can bump to a 3.55 if necessary. Most of the 383 will be stock, minus the headers, performer intake, and carb. I'm going to do some head work on my stock 346's. I was looking at the XE262 comp cam but If I get a freebie cam that'll save me some money.

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Which 484 Mopar cam, as there are 2 of them..
The original one (P4120235) and the later one (P5007697).

The original 484 has a great idle lope and runs well in a 4 Speed car up to 6K, but has low vacuum.. (<8")
If street driving and car has power brakes and auto trans, the later 484 is a better choice for street driveability.

Just my $0.01..

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I do want the power but I plan on taking a cross country trip when the car is done from san antonio, tx to central maine.

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Anyone have opinions on the .474 version?

What exactly is the right combo for the .484? Most guys I've seen are running 3.91 gears. Will it work with 346 heads?

My only concern is the torque side. 71' Roadrunners weigh roughly 3800-4000lb so that's another factor.

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Looking at your spec card, it looks like comp decided to use almost all the same specs but shorten the intake duration and lengthen the exhaust duration. Not a bad idea utilizing the larger exhaust valves on stock heads, or any other head for that matter.

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I'm not dead set on keeping the 3.23's. So I'll probably just find another third member so I don't have to use my #'s one. I know my old man has more than one sitting around the house and one is a 3.91 gearing. I'll probably go with the .474 to work with my AC and with a 4 speed it should do pretty good in the 1/4.

I sent comp cams a request to get there 2 cents. I'll probably just stick with MP.

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If you do stick with MP, the grind you would go
with would be P4452993, 280/474 110CL. Good cam,
with 3.91's will work well at the strip/street.
The 3.91's CAN be changed when not running at the
strip, RUN taller tires to raise effective gear
ratio on those highway jaunts. Try to use a small
single plane, or step to the Eddy Performer for
good power. If you have good flowing heads run the
Performer RPM. I know that the 4-throw is pretty
self explanatory, run a carb (650-670 cfm for good
snap thru the gears) with vac secondaries for econo/power. If not going with the MP cam, you
might want to try Hughes Engines. Their hydraulic cams work very well and make torque/power. They are on the Internet. Food for thought!! Good luck
with your 383!! It will run well!!

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I'd go lunati voodoo 60302, comp XE268 or lunati voodoo 60303 with comp #911 springs.

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The 268 works great in the Stepson's 383 RR.Very streetable.274 shouldn't be too much trouble in a 4 speed car.
Ron

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I am going to mill the heads and what not to raise compression. I will be using the #'s matching 383 block from my car. It won't see a whole lot of drag time but I want the power to put the typical ricer in his place.

My only issue is knowing how the 4 speed works with all of this cause I have no experience on that side of the house. As I said before, I am probably going to do a gear swap. I have an 8 3/4 not a dana.

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The 8 3/4" is a sturdy unit, very good alternative to the Dana. Lightweight, as compared to the Dana but just as strong to a point. For what you are doing, it will be MORE that adequate.
The 4 throw is nearly bulletproof, but you will
NEED to know how to SHIFT it with authority to be
consistent. As far as the "ricers" are concerned
with, word of caution - pick your fights (races)
wisely. Just because a import has less cubes
does not mean that they aren,t packing a HUGE
PUNCH.

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Comp XE-268

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Well here's a little update. My friend who was offering me the camshafts passed away roughly a little over a month ago from cancer. Hank Kruse was one bad a** car guy and acted like a kid in his 69' Charger RT/SE and died at the age of 69. I will really miss him, and the parts he left behind that I bought up are really going to help get my car together. And I have finally come up with what I believe is a reasonable combo.

I found an old man who is giving me a 69' HP 383 block for free and possibly a 400 later once he gets his son to bring it over. Either way the combo is going to remain the same.

*383 block standard bore or .030 over
*KB400 pistons (-6cc dome)
*452 heads with some port work and bowl blending
*Factory Hi-po manifolds
*Edelbrock RPM performer intake
*Barry Grant 750cfm carb
*4 speed, AC, manual disc brakes
*3.91 gear with a 285/70/SR15 BFGoodrich tires
* Shooting for 9.5:1 CR
*Upgrade to electronic ignition

The only reason I'm sticking with my factory performance manifolds is due to clearance issues with the clutch linkages and power steering pump.

How detrimental are headers if the rest of the combo is there for the larger cam grinds? I am not going over .500 lift with my cam selection.

What are the main differences between the older and newer grind of the 284/.484? I know the LSA on the new grind is 114 compared to the 108 LSA on the older grind. How does this affect the motor in all aspects?

I'm really interested in the looks of Lunati's voodoo cams, particularly the 60302 and 60303. My goal out of this car is a fun, streetable car, limited strip, and plenty of torque to move the 4000lbs. Like to get a mid to low 13 the one or two times I take it to the quarter.

I had bought up Hank's old super stock springs, but thinking I'll just stick with the factory springs.

Thanks for the help and advice thus far guys. Still looking for opinions now that I have decided on a combination and goal.

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First of all my condolences to
the family of the man that died. I too suffered
losses in my family due to the dreaded disease.
God bless. Now it sounds like you are
getting closer to your goal. As far as telling
the engine size 383 vs. 400 (.060 over 383), it
could be stamped on the side of the block and/or
a code is on the front pad near the distributor.
Those are your telltales, and IF it is a 400, well a little arm lengthening CAN do a lot for
low - midrange torque/power. Since it is basically
a street ride, the magnum exhausts are more than
adequate. 13 second rides DO work well with them
as long as your engine tune is sharp. 3.91's can
get you to low 13's, but the cam plays a BIG role
with the 4000 lb car weight. You may or may not
need lower the gear to 4.10-4.30 range. Pick the
right cam and work on the ignition timing/jetting.
It may be what you need without sacrificing the
driveability and day to day manners of the car.
The Voodoo cams are of a good design, just watch
your lift with the stock heads, or you may have
some machine work to do on the valve seats. The
superstock springs, hold on to them!! Find out
the Spring #'s and it will lead you to the rate
of the spring. Your better approach is to use
the current springs (unless they are really worn)
and put a spring clamp kit just rearward of the
front spring eye. Add a pinion snubber to the
differential (nose) and it will lower your traction problems at the strip. Set pinion snubber
about 1 - 2" from floorboard at strip, depending
how hard you drive at strip. Not really needed on
the cruising runs. The 114 degree cam basically
gives a broader powerband and a smoother idle. The
108 degree cam gives a narrow but higher powerband
and has more of a "rumpety - rump" type idle.
Either one are good, it just depends on the engine
design you have (compression, cam, carb, gears,
vehicle weight, intended usage), You get the picture? Food for thought my friend.

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Thanks for the condolences hypersonic.

I have both a 383 and 400 blocks now and figure they both look the same unless your a mopar nut and can identify the ID pads.

I might try headers, but I'm worried that I'm gonna buy a set of flowtechs or summits and will have to modify my clutch linkages.

As for the cam, my father doesn't agree with the 60303 lunati cam but really likes the look of the xe268 cam. So if he likes that one, then I think lunati's 60302 would be better choice with the setup I'm going for.

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As far as headers go, it is a better product/for
more money world. You might get lucky on a set that fits with your clutch linkage. And it might be a little
pricey. If you do, you might as well go with the coated headers (last longer). 383's and
400's are exactly the same in dimension, so if you
decide to swap one for the other, no problems. Or
if you want to go low buck go, with the Magnum 383
- 440 exhaust manifolds. They would clear your clutch linkage and work just as well as headers
till 4500-5000 rpm. Then headers will take off
in the power department after 5000 rpm. Its up to you on what you want to do. Resaerch your cam and BE HONEST about your engine's powerband. Too much
can be more harmful, than good. Especially at the pump!!!