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Re: cure for sixpack idle screw weirdness [Re: rbstroker] #590529
01/27/10 05:33 PM
01/27/10 05:33 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
RobX4406 Offline
I Live Here
RobX4406  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
Quote:

Quote:

well, i got some good advice that seemed to work out perfectly.

Robx suggested i close the outboard mixture screws to 1/4 turn which i did. then I set the center at 1 1/2 out and see if the car will idle.

sure enough it did. i used a vacuum gauge to fine tune it but at the end of it all, i was at 1/2 out on the outboards and 1 1/2 or so for the center. i could turn the center screws in and watch the mixture change accordingly.

idled real nice. and the garage stopped getting smoked out.


seems to be running as good as it ever has. the real problem seems to be my outs were WAY too rich, so i had my center all wacked out on the transfer slots and the idle screws wouldnt work. really elementary but my baseline was so far off i got lost.

thanks rob!




Any suggestions on setting up the idle circuits on a completely stock 1970 six pack setup? It is super rich at idle right now.




Stock cam?

Give the engine as much initial advance as it wants, then limit the mechanical advance to hit your total. That's first and foremost. Stock timing specs are pretty worthless, IMHO.

Use a vacuum gauge (highest vacuum minus 1"), starter kickback method or advance it until it stops picking up RPM (resetting it back to desired RPM along the way).

Once you have that, then go to the carb settings.

Re: cure for sixpack idle screw weirdness [Re: RobX4406] #590530
01/29/10 07:29 PM
01/29/10 07:29 PM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,139
West Tennessee
R
rbstroker Offline
super stock
rbstroker  Offline
super stock
R

Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,139
West Tennessee
Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

well, i got some good advice that seemed to work out perfectly.

Robx suggested i close the outboard mixture screws to 1/4 turn which i did. then I set the center at 1 1/2 out and see if the car will idle.

sure enough it did. i used a vacuum gauge to fine tune it but at the end of it all, i was at 1/2 out on the outboards and 1 1/2 or so for the center. i could turn the center screws in and watch the mixture change accordingly.

idled real nice. and the garage stopped getting smoked out.


seems to be running as good as it ever has. the real problem seems to be my outs were WAY too rich, so i had my center all wacked out on the transfer slots and the idle screws wouldnt work. really elementary but my baseline was so far off i got lost.

thanks rob!




Any suggestions on setting up the idle circuits on a completely stock 1970 six pack setup? It is super rich at idle right now.




Stock cam?

Give the engine as much initial advance as it wants, then limit the mechanical advance to hit your total. That's first and foremost. Stock timing specs are pretty worthless, IMHO.

Use a vacuum gauge (highest vacuum minus 1"), starter kickback method or advance it until it stops picking up RPM (resetting it back to desired RPM along the way).

Once you have that, then go to the carb settings.



DUH. I should have given some more info. The intake setup is completely stock from my '70 Cuda. The engine is a .030 over 440 with a 4.15 stroker crank. Exactly 9.9:1 compression. 906 heads prepped by Koffel (big valves). Racer Brown hydraulic cam .520" lift 254* @ .050 int and exh. Installed at 105* intake centerline. Lobe separation is 108*. Street driven only. Fully automatic 727.


This is the land of the free because of the brave
Re: cure for sixpack idle screw weirdness [Re: rbstroker] #590531
01/29/10 07:33 PM
01/29/10 07:33 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
RobX4406 Offline
I Live Here
RobX4406  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

well, i got some good advice that seemed to work out perfectly.

Robx suggested i close the outboard mixture screws to 1/4 turn which i did. then I set the center at 1 1/2 out and see if the car will idle.

sure enough it did. i used a vacuum gauge to fine tune it but at the end of it all, i was at 1/2 out on the outboards and 1 1/2 or so for the center. i could turn the center screws in and watch the mixture change accordingly.

idled real nice. and the garage stopped getting smoked out.


seems to be running as good as it ever has. the real problem seems to be my outs were WAY too rich, so i had my center all wacked out on the transfer slots and the idle screws wouldnt work. really elementary but my baseline was so far off i got lost.

thanks rob!




Any suggestions on setting up the idle circuits on a completely stock 1970 six pack setup? It is super rich at idle right now.




Stock cam?

Give the engine as much initial advance as it wants, then limit the mechanical advance to hit your total. That's first and foremost. Stock timing specs are pretty worthless, IMHO.

Use a vacuum gauge (highest vacuum minus 1"), starter kickback method or advance it until it stops picking up RPM (resetting it back to desired RPM along the way).

Once you have that, then go to the carb settings.



DUH. I should have given some more info. The intake setup is completely stock from my '70 Cuda. The engine is a .030 over 440 with a 4.15 stroker crank. Exactly 9.9:1 compression. 906 heads prepped by Koffel (big valves). Racer Brown hydraulic cam .520" lift 254* @ .050 int and exh. Installed at 105* intake centerline. Lobe separation is 108*. Street driven only. Fully automatic 727.




I'd start at about 16* minimum for initial and go from there. It may want as much as 24*. Just have to find out.

Re: cure for sixpack idle screw weirdness [Re: RobX4406] #590532
01/29/10 07:41 PM
01/29/10 07:41 PM
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 15,478
the boonies
aarcuda Offline OP
I Live Here
aarcuda  Offline OP
I Live Here

Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 15,478
the boonies
other than it being a 440 instead of my stroked 340 (416), our engine specs are very similar in cam compression, centerline lsa etc


It's got a cop motor, a 440 cubic inch plant, it's got cop tires, cop suspensions, cop shocks. It's a model made before catalytic converters so it'll run good on regular gas.
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