...and they say magnum heads flow real nice. good enough for a RPM cam, and ProProducts RPM Mag/LA crosswind intake.

a RPM 360 with magnum head will get you so close you couldn't tell the difference.

magnum heads $375 a pair rebuilt.
rocker/train stuff you need $180
intake $150
cam $150

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$850 rpm package, with heads!!

You would do good if you could get $150 for a bone stock magnum head.

A cheap way to make gobs of power would be to have Ryan J or some one put a good port job on them plus a set of the mopar .600 lift springs. They would be cheaper than eddys and make more power. The only advantage would be the weight differance but the extra 50 hp from fully ported mags would easily handle the 50 lbs weight saveings from the untouched eddys. The only down side to going this rout is you will be at the limit with the mags but the eddys could get ported more down the road. Magnum heads are the shiznaz for budjet hp!

If you only want 425hp then you can almost do it with no porting at all on them

I built a standard bore 360 about 5 years ago that went 12.40's all day long in 90 degree heat with a stock convertor and 3.91's, stock street tires and exhaust. It can be done very easy. I ran circles aroung another A-body with a 360 magnum that had tons done to it and was dynoed at 424 hp and he had a 2800 convertor and 4.30's. All I had was a 360 with a set of 273 rods with a set of kieth black 10 to 1 pistons. Had a 508 purple shaft, adjustable rockers stock heads. Single plane Edlebrock Torquer 2 and a 750 double pumper. All the tuning I did was on the carb with huge jets and total timing was 34 degrees. The more fuel and less timing the faster it ran. I have lots of video to prove it. Trust me you can get 500 hp with a pretty stock bottom end out of a 360. Just remember it's not a chebby. I spent less than 2k building it and it's still together today. I have pushed it many times to 7300-7400 hundred with no problems at all.

Within the last 6 months they did a build in I think poopular hotrodding or hotrod mag. I have got it somewhere around the house(I think). It was a budget 360 magnum build. I believe it produced 450 horsepower. From what I remember they took a lowmileage 360 magnum from a salvage yard. Put on a set of edelbrock magnum heads out of the box. New timing chain, A new roller cam, a mopar m1 single plane intake, a set of headers, and I think an edelbrock carb. They did not rebuild the engine. THey even reused the original roller lifters. My memory is not the greatest so I will see if I can find the mag, if I kept it.

I found the mag. It is the april 08 issue of hotrod magazine. It will give you all the exact details. It made 448 hp at 5800 rpm.

Mark,

Is that "my" motor?

Yep, that was it a year ago...

Streetwize, Is this the type of motor you have you stage 3 manual?

If you mean Quick77R/T's motor...yeah that's very close to what I'd call a Stage III level iron head street motor.

As Mark says machineing and block prep are key... and not just in getting the motor to 1 -1.2hp/cube, but to getting it to stay together.

One thing I mention in the manual is that the SB mopar has a better port cross section-to-cylinder volume ratio compared to our 440 big block....alos another nice feature is that the cam tunnel is raised in the block which minimizes crank/cam windage, allows more rod room for strokers and aluminum rods and an added benefit is it makes the pushrods proportionally shorter/stronger and lighter which makes for nice higher RPM (but not too high because the geometry could be better, lol) potential.

I'd go as far as to say that if you are looking to go say as quick as mid high 11's with a factory iron head, It's easier and cheaper to do with an A engine A body than it is with a B/RB engine, B/E body and in the case of the still plentiful 360, it makes for a torquey, very streetable combo.

But in the article they used a fresh crate motor and added eddies to get to the 448HP. What would I need to do if I buy the Ram truck motor with 109,000 miles to get close to those numbers without buying the eddies? Would I want to bore the block if the motor is in good running condition? I want a strong motor but one that will be here a long time as a serious street demon. I want to buy you manual, how do I do it? Thanks

if you have a good running engine i would just buy the eddies and be done with it. newer engines wear the bores less because there is less fuel washdown of the cylinders. you'll be hard pressed to find a taper to the bore of a newer engine even at 150,000 miles. buy the engine, get the eddies and get a cam. that engine will last you another 50,000 miles easy. if and when you blow that up or get so much blow by you'll have saved enough money to redo the lower end, at that point in time the eddies may need a tune up too.

How are rods resized? What are arp bolts?

Rods are resized by shaving off some metal where the two halves meet on the big end. Then they bolt it together and "drill out" the hole to make sure its nice and round. ARP bolts are heavy duty bolts that are nice and strong. If you change the rod bolts you have to resize the rods.