I have been looking for a 9 sec time slip and I am looking into other areas other then motor. (10.14 at 132 with a 1.39 60' best) The motor made 771 hp so I know it has the potential. Car is 3500 with me. I don't like or want fiberglass fenders etc so I know I am loosing some there. But what are some other ideas for me to try to gain some et??

My question is if I sealed up the hood scoop, (maybe .10 sec gain)???

Loose my drum brakes on front and rear, about what gain in et???

Tighten up the front shocks to limit travel,
et gain???

What else can I do and expect in et gain??
I don't have the money for a new k member system so this needs to be cheaper items like 1000 or less.

Any suggestions Appreciated.
Thanks David

Sealing the hood and lighter brakes should do it.

Tubeless tires,, bumper brackets.

I think you could get your 9 with just sealing the
scoop and re-tuning the carb ... the brakes sure would
help

All of the above. ESPECIALLY the brakes. With the higher MPH wouldn't you just want better brakes anyway? Discs are light years ahead of drums for stopping power. Much easier to service also.

Get the tallest front tires you can fit on the car and then find a track with a lot of rollout. Find a lightweight driver?

I would do the front brakes first. Aluminum radiator.

Then an aluminum water pump housing, Moroso or Meziere water pump.

You can lighten your K-member with a little fab work (or send to Bondo Bob). Fab or buy some aluminum bumper brackets.

I see a passenger seat in that pic, can you lose any more weight in interior?

You can reduce resistance with light wheels and tires, gun-drilled axles and lightened gears, AL driveshaft, rollerized trans, synthetic fluids, but it will cost you plenty of $$$.

Thanks guys for the info so far.
I will answer some of them so here goes.

#1 a Lighter Driver will Greatly help out but I want to drive it.

#2 I have the alum rad, meziere pump assem, alum driveshaft, light weight wheels, tallest moroso front tires, spool, alum floors, and some other little stuff.

#3 I did have fiberglass bumpers but they got cracked from a ford guy hitting the car in the staging lanes. I put the steel ones on after the new paint was applied so it didn't happen again.

#4 I guess I didn't mean rolling resistance about the brakes it was rotational resistance I was talking about. Getting those big things turning.

#5 I would Love to try one of Bondo's frontends on the car but the money isn't there for something like that. I have a small budget for racing as I have 2 RR's to keep going. His and Hers racing.

#6 I have a decent conv but there may be a little more left in that department so I will be talking to PTC about that.

#7 I already have a parachute for the car so maybe I can just take the brakes off and stop with the chute?? LOL

#8 I may try some header extensions to see what that does also.

I will seal the carb to the hood for next year and maybe try a spacer on it also. I may also try putting the fiberglass bumpers back on as I believe that was close to 50 lbs for the front and back together.

I appreciate the suggestions and hope I can get more suggestions to try.

Thanks Guys David

maybe you could blockoff the grill area,even behind the factory 1.i think it works best up fron though.

Whats your engine Dave? You have a roller yet? PTC does nice work, but If I were going to try to dig up some E/T through the converter I would try Lenny at Ultimate Converters.
Back when I ran the Dakota, I ran mild ported 440-1's and a solid flat tappet cam.
I switched to a roller, and had the heads CNC ported by MCH.
The truck picked up .5 seconds in the 8th mile, and 10 mph....

My engine is a 493 cu, indy sr max wedge ports flow 331 int, 650 solid tappet cam, 1.6 harlon sharps, 1090 king demon, alum rods, ross 13-1 comp, run 114 torko fuel, indy dominator intake, callies 4.150 crank, crank trigger, etc.
It dynoed at 771 hp.

I may try the bigger valves but I really don't want to pull the motor apart since it is still fairly new yet. I have 219 181 valves in it now.
I don't think I would gain that much by doing the bigger valves.
Anyone have any real experience doing the valve swap??

Again Thanks for all the suggestions so far.
David

I agree there isn't enough to be gained with a valve swap to warrant it. Lightweight brakes would be plus. Where ever else you can take weight out of the car where it won't be seen. Window regulators, back seat, bumpers, bumper brackets and anything else you could think of. It all adds up.

How much rise are you getting on launch? Which diameter torsion bars are you running. A one size larger diameter torsion bar may slow the front end down a little. More forward motion and less vertical.

Garth

I run used 318 bars up front.
I need to change my 4 link setup a little because it also rises in the back some.
I got some tips from Monty but ran out of time this fall to try it out.
To many issues came up that needed fixed.
Monty suggested stiffening the front shocks, stiffening the rears also because of the wasted motion.
I will have a full season of testing next year if I don't sell it first.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Anymore would be considered and noted in my to do book.
Thanks David