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bench testing gauges #499071
10/16/09 09:28 PM
10/16/09 09:28 PM
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LimeliteAero Offline OP
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Does anyone know how I can test a set of dash gauges while I have the cluster on the bench?

TIA!

Re: bench testing gauges [Re: LimeliteAero] #499072
10/16/09 10:45 PM
10/16/09 10:45 PM
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denfireguy Offline
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You can test all but the ammeter with the following procedure:
Using a 5 volt power supply, you can test them by applying positive 5 volts to each gauge. They should deflect to their maximum indication. The negative goes to the metal frame.
The ammeter can be checked by flowing current through it from the power supply to a load. Since they measure around 20 amps or so, you will need a high current supply and a high wattage load to see much deflection. Most issues with ammeters are poor connections and carbon tracking from arc overs and can be checked with an ohm meter instead. It should read infinite resistance to the frame ground using the 1,000 ohm scale.
Craig


2014 Ram 1500 Laramie, 73 Cuda
Previous mopars: 62 Valiant, 65 Fury III, 68 Fury III, 72 Satellite, 74 Satellite, 89 Acclaim, 98 Caravan, 2003 Durango
Only previous Non-Mopar: Schwinn Tornado
Re: bench testing gauges [Re: denfireguy] #499073
10/16/09 10:54 PM
10/16/09 10:54 PM
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LimeliteAero Offline OP
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Thank you very much!!!

I may need to read it three or four times until I comprehend it, But I'll get it.

Re: bench testing gauges [Re: LimeliteAero] #499074
10/17/09 08:52 AM
10/17/09 08:52 AM
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Coram, NY
Pool Fixer Offline
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I used what this guy posted to check and calibrate my 68 charger rally cluster

OK, bear with me this will be a little long. I assume you have tested all your gauges and they are functioning. If not here's what I did: I took a standard 3 D-Cell battery flashlight and used it as a power source. 3 D-Cells put out almost 5 volts very nicely. I hooked some jumper wires to the back of one gauge at a time, Positive to the Red in my picture and the negative to the other post which corresponds to the sending unit. If the gauge peg's you know it's working. (I've read you can use a 9 volt battery , just be careful no to fry your gauges!!) All the other posts where they say to ground the wire at the sending unit will only make the gauge work if it is in fact functional and if the cluster is getting power and your voltage regulator is working. (lots of and's... I had to check everything since that did not work for me). If all your gauges are working, check the voltage regulator. Again I have no special tools only a multi tester so here's what I did: I pulled the voltage regulator out and hooked 12 Volts directly to the input (middle post), I then grounded the regulator right to the cars battery (post hanging off the case) and hooked up my multi tester to the 5 Volt output (Bottom post). The meter should bounce around from zero to ~5 volts. If not the regulator is shot. Do a search on this site for how to update it to solid state or get a diffrent one. Now on to the wires. As in my picture everything is color coded. The 5 pins at the top of the circut board is where the plug from the dash harness hooks up. (This was my problem, the previous owner must of had the dash out at some point and the plug was in upside down!!! None of my gauges worked and neither did the dash lights because the power was all going into the Temp sending unit, I think that's what burned out my temp gauge) So, make sure the Orange wire is on the side closest to the speedo and the Grey wire is on the opposite end. That's all you need to run the fuel, temp, and oil gauges. Getting the dash lights to work is a whole other post. icon_smile_big If everything is hooked up, the cluster is well grounded, and you are getting power..... Then you can check the gauges by grounding out the wire at the sending unit and the gauge should go to full. If not, might be the sending unit. testing gauges A voltage limiter needs to be plugged into the circuit board. Attach a 12v power source to the circuit board pin that supplies power to the board. Ground the cluster housing. Go to Radio Shack and buy these resistors. 271-1101 10 ohm 271-1103 23 ohm 271-1109 150 ohm Just attach a short piece of wire with a small alligator clip on each end to a single 10 ohm and 23 ohm resistor Take two 150 ohm resistors and put them side by side and then attach the wires with clips. The jumper wires are so cheap you could make three of each and have all your gauges testing at the same time. The LOW position is 73 ohms The MIDDLE position is 23 ohms The HIGH position is 10 ohms Temperature gauge The L position should read 120* on the dial The M position should read 170*~180* on the dial. The H position should read 250* on the dial. Oil gauge The L position should read 0 psi on the dial. The M position should read about 30 psi on the dial The H position should read 80 psi on the dial Fuel gauge The L position should read empty on the dial The M position should read just under 1/2 on the dial The H position should read full on the dial All the above are plus or minus about 1/16ths of an inch. Here's how you can check to see if the voltage limiter is working. Voltage limiters can be tested out of the car with a few jumper wires and a test light. Hold the limiter with the terminals facing you. The horizontal terminal should be on the top. The vertical terminal in the middle and the angled one on the bottom Ground the horizontal terminal. Supply 12v to the vertical terminal. Touch a 12v test light to the angled terminal. You should get a pulsating light on the test light. If the light doesn't flash or stays on all the time the limiter is bad. The limiter does not provide 5v. It provides a pulsating 12v that averages out to 5v

Re: bench testing gauges [Re: Pool Fixer] #499075
10/17/09 10:56 AM
10/17/09 10:56 AM
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LimeliteAero Offline OP
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Thanks.................







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