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Any 59* 700 hp combos around, whats it take to do? Is there a point of no return on the 59* block?

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Any 59* 700 hp combos around, whats it take to do? Is there a point of no return on the 59* block?

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I have a 2880lb./ 59*/ r-3 /w-9 glide setup this year, worked o.k...did a best of 6.04@113 in the 660'and 1 run in the 1320 was 9.64@138- old setup was a eddy top end that did 6.26@109 in the 660'
Dave

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My old combo ran pretty good. Drysump W5's with sheetmetal intake and Enderle alky injection. Ran 9.0s at 149 2600lb. Dyno sheet showed 741hp but the "mob" here accuses Bill Richardson's dyno as being happy one?
All I know it was a great motor that ran hard for 3+ years.

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Personally, i dont see a 59 degree head(except the latest and best indy head)making an honest 700 ponies, based on the old "riders dyno" benchmark.

I know w5's wont do it, w2 wont, the b1ba and eddies wont, so that leaves some sort of 245 indy head as the only way of getting there

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I believe our dyno to be "accurate". My engine made 560HP and runs 10.50's in 2500d.a. air in my 3320lb. duster with me in it.
MPH is usually 125-126.
To me, that's pretty accurate "comparing" other engines I dyno vs. customers cars.
Most combo's that don't "perform" as they dyno suggests are most likely lacking in the chassis and 60ft. over the dyno.

My car has gone 1.37-1.3960ft. Usual is 1.41.
I'm sure that when our dyno reads close to 700HP, it's accurate. I can't speak for anyone else's dyno but knowing what your dyno #'s read vs. in car performance vs. the chassis combo is KEY to getting the car to do whatever the customer wants it to do.
Indy heads flow well, and I find it hard to believe that you think 700HP is unattainable by them in all but the biggest port they offer!
But your allowed to "think" whatever you want...

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A friend went 9.0's at 2450 in a 70 cuda just on gas with little b1ba heads. We figured at that weight he was about 620 real horsepower. So you were about 150 pounds heavier than he was.

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Please, let's only talk about first hand experience here, not a friend of a friend blah, blah, blah. You know all racers are liars he probaby weighs 2200lb!!lol And we are supposed to believe someone who list there car as having "bicycle tires" does that is some weird way make you feel good??

fyi, my car actually weighed 2650+ lbs, had a huge frontal area and burned up high gear clutches when it ran those #'s. Ask Laverne, he saw the trans first hand. things the Moroso calculator can not figure in...

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But your allowed to "think" whatever you want...

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Wallaces calculator says I make 1108 flywheel hp to run 128mph in the 1/8th at 3400lbs!

59deg 408ci edelbrock heads.

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A friend went 9.0's at 2450 in a 70 cuda just on gas with little b1ba heads. We figured at that weight he was about 620 real horsepower. So you were about 150 pounds heavier than he was.

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Please, let's only talk about first hand experience here, not a friend of a friend blah, blah, blah. You know all racers are liars he probaby weighs 2200lb!!lol And we are supposed to believe someone who list there car as having "bicycle tires" does that is some weird way make you feel good??

fyi, my car actually weighed 2650+ lbs, had a huge frontal area and burned up high gear clutches when it ran those #'s. Ask Laverne, he saw the trans first hand. things the Moroso calculator can not figure in...

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But your allowed to "think" whatever you want...

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Amen to that!
I think ou812 has a clue

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Wallaces calculator says I make 1108 flywheel hp to run 128mph in the 1/8th at 3400lbs!

59deg 408ci edelbrock heads.

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which calculator and what was the ET??

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Your HP computed from your vehicle ET is 954.08 flywheel HP and 858.672 rear wheel HP.
Your HP computed from your vehicle MPH is 1,108.08 flywheel HP and 0.9 rear wheel HP

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I'm not 100% sure, but I think Johnny Pennington's small block fits what you described. He's from Lexington, SC. Blue with purple stripes Dodge Dart running 9.60s. CHIP

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Personally, i dont see a 59 degree head(except the latest and best indy head)making an honest 700 ponies, based on the old "riders dyno" benchmark.

I know w5's wont do it, w2 wont, the b1ba and eddies wont, so that leaves some sort of 245 indy head as the only way of getting there

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The only way to go

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420 CU IN, W9, 13:1 Comp, .728 lift Roller, 280 [Email]Dur.@50[/Email]

yes it can be done but I wish we would have went with a 48 Deg Block.

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A friend went 9.0's at 2450 in a 70 cuda just on gas with little b1ba heads. We figured at that weight he was about 620 real horsepower. So you were about 150 pounds heavier than he was.

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Please, let's only talk about first hand experience here, not a friend of a friend blah, blah, blah. You know all racers are liars he probaby weighs 2200lb!!lol And we are supposed to believe someone who list there car as having "bicycle tires" does that is some weird way make you feel good??

fyi, my car actually weighed 2650+ lbs, had a huge frontal area and burned up high gear clutches when it ran those #'s. Ask Laverne, he saw the trans first hand. things the Moroso calculator can not figure in...

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But your allowed to "think" whatever you want...

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Amen to that!
I think ou812 has a clue

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No, its not idle talk, and many members on here are intimately familiar with the car, its weight, and its combo.He racedit at many Classi events in super pro, and at 131 forever.

It is soon to come back out with a w9 motor Best machine built and Dyno'ed that makes the kinda power your "w5 motor" made..We will see how far in the 8's it runs on gas.

So if your car at 150 pounda heavier ran the same numberS on injected alky as his diD, you are way off at 741 ponies.

This very subject was beat to death on one of Ryans thread several years ago, .

Your car ran good, but 741 horse is a dream you need to let go of one of these years, Wayne.

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Any 59* 700 hp combos around, whats it take to do? Is there a point of no return on the 59* block?

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There are a few around. I don't know any personally but run across them occasionally.

What it takes??

Well that all depends on what your after and how much $$$$ you want to spend.

You want N/A, Nitrous or Boost????

Why are you sticking with a 59* block? If you already have a Block understandable. If your starting from scratch might as well get a 48* if you can. Easier head options available to work with.

Point of No Return. I guess your really asking HP limit. Well that all depends? What block you use, how you make that power and what you use it for.

There are at least 3-4 Flavors of 59* block that I know of (maybe more) Factory LA, Magnum R-3, Resto-Blocks and the X-Block can all be had in 59* flavor as far as I know.

As far as the easiest way to get a 700+hp Mopar Small Block. As was stated!! R5-P7 Nascar Motor.

Not sure how much they are going for now, but they were about $6500 complete and running about 2 yrs ago. Granted that was NASCAR Running. Not something you would put straight into a driver.

If your looking to build? There are some top-notch builder on here.

If your just curious?! Might want to check out some other Mopar pages as well.

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I find it hard to believe that a 400+ ci W-5 couldn't hit an honest 700.

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The reason for the post was, I ran into a chevy 434cid dyno sheet bragging contest @ a local builders shop the other day and got to see the dyno #s on alot of the trucks and rails we run with Every one was over 700 ponies from all different builders with a guy Scott Scharoff< I think that was the builders name not sure of the spelling but sounds like the russian vodka> having built several of the engines, all in the low 700hp range under 8K, It seems that if I step up a class my W5 rig wont be too competitive @ around 600hp, my engine has not been on a dyno so I don't know the real hp of my engine but I think 600 is close, some of the trucks I have already out run in the past but the rails and the light jeeps kick butt, So I have been kickin around what it will take to build a 700hp small bock mopar to compete, I have a good set of W5s that flow 325@ 600 and I dont remember the 700 flow #s but there was a small increase over 600, I don't trust my 40 year old factory block or the 6 other small blocks I have collected to run a bore over 4.06, I have a good 4"light crank and a set of BME 6.123 rods and several solid rollers I can reuse, just lacking a solid game plan, money is a bit tight this year so throwing 12k into a small block is not a smart option, this is a mud motor so the torque needs to be way up with the hp curve

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I do this alot, charge the customer alot less to do the engine before and after, on same dyno to see the gains and find out how much you had from the start.

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I would only use an R block, either R1 if you can find one, or R3. I think there is an R1 on here right now for sale in Tx maybe??

When I do a W5 head, I remove the original seats and replace them because they are prone to moving/falling out!
But I think you have good enough parts (minus the cam maybe) to do what you want, with a little more work.

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R blocks are fine


That said, i like the X blocks, reason being they are stock up top and will accept anybodies roller lifters, which is a plus,(in the 59 degree and roller cam world) and accesories, etc, are plenty beefy to handle anything a 59 degree head can dish out, and are lighter than an R3

Like any block, they should be sonic checked, mine has plenty of meat for another overbore and its currently at 4.100. Like any Mopar blocks, the thickness varies, hence why they all should be checked.I know guys running them at 4.125 even, and making good power with safe bore thickness.

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I would only use an R block, either R1 if you can find one, or R3. I think there is an R1 on here right now for sale in Tx maybe??

When I do a W5 head, I remove the original seats and replace them because they are prone to moving/falling out!
But I think you have good enough parts (minus the cam maybe) to do what you want, with a little more work.

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R blocks are fine


That said, i like the X blocks, reason being they are stock up top and will accept anybodies roller lifters, which is a plus,(in the 59 degree and roller cam world) and accesories, etc, are plenty beefy to handle anything a 59 degree head can dish out, and are lighter than an R3

Like any block, they should be sonic checked, mine has plenty of meat for another overbore and its currently at 4.100. Like any Mopar blocks, the thickness varies, hence why they all should be checked.I know guys running them at 4.125 even, and making good power with safe bore thickness.

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I am not up to par on small block , blocks, is there a thread with a good description of the blocks , years or current availability and how much machine work ya gota do to make some power with one? We had to put a ton of time in money in the 360 block between line hone, steel caps,decking, bushed lifters, oiling mod, ect...

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I am not up to par on small block , blocks, is there a thread with a good description of the blocks , years or current availability and how much machine work ya gota do to make some power with one? We had to put a ton of time in money in the 360 block between line hone, steel caps,decking, bushed lifters, oiling mod, ect...

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Ryan has an excellent FAQ about all this but currently his domain/website is unavailable.

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