Stock bottom end 383 Laying it down at very high rev (FF past the Beaumont)

I spin my stock bottom 383 to 6400. no issues. 383's are pretty stout. remember that they have a forged crank and the same webbing / oiling / architecture as 440's and Hemi's, only with a smaller 3.38" stroke that does not tax this hardware nearly as hard as the RB's 3.75 stroke. I've always felt that the 383 was about as durable a workhorse as ever came out of an American auto maker.

I saw some guys try to blow up a worn out 383 by putting a brick on the gas pedal trans in neutral, well it reved to 6000 for about 10 minutes and just sort of lost power and died, later when we pulled it apart the only damage we found was where the valves had nicked the pistons and slightly bent the valves just enough it would not run.

I once missed 2nd getting on it hard and it sure sounded like I hit 6000 rpm!

Go with the tried and true Comp Cams Xtreme energy 268 series (maybe maybe the # below the 268). Do a search and see the phenominal performance from this relatively mild cam. That cam- new valve springs, iron intake, OEM carb, headers, electronic conversion kit (Pertronics) Trans go or B&M shift improver kit- All the above is not expensive and is the way it was done back in the day when we could get good running, sound-used 340s, 383s and 440s. Sounds like fun. Id love to have a sound factory HP motor that did not require a full rebuild.

Great! I'm really excited about this. I've always felt the 383 was pretty much bullet-proof kinda like the old Chevy 283 and 327's. Very forgiving engines.

Does it make any difference that this is a 1964 vintage 383 HP engine as far as the bottom end strength? Does it still have the forged crank?

Since the valve train and upper end seems to be the limiting link in making power would I be better off to change out the stock heads for something with bigger valves, etc, etc or just update these stock heads with better rockers, hardened seats, etc.etc?

What would be the best aftermarket manifold/carb combo to use now with the stock cam ....knowing that someday it might have to be changed out if the cam, heads and other items are updated?

I remember "in the day" Carter AFB's were not bad carbs. Is the Edelbrock replacement much better or should I go to a Holley? Will the Holley retain the fuel any better than the current AFB that evaporates in a few days?

Sorry, but the more answers I get the more questions I have and I'm getting pumped up on this.

What first seemed a little overwhelming with high PITA factor is starting to sound like fun.

Butch

Don't compare a BBD to a sbc..Its like an apple to a steaming pile of cow dung Anyways.....
The bottom end is good, forged crank, rods, and tough cast pistons. The old recommendation is not too much over 6500 or the pistons may seperate. (I don't know if I buy that, never seen or heard of a 383 or 440 piston that split..)
Theres no point in worrying about heads if you have the stock cam. I would use either the 915's, 516(w/big valve) or 906s. The stock valve train should be good, unless you get wilder with the cam. Personally ,I like bigger cams, torque gets you going, but its always more fun at the topend when your horsepower kicks in and you drive by the putz in the 440 car that was just bragging about how much torque he makes...All you need is good gears and convertor

The 64 has the small valve closed chamber heads. If you replace the heads you need to pay attention to the chamber size. 84cc Edelbrock heads would be a good choice.
Pistons are the only thing you need to consider changing in the bottom end and you can put that off for later if you want.

If it turns out you need to do any amount of work to the heads other than put new springs in, you should probably just buy other heads. As was said, the early, small valve heads aren't really worth putting money into.

I would agree, the article ends up with more cam than you'd want, but the engine was making 400hp/430tq with the stock cam and all the other bolt ons.

For a respectable cruiser and low cost: If it were me I'd use the XE262H Comp Cam, headers and a 650 Holley carb; stay with the 3.23 gears and run the Hughes Street Master 2500 (will flash to about 2,500 RPM's) torque converter. I'd have the heads worked over with 2.08/1.74 three angle valve job, or purchase some heads off of a newer engine from say a 1969 to 1971. The XE262H cam is going to give up about 5 to 10 ponies compared to the XE268H cam, but will gain 5 to 10 pounds of torque over the 268. It's a trade off...more torque or horse power. Run a 2 1/4 inch exhaust system with 1 3/4 inch headers. I went with the 262 cam in my 383.

PS, I shift at 5,700 RPM's.

Thanks again everybody. Yep, 400 horses without touching the cam is very respectable.....plenty of HP for me (at least now) and it sound like most of what I bolt on now can remain if I add the right cam and heads later.

Butch

My 56k original mile 69 383 4 bbl with hyd. cam ... and a timing chain that was ready to jump a tooth or 3 ... goes into valve float at about 6500 rpm , I was shifting it at 6200 at the PS drags a couple years ago ...

440. Stops pulling at 4800 per Chasis Dyno. rev Limiter at 5300 and gets bumped often.