http://www.blueprintengines.com/popular_configurations/index.html?topic=specs&pc_id=55

This apears to be quite a deal for $3600. I know it is not much more then a stock (cast) crank stroker w/ magnum heads, but this is the deal the old 360 crate motors use to be... (only you do not get the roller cam)...

What do you all think...?

I might need a new motor for the nats and this might just fit the bill...

RAR II

I read on another forum that a guy is happy with his and that it was more like 410 hp after the dyno results.

A few differences between this and the MOPAR 402 (406) Crate motor. The big one is the actual heads, the MOPAR SB Crate motors are now comming with the R/T Magnum Heads which flow better then the regular Magnum Heads. As you already mentioned is the Roller Cam.

The big plus I see with the Blueprint motors are the Warrenty. Mopar offers none.....

Anyone else - I think I might push the button on this tonight...

Can someone explain why the base and the dressed version cost $1400 more? For what you get it does not appear worth it...

RAR II

They've got an 800 number, call them and find out. I found out about them when reading a catalog. I think you'll be pleased with their nebrasks values.
R.

I am planning on calling them tonight after work (I am on the east coast so they should still be open...).

I have my detailed list of questions:
1. What external balancer to use?
a. Website is unclear – on the main page it saids internal but on the install it saids external
2. What block is used for the core (magnum or LA)
3. How much overbore on the cly?
4. Why is there such a price difference between the dressed and undressed version?
5. Is the engine broken in?
a. What is the break in procedure
6. Is the dyno card for THAT engine?
7. Any issues with accessories
8. Does it work with power brakes (vacuum)
9. What is the red line for the motor


Anything else I should ask?

RAR II

I'd be really interested in what you found out. I have been thinking about the 408 basic. They do sound very interesting.

did anyone actually order one?

Yep, I got it and it is installed...

Overall it is good, but I need to get the carb tuned...

it ended up being an expensive project, I drove it to the nats last weekend...

More of a report later...

RAR II

wow that was fast, only 1 month.
waiting for the report.

I got a reply back from them and they say they just bolt on the 1411 and that is how they "tune" them... - not a good sign from a company that claims for $1500 extra they will give you a tuned in carb/dist...

The thing ran WAY too rich out of the box (and this is on the electric choke version), eyes watering, black inside exhaust pipes...

Right now I am not real happy with how it runs, but I am sure tuning it will get it in, I am also not real happy with some of the responses from the builders... they had trouble telling me what flywheel to put on it (what balance it needed)...?

actually I was hoping for how bad it was putting it in, what else did you have to do to get it to run. Why you say it was more expensive.

I was going to say.. Ther's no way they sell that dyno'd, if it comes that way. No plugs, no wires, no distributor, no water pump or fuel pump... I dont think so. They send you a dyno sheet for an egnien built with your specs. It cant be dyno tuned, then all the parts removed. (Ok, I know dyno fuel is no always pumped, nor is it hard to get ignition/carbs on and off. But a water pump? No crank pulley? Smells wrong to me. And. I wouldnt put hypers in a 4" arm engine, even with "Mopar large beam rods". (prob stock..) My opinion, they do good work, but things dont smell right. You should be able to get a buyilder to build you a better engine for a little more cash. It's no real bargain looking at the parts list. Fucntional. But nothing crazy. Really, a 360 with that cam listed should make close to 400hp. Nevermind a 408.

I agree things do not sound right, it did have some coolant on the outside of the motor - so it did look like it was run (or made to look like it was run).

Also, you would think they would price the dressed engine better if they have to put the extra labor in pulling everything out after it was run... For what they charge in the difference and what you get it does not make sense...

I did call them and they said each motor gets 1/2 hour of break in time and the only thing I need to do for break in is to prime the oil pump and go easy on it for the first few miles.

They did give me a dyno sheet with my engines serial number on it, but it only gave numbers at a few places not over a whole sweep.

Well what did it cost:

* Motor: $3600 + tax + Gas to pickup + Lunch to friend for using his truck
* Carb: $250 (still not right)
* Fuel Pump: 70 (carter)
* Water Pump: 70 (MP aluminum pump)
* Radiator: 170 (Summit 27" aluminum + friend welded brackets on)
* Headers (Dynomax ceramic coated): $300
* Exhaust
** $200 for jegs kit which did not fit at all (e body)
** $350 for Midas to screw it all up very bad and it still is not right, but it is on the car.
** ??? to get it done right...
* 360 Flywheel: 300
* Clutch: 200
* Trans Rebuild: 300
* Distributor: $40 (stock from Autozone)
* Bell housing alignment pins (3 sets): $60
* Breather asy: 15
* Recomened plugs: $40
* Plug wires:
* Cap:
* Rotor:
Bunch of trips to Autozone:
* Hoses
** Radiator
** Bypass
** Heater
** Fuel
** PCB
** Power brake
* Fuel lines
* Alternator
* Fuel filter
* Carb kit
* Antifreeze (at $10/gal it adds up quick)
* Oil
* PCB valve
* Fittings here and there for fuel, heater hoses, etc...
* More then likely another 200 at various places getting the "little" pieces you forget or can't find when you need them

Some of the above list you might not need or have to get, but I just assume do it once and do it right... (although the autozone alternator failed on the trip to the nats)

As far as the motor - general impressions:
1. It comes in a wooden crate (not as nice as the plastic crates the MP ones come in)
2. They used RTV on the oil pan and intake and did a somewhat sloppy job
3. They did not include the bolts needed to attach the water pump (I had to buy them as well)
4. The oil pan looks like a bunch of "patch" work on a stock pan - like no one could bend metal - only weld... - could have been done cleaner.
5. The timing marks on the balancer are on the wrong side, the small tick marks are away from the marker not close to it
6. Mine was an '86 block and the motor mount bolts were not long enough, the mounting bosses were larger on this block for some reason - just went the the hardware store and got longer ones...
7. It uses a magnum air gap manifold which uses the new (smaller) thermostat - they do not include the thermostat or the housing
8. The bypass hose fitting they give you does not work - it kinks the hose, I had to have one specially made...
9. The bolts for the intake are not long enough to hold the manifold and the throttle bracket (again back to the hardware store)
10. They did not put anything on the openenings durring shipping, no tape on carb flange, no plugs, nothing in exhust port, nothing in the distrbutor hole... it did have a bag on the top of the motor.
11. I comes with a lot of pipe plugs plugging some of the stuff you need, oil pressure sending unit, heater hoses, temp sender, etc...
12. The intake and timing chain cover were not painted (actually I like the look now that I am use to it).
13. It did NOT come with any oil filter adaptor, you need to have one for the straght or angled filter (by the way make SURE the oil filter is on before priming the motor ).
14. It came at top dead center zeroed out for you, but I still mananged to have the the dist 180 out...
15. Mine had an exhaust bolt hole helicoiled
16. They painted the exhaust flange - I had to sand it back off

So was it worth it compaired to the mp crate motor? It looks like the only thing extra it comes with is the intake.
So even for the base 360, it is 1k more.
Did you spend more that that?
What did you do for the accessory mounting brackets and pulleys?

I gave you a complete break down of what I spent in the above post...

Is it worth it... Not sure, we will see when it is running well... - right not it is not running real well.

I have a 300 HP 360 crate in my other car, I had much less trouble dialing it in, but I am very happy with it (it was only $3000 then, now it is 4500, but it comes with the RT heads).

If I was not so pressed to get the car to the nats, I would have built my own, and it would have cost a bit more, but would be a better and a true blueprinted motor...

As far as brackets, I used what was on the car orig, which was a mess, they still do not "quite" line up... but they never did, good enough for now....

you might want to play with that STOCK distributor you are running,probally has way to much advance built in it. probably could use some lighter springs also. Tom.