Anybody,your option on synthetic motor oil for a 440?
#427728
08/03/09 08:30 PM
08/03/09 08:30 PM
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sixty7gtx
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Anybody,option on synthetic motor oil for a 440/426 ??? 15/40 ok on a old 440 or 426 hemi??
1967 Plymouth GTX, 1968 HEMI, 4 Spd. Super Bee, 2010 Chrysler 300 Touring,
MOPAR = Machines Of Performance And Racing!!
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Re: Anybody,your option on synthetic motor oil for a 440?
[Re: Thackdaddy]
#427731
08/03/09 09:07 PM
08/03/09 09:07 PM
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sixty7gtx
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Quote:
Take the time to put new gaskets on, the 1st time I put it in my 440 I did not and I had a heck of a mess. I also use 3M weatherstrip adhesive as a sealer.
ok,,, thanks...
1967 Plymouth GTX, 1968 HEMI, 4 Spd. Super Bee, 2010 Chrysler 300 Touring,
MOPAR = Machines Of Performance And Racing!!
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Re: Anybody,your option on synthetic motor oil for a 440?
[Re: MACDiesel]
#427737
08/04/09 03:09 AM
08/04/09 03:09 AM
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mopar376d
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I have been using Penzoil 10w30 full synthetic with Wix filters for over 10 years.
It is hard to keep the motors sealed. Synthetic does tend to find a leak.
Why does divorce cost so much?
Because it is worth it!!!!!
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Re: Anybody,your option on synthetic motor oil for a 440?
[Re: sixty7gtx]
#427740
08/04/09 11:28 AM
08/04/09 11:28 AM
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 52 Texas
shart70rt
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AmsOil makes a great 20W50 Full Synthetic Racing Oil that I have used for many years in 440's. I live in the South, with many days of 100+ degree weather, so I prefer the heavier 20/50 blend. New motors need adequate break in on standard oil first, to prevent ring break in problems (AmsOil lowers friction to the point that new rings may not seat). It also cleans up gunk in dirty engines, so a good engine flush should be done first, followed by gasket changes when leaks appear on older engines.
70 Go Mango Charger RT White Vinyl Top 18 Spline 4 speed Lakewood Scatter Shield/ Centerforce DF Clutch, Hydraulic bearing 505 Stroker, dual 600's, hyd roller cam - 525 hp, 640 torque
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Re: Anybody,your option on synthetic motor oil for a 440?
[Re: sixty7gtx]
#427742
08/04/09 02:28 PM
08/04/09 02:28 PM
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Posts: 74 Stevensville, ON
Frank Raso
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You can use safely use a synthetic oil for your 440 but 15W-40 is a conventional/dino grade of Heavy Duty Engine Oil (HDEO). HDEOs have higher levels of phosphorus (the antiwear component of ZDDP) than Starburst Oils and a CI-4/SL HDEOs generally have the highest levels of phosphorus. If you're using 10W-30, you can also use a synthetic 30-weight HDEO but these are generally 0W-30 and 5W-30 grades because synthetics flow extremely well at low temperatures. Being a synthetic, they also don't thin out as quickly as a straight SAE 30 or 10W-30 dino oil. Heavy Duty Engine Oils
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Re: Anybody,your option on synthetic motor oil for a 440?
[Re: Frank Raso]
#427743
08/04/09 07:06 PM
08/04/09 07:06 PM
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68Cbarge
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Rebuilt my 440 in 2004. After intial break in with cheap oil,I have been using 20W50 Mobil 1 synthetic ever since. Nooo problems after 5 years of beating the snot out if it.
'68 Newport Custom Barge on a Budget!! BOAB 1973 Satellite WAGON! 318- 3 on the tree!! 2008 Chrysler 300c HEMI!
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Re: Anybody,your option on synthetic motor oil for a 440?
[Re: DennisH ]
#427744
08/04/09 07:37 PM
08/04/09 07:37 PM
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dOc !
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Quote:
Switched to Amsoil this change. Less cost,
Amsoil ? .. less cost ?? ... I went into a large Napa outlet last week and noticed an Amsoil display ...and was almost floored ....
$ 10.90 per quart ..
There is GOOD syn oil out there ... that anyone can buy that is about 15 beans .. for FIVE quarts.
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Re: Anybody,your option on synthetic motor oil for a 440?
[Re: sixty7gtx]
#427745
08/04/09 07:43 PM
08/04/09 07:43 PM
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CompSyn
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Fact: An SAE 20W-50 conventional motor oil flows the same as a SAE 20W-50 Synthetic motor oil. If they are both rated with the SAE spec. then they must flow the same at engine operating temp. Now if we are talking cold temperature flow, synthetics almost always flow better than conventional oils in cold temps. Fact: Synthetic motor oil does not cause leaks. Leaks can occur any time you change brands or types of motor oils whether it be conventional or synthetic. Some motor oils can leave behind deposits which can act as a supplemental seal on higher mileage engines. If your main crank seal is bad and you have gunk protecting it from oil deposits, then you probably have no-or-minimal leaks. Now you switch to another brand; it could be conventional or synthetic, both of which have differing levels of detergents and other additives than the oil that you were just using. These differing additives eat away at the gunk that was acting as a supplemental seal and now you have a leak. The issue was not the oil change, but rather a worn out crank seal. Fact: There are many synthetic motor oils that have the same or higher levels of Zinc and Phosphorous as Heavy Duty Engine Oil (HDEO). Example:
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Re: Anybody,your option on synthetic motor oil for a 440?
[Re: dOc !]
#427746
08/04/09 07:49 PM
08/04/09 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Quote:
Switched to Amsoil this change. Less cost,
Amsoil ? .. less cost ?? ... I went into a large Napa outlet last week and noticed an Amsoil display ...and was almost floored ....
$ 10.90 per quart ..
There is GOOD syn oil out there ... that anyone can buy that is about 15 beans .. for FIVE quarts.
DennisH is not talking about On-The-Shelf-Retail cost as you saw at Napa. He's talking wholesale cost.
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Re: Anybody,your option on synthetic motor oil for a 440?
[Re: CompSyn]
#427747
08/04/09 08:55 PM
08/04/09 08:55 PM
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sixty7gtx
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Quote:
Fact: An SAE 20W-50 conventional motor oil flows the same as a SAE 20W-50 Synthetic motor oil. If they are both rated with the SAE spec. then they must flow the same at engine operating temp. Now if we are talking cold temperature flow, synthetics almost always flow better than conventional oils in cold temps.
Fact: Synthetic motor oil does not cause leaks. Leaks can occur any time you change brands or types of motor oils whether it be conventional or synthetic.
Some motor oils can leave behind deposits which can act as a supplemental seal on higher mileage engines. If your main crank seal is bad and you have gunk protecting it from oil deposits, then you probably have no-or-minimal leaks. Now you switch to another brand; it could be conventional or synthetic, both of which have differing levels of detergents and other additives than the oil that you were just using. These differing additives eat away at the gunk that was acting as a supplemental seal and now you have a leak.
The issue was not the oil change, but rather a worn out crank seal.
Fact: There are many synthetic motor oils that have the same or higher levels of Zinc and Phosphorous as Heavy Duty Engine Oil (HDEO).
Example:
[/quote
What is a good zine level, ? ppm?
1967 Plymouth GTX, 1968 HEMI, 4 Spd. Super Bee, 2010 Chrysler 300 Touring,
MOPAR = Machines Of Performance And Racing!!
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Re: Anybody,your option on synthetic motor oil for a 440?
[Re: Frank Raso]
#427752
08/04/09 09:33 PM
08/04/09 09:33 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,610 Not2farfromNashville, TN
Rug_Trucker
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If it sits a lot synthetic will drain off important places. 10-30 Rotella, Delo, etc..... People are getting silly about oil anymore, additives etc..
"The only thing to do for triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing"
"NUNQUAM NON PARATUS!"
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Re: Anybody,your option on synthetic motor oil for a 440?
[Re: Rug_Trucker]
#427753
08/04/09 10:02 PM
08/04/09 10:02 PM
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Quote:
People are getting silly about oil anymore, additives etc..
You may have a point there...
Quote:
Zinc Concentration (ppm, ICP) : Though viscosity is critical in terms of wear protection, it does have limitations. Component loading can exceed the load carrying ability of the oil. When that occurs, partial or full contact results between components and wear will occur. Chemical additives are added to the oil as the last line of defense to control wear in these conditions. These additives have an attraction to metal surfaces and create a sacrificial coating on engine parts. If contact occurs the additive coating takes the abuse to minimize component wear. The most common additive used in internal combustion engine oils is zinc dithiophosphate (ZDP). A simple way of reviewing ZDP levels within an oil is to measure the zinc content. It should be noted that ZDP defines a group of zinc-containing compounds that vary in composition, quality and performance. Quantity of zinc content alone does not indicate its performance. Therefore, it cannot be assumed that oils with higher concentrations of zinc provide better wear protection. Additional testing must be reviewed to determine an oil’s actual ability to prevent wear.
Work Cited
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Re: Anybody,your option on synthetic motor oil for a 440?
[Re: Frank Raso]
#427755
08/04/09 10:35 PM
08/04/09 10:35 PM
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Joined: Apr 2008
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Quote:
A Group III synthetic should drain off less than a Group I/II dino or a Group IV (PAO) synthetic. Most commonly available OTC synthetics are Group III oils.
See BITOG Reducing wear at startup on a low service engine
That’s a pretty broad generalization.
A good starting point in any motor oil is the quality/type/amounts of base oils and complementary additives used in the oil as well as the know how in formulating a balanced lubricant.
Not all Group II, Group III, and Group IV motor oils are created equal. Some perform better than others and in some cases its application specific as well.
In the end, the trump card to determining a motor oils performance is with a Used Oil Analysis (UOA) report.
There are many Group II, Group III, and Group IV motor oils that return outstanding wear numbers in UOAs.
As mentioned, supporting data can be found at BITOG
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Re: Anybody,your option on synthetic motor oil for a 440?
[Re: Frank Raso]
#427759
08/11/09 07:55 PM
08/11/09 07:55 PM
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Joined: Sep 2006
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rbstroker
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i ran synthetic in my 440 powered race car (MP .590 solid cam) until I had to replace the cam for wiped lobes the second time. By then, I figured that it was best to go back to regular diesel oil.
This is the land of the free
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Re: Anybody,your option on synthetic motor oil for a 44
[Re: sixty7gtx]
#427761
08/12/09 03:26 AM
08/12/09 03:26 AM
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I had ran Mobile 1 10w-30 for years without problems, but a few years back they changed it, removing most of the ZDDP additives (same issues with the standard oil), and I wiped out a cam lobe! If you use a synthetic (or any "energy efficent" oil) with a flat tappet cam, make sure it is one that still contains a good amount of additives, or add additives to your oil.
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