Is there a one wire high amp alternator produced by either Mopar or Denso that can hang with the 140 amp GM units out there?
If so, who, what, where?

I am running an MSD 6AL ignition with a 5" shift light tach, electric BG Hot Rod pump, (soon to be replaced by an Aeromotive 1000 pump) high CFM electric single fan, and the stock head lights tails and dashboard.
NO RADIO, NO CREATURE COMFORTS.

Well? LOL.

Are you looking for an internal regulator like the GM unit? There the later Dodge truck ones work well, and they have high amp models. I also rebuilt my original with a 120 amp kit from JCwhitney.

Ryan

The answer to this is yes, but the alternator
does not lool like a stock mopar unit.

Powermaster offers a high output GM Style
alternator 140 amps for mopars

I think they also offer the very high output
Toyota style as well...

Check out
http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/

you'll see the links for mopar


Good luck

Did any Mopars come stock with a GM-Style Delco-appearing alternator? Was walking thru the boneyard and I came across an 88 5th Avenue small block with what looked like a Delco unit.....

Thank you much Gents.

i'm running the alternator from the durangos. its a denso unit and i believe has 120 amps stock and 150 or 160 optional.

Have you considered something from a late model Charger?

I use the Powermaster 140 GM alt on a modified AMC 258 alt bracket .

Something to consider, the high amp units may require a serpentine conversion.

A standard v belt can literally burn up from the friction.

I got ts 120 amp unit from mancini Racing and man does it charge. On my 68 you ground one feild other is to MP blue regulator and power straight to battery in trunk with doubled 10 soon to be #4 as you need to limit voltage drop and have at least # 6 for that amperage.

http://s542.photobucket.com/albums/gg408/dodgeboy8/?action=view&current=Alt2.jpg

http://s542.photobucket.com/albums/gg408/dodgeboy8/?action=view&current=Alt1.jpg

No the belt does not burn up ROTFLMAO!!!!!!
Trick is to tighten a new belt warm car right up and re tighten after belt has stretched. then I keep it fairly tight.
I run 10.7s @ 125 mph shifting at 7500 (been to 7800) and go out the end 7000 to 7300 depending when I lift like to run past a good bit sometimes! LOL!!!

I'd think that the Denso 120 amp kit would satisfy most any electrical demand. The wiring certainly needs to be upgraded when going with that many amps. The firewall connection wasn't ever designed to handle very many amps so it all needs to be upgraded or replaced.

Lefty or any members running the 120 amp Denso,I see in your pictures a two groove pulley but the web sites I've looked at always show a single groove.I need a duel groove because I have factory a/c.Did yours come that way,is it a option?

Andy, What If I have rewired the entire car with the harnesses from year one. New Dash/engine forward/rear lights. Can I still upgrade the alt. without changing the stock harness?

mines a two groove

picture

I use a 130amp denso alt of an 02 one ton ram van. bolts right in, it's externally regulated so you can use your stock reg. cheap on ebay if you can settle for a bit less amps. I see them a lot for 30-100 bucks. as said before, upgrade wiring. not a huge deal. I ran a 4g wire from the alt to the starter relay. I have since added extra fuseblock and relays for lights, fans, electric fuel pump. I got all my power for the relays from the starter relay where I ran that 4g wire.

Is there any way to identify what the rated output for a stock Mopar alternator. I want to upgrade my early (1965) alternator to a 1978 alternator that I pulled from a pickup. I realize that I will have to ground one of the field terminals. Don't want to go through the aggravation of the swap if the outputs are the same.

this might help and
check out this site www.qualitypowerauto.com.

So this is a question within a question.
I now have a 140 amp GM alternator for the last year or so with no problems; BUT, I hate the look.
I am considering one of the Chrysler old style units with high amp capability both at idle and WOT. This is why. I have an MSD 6AL ignition box under the dash in conjunction with a Blaster 2 coil, I have a Chrysler mini van single high CFM electric fan out front, I will be running a 1000 Aeromotive electric fuel pump very soon, but now have a Barry Grant Hot Rod continuous duty fuel pump, I have just the basic on the dash as far as lights and that is pretty much the package.

What Minimum idle/maximum WOT amperage alternator should I run with this set up? I understand that Quality power products converts the old school original looking alternators into Con Edison plants.
If I don't need a 200 amp unit to drain at my motor, then what's the amperage I can get away with?

you should always bypass the ammeter gauge esecially when you go to a higher output alternator.
the old gauges give the problems not just the wiring.
to figure what amp alter. you need, try to get the power usage of the msd, the fuel pump, fans, etc. and add that to your basic stock rating of 60 amps . i would think that 120 to 140 would be enough. run a large gauge wire #6 or #4 to your battery from the alternator also .

Yes, I bypassed the amp meter gauge and I have a large wire from the battery to the alternator. I just thought that maybe I don't even need a 140 and that I may get away with a 100 amp unit or smaller. I'll do the math and settle on the numbers.

i realize this is an old post, but are you still active on the boards?
if so, do you have any photos or helpful tips.

Not really. In fact with a higher output alt, the ammeter will be even SAFER than with the stock alt

Old dicussion back... allways floats back again and again and again