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How would the carb effect 4 cylinders on one side if the intake splits the gas from each side of the carb to 2 cyls on each side of engine?
Can you tell why this is driving me nuts?

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( (1) good point (2) because the solution is(right now) out of reach & the symptoms are making no sense. But we WILL figure it out and if you have a tach I'd ground each wire & see exactly how much RPM it is or is not dropping on each cyl

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How would the carb effect 4 cylinders on one side if the intake splits the gas from each side of the carb to 2 cyls on each side of engine?
Can you tell why this is driving me nuts?

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( (1) good point (2) because the solution is(right now) out of reach & the symptoms are making no sense. But we WILL figure it out and if you have a tach I'd ground each wire & see exactly how much RPM it is or is not dropping on each cyl

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I would start by unhooking any aftermarket tachs

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Maybe performing a leakdown test would tell us more than a compression test. Does it seem to run better at higher RPM than it does off idle?

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Broken intake valve spring is a possibility. The dampener and reminants of the spring would keep the valve closed and operating at starter speed. or turning over by hand.

Then when you run it, it'll bounce. Push on the rockers by hand. If you can move a valve up and down, you know what it is.

FWIW, I've seen it more than once.

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Do you have access to another carb you could just bolt on to try it... You have the engine in front of you, so you'll know but some of the Polys had manifolds that weren't dual-plane designs... & if thats what you have then the carb becomes suspect....

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I dont have another carb. The carb is a Holley 2 barrel right now. Manifold for sure is dual plane. One side of the carb feeds the center 2 cyls on one side and the outer two on the other side. Other side of the carb supplies the opposite.

I checked the exhaust and the heat riser is on the passenger side (Good running side) and it is stuck OPEN. The exhaust is single exhaust where the drivers side is welded to the passenger side tube and then they are one tube to the back (Exhaust will be new duals as soon as I stop spending money on this problem)

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You know the 4 cylinders are firing somewhat at some level, as you mentioned driving on expressway.

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"So the entire drivers side isnt working".
Very odd, I'd recheck the fireing order and replace the cap/rotor. How much play is in the distrib? Points or Electronic ing? For an entire back to be out is strange. Is something shorted or not grounded? Did you check for spark buy removing each plug, grounding it and crank the engine a few times? you should se a sprk jump, if not the problem is electrical, if you have spark it'd be a fuel problem. Clean all the threads on the head real goooood install plugs back in and try it.

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sounds like a fuel problem then.

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Heres what I checked/replaced:

Compression. All cylinders pretty close to 150psi

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Sorry to ask/say this but just in case since I don’t know what experience you have with tools and I'm just reaching but... All the compression gauges I seen have a reset to put the gauge back to zero. Did you reset the gauge after each cylinder?

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Heres what I checked/replaced:

Compression. All cylinders pretty close to 150psi

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Sorry to ask/say this but just in case since I don’t know what experience you have with tools and I'm just reaching but... All the compression gauges I seen have a reset to put the gauge back to zero. Did you reset the gauge after each cylinder?

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I am taking it that your 318 2 barrell, I myself feel you have a stopped up carb, I would pull and boil and rebuild, I know it feeds two ports on one side and two ports on the other ,however you say all cyclinders are on one side are missings, I would still pull carb and boil and rebuild.

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sounds like a fuel problem then.

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Not to disregard what you suggest, but wouldnt a fuel problem effect both sides of the engien and not just the drivers side?

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well if you have spark and compression all you need is fuel, since you spark is there and your compression is there that leaves fuel right??? Now I have no idea why or how that it's not. Pull the plugs on that bank turn the engine over a bunch.. you should get fuel pushing out the plug holes..if you do then you have fuel. Are you sure that intake runs both banks from the carb? meaning if you did have an issue w/ the drives side bbl it would run both sides off the pass side?
I only ask because I can't think of any other reason you car shouldn't be running.

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can I ask, when did this problem start? You said it was running rough before the tune up. Did the tune up make it worse? Do thos 318's have a heat raiser off the exhaust manifold? Is it on the drivers side? Could the "flap" be stuck shut? this would cause the exhaust not to be able to flow, maybe creating some back-pressure issues?
They only other ting would be you have broken valve train problems only on the drivers side, that would be highly unlikely, or it would be unlikely that each cylinder would be effected.
So that brings it back to fuel and spark.

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Broken intake valve spring is a possibility. The dampener and reminants of the spring would keep the valve closed and operating at starter speed. or turning over by hand.

Then when you run it, it'll bounce. Push on the rockers by hand. If you can move a valve up and down, you know what it is.

FWIW, I've seen it more than once.

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Broken intake valve spring is a possibility. The dampener and reminants of the spring would keep the valve closed and operating at starter speed. or turning over by hand.

Then when you run it, it'll bounce. Push on the rockers by hand. If you can move a valve up and down, you know what it is.

FWIW, I've seen it more than once.

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I think this may be it!

I pulled the drivers side valve cover whiel the engine was hot and pushed (with a glove on) on the rockers- I could get almost ALL of them to move atleast 1/8 of an inch without too much effort.

I have exp with cehvy but this is my first Mopar engine. On a chevy you cant push springs like that. If its the same on the Mopar then we may have found it.

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Broken intake valve spring is a possibility. The dampener and reminants of the spring would keep the valve closed and operating at starter speed. or turning over by hand.

Then when you run it, it'll bounce. Push on the rockers by hand. If you can move a valve up and down, you know what it is.

FWIW, I've seen it more than once.

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I think this may be it!

I pulled the drivers side valve cover whiel the engine was hot and pushed (with a glove on) on the rockers- I could get almost ALL of them to move atleast 1/8 of an inch without too much effort.

I have exp with cehvy but this is my first Mopar engine. On a chevy you cant push springs like that. If its the same on the Mopar then we may have found it.

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Is it the lifters that you are getting to move, or the valve springs?

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It doesn't surprise me that you can do this. Stock 318 springs are pretty wimpy and especially with age. I don't feel that this is our problem though. It may cause a high RPM miss do to float but idle should be uneffected. Also it would not effect the whole side.[/qoute]

Well CRAP I was hoping this was it... I did think it would effect it more at higher rpms but was hoping...

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The ONE thing that's common on all the driver's side cylinders but not with the passenger's side is the exhaust pipe leading to the Y.

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I checked the exhaust- no obstructions.

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Vacuume issue! Power brakes? If so check the line. If not you may have an internal vacuume leak on the intake gasket. A V8 will not run on 4 cylinders on the highway. Pull all 4 plugwires and try to drive it.

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Someone on the H.A.M.B suggested an intake vac leak in the valley. I changed the intake gaskets. The intake didnt look machined or warped but... How would I check for a leak under the intake???

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My question is - Did this thing run good at one time and just st art this?? What did you do to the engine prior to it doing this? Did you change anything??

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I had major carb problems- bent parts from a previous owner. After getting it fixed it ran okay. Not much low end power but seemed fairly smooth. Only a slight miss that was very hard to hear. It started getting worse for no reason at all. When I started looking into it, thats when I found the 4 cyls not working...

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Hey Joe: Tray as one person above said. Pull all for effected wires at one time, try move it. See if they are really totally missing.
I know that you have checked and re checked this too, but rtrcrck the firing order and remember that the wires go clockwise around the cap.
Check your egr valve.

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orange seems like a weak sprk. You wnat a nice blue jolt. What are your plugs gapped at/ I'd think .035-.040 should work. Try a new "hot" coil.

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Did you try up to this point, slowly covering the top of carb with your hand while it's idling, to see if it smooths out and rpms come up?

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A guy at work suggested tighening the rockers a bit more. Even if lash is good, if the tips of the valves or pushrods are worn it may not be openong correctly. I'll give it a try but will only run it long enough to see if it helps.

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For all of you that said carb and I said "But that cant be" YOU ARE THE MASTERS, I AM THE IDIOT!

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...
I'll report after I get a new carb....

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I look forward to the results with a different carb. I question whether the test you are doing is verifying anything.

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...
I'll report after I get a new carb....

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I look forward to the results with a different carb. I question whether the test you are doing is verifying anything.

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I would R&R the intake gaskets 1st & give the offending side a close visual when you come apart

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To check for an internal leak you need to get some gas into the crankcase, propane will work fine. Start the engine, open the gas valve on the propane tank feeding the gas either to the pvc opening on the valve cover or the oil fill on the other side. If there is an internal leak then the engine will smooth out when it has injested the propane. If this isn't it look at the idle circuit of the carb since you are only seeing the problem during idle.

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To check for an internal leak you need to get some gas into the crankcase, propane will work fine. Start the engine, open the gas valve on the propane tank feeding the gas either to the pvc opening on the valve cover or the oil fill on the other side. If there is an internal leak then the engine will smooth out when it has injested the propane. If this isn't it look at the idle circuit of the carb since you are only seeing the problem during idle.

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This is just one HELL of a good way to blow up a crankcase. Where did you find this nonsense?

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sounds like a hell of a good way to have big explosion and or fire. Of course then the problem would be solved.

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To check for an internal leak you need to get some gas into the crankcase, propane will work fine. Start the engine, open the gas valve on the propane tank feeding the gas either to the pvc opening on the valve cover or the oil fill on the other side. If there is an internal leak then the engine will smooth out when it has injested the propane. If this isn't it look at the idle circuit of the carb since you are only seeing the problem during idle.

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This is just one HELL of a good way to blow up a crankcase. Where did you find this nonsense?

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Where did "we" learn this propane / acet "trick?" Is this being taught in some mechanics school? Is it in some manual / book you bought? I've never heard of this before, but as a guy who used to service HVAC, including nat gas/ LP/ oil heat, I'll guarantee you that if you do this enough, you'll regret it.

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Where did "we" learn this propane / acet "trick?" Is this being taught in some mechanics school? Is it in some manual / book you bought? I've never heard of this before, but as a guy who used to service HVAC, including nat gas/ LP/ oil heat, I'll guarantee you that if you do this enough, you'll regret it.

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Better step back on your rant. Propane was once used to set carbs up. It was an authorized mopar service procedure. Properly used I see no problem un using it for a vacuum leak. A running motor is going to burn it not deposit it in the crankcase. There is a lot you obviously do not know.

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So basicaly the valves were being held open and it didn't show on the compression test because you did'nt do a leakdown?

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So basicaly the valves were being held open and it didn't show on the compression test because you did'nt do a leakdown?

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Not necessarily, without enough oil pressure the hydraulic lifters could be collapse and not show because they did not pump up enough with just cranking. But with the motor running and the lifters pumped up the valves could not close.

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Where did "we" learn this propane / acet "trick?" Is this being taught in some mechanics school? Is it in some manual / book you bought? I've never heard of this before, but as a guy who used to service HVAC, including nat gas/ LP/ oil heat, I'll guarantee you that if you do this enough, you'll regret it.

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Better step back on your rant. Propane was once used to set carbs up. It was an authorized mopar service procedure. Properly used I see no problem un using it for a vacuum leak. A running motor is going to burn it not deposit it in the crankcase. There is a lot you obviously do not know.

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Not too sure I follow what the whining is about concerning using propane to diagnose, but it is a tool we were taught in school to use. It is a tool that is sold in the tool truck and can even be found in the Sears catalog.

OTC makes this one.

It was also taught in smog class and it is also a required tool to have if you are a smog and repair station. Carb cleaner is not one of those items.

http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/80_BARResour...uide_Equip.html

Can it be dangerous?-If used incorrectly, of course

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Poly 318. I know nearly nothing about the poly 318, but I thought all of them in those years were adjustable.


Hopefully this is the problem and nothing else was disturbed while diagnosing it.

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They are adjustable but I neglected the fact. Sorry. But I am not the only one though because I saw other posts talking about lifter pump up and on a poly there is no lifter pump up. Solid lifters.

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Where did "we" learn this propane / acet "trick?" Is this being taught in some mechanics school? Is it in some manual / book you bought? I've never heard of this before, but as a guy who used to service HVAC, including nat gas/ LP/ oil heat, I'll guarantee you that if you do this enough, you'll regret it.

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Better step back on your rant. Propane was once used to set carbs up. It was an authorized mopar service procedure. Properly used I see no problem un using it for a vacuum leak. A running motor is going to burn it not deposit it in the crankcase. There is a lot you obviously do not know.

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I'm not stepping back from anything, and this is not a rant. It is a statement of FACTS that HAPPENED. I'm well aware of the propane setup procedure, and it has nothing at all to do with injecting flammable materials into the crankcase, any more than running an engine on LP does.

What I asked you is, where did you "learn" this, and so far you have not given a factual answer. I'd be willing to bet you cannot quote ANY respected shop manuals, school texts, or any other respected source that recommends this.

I WILL GUARANTEE YOU that if you do this enough, there will be an unplanned event. You will not like the unplanned event.

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I maintain that you may have adjusted you lifters wrong not that you did but may have. In my above post I suggested that you took the hydraulic to tight therefore ajusting the lifters with a bottomed out plunger. Now finding that you have solid lifters I maintain that you may have adjusted them to 0 lash + one turn which is not the way to do it. With the lifter on the base circle of the cam the intakes need .010 clearance HOT and the exhaust need .018 clearance hot.

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No I didnt do a leakdown like was suggested- I will have to invest in the parts to get the setup- maybe next time I can find it on my own.

Well Im defintiely no expert- I preferr adjusting chevy rockers while they are running

Anyhow- I dont THINK i adjusted them wrong because the car ran fine for a while and then progressively got worse... For some reason they tightened themselves up- If they are solid then I dont know how they tightened up on their own.

I plan to run another copmpression check this weekend as I want to see if the compression changed on that side.

After that I will recheck lash on all the valves. I did it hot last time but this time i will record the numbers hot and cold...

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I maintain that you may have adjusted you lifters wrong not that you did but may have. In my above post I suggested that you took the hydraulic to tight therefore ajusting the lifters with a bottomed out plunger. Now finding that you have solid lifters I maintain that you may have adjusted them to 0 lash + one turn which is not the way to do it. With the lifter on the base circle of the cam the intakes need .010 clearance HOT and the exhaust need .018 clearance hot.

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No I didnt do a leakdown like was suggested- I will have to invest in the parts to get the setup- maybe next time I can find it on my own.

Well Im defintiely no expert- I preferr adjusting chevy rockers while they are running

Anyhow- I dont THINK i adjusted them wrong because the car ran fine for a while and then progressively got worse... For some reason they tightened themselves up- If they are solid then I dont know how they tightened up on their own.

I plan to run another copmpression check this weekend as I want to see if the compression changed on that side.

After that I will recheck lash on all the valves. I did it hot last time but this time i will record the numbers hot and cold...

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pull the intake manifold off and flip upside down. sounds to me like it's cracked on the bottom side. I had a '73 440 New Yorker years ago that did this. I'm trying to figure out how you're keeping it running on 4 cylinders? and still driving down the road? please let me know if you need an intake manifold, as I'm well stocked for poly. my

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I maintain that you may have adjusted you lifters wrong not that you did but may have. In my above post I suggested that you took the hydraulic to tight therefore ajusting the lifters with a bottomed out plunger. Now finding that you have solid lifters I maintain that you may have adjusted them to 0 lash + one turn which is not the way to do it. With the lifter on the base circle of the cam the intakes need .010 clearance HOT and the exhaust need .018 clearance hot.

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No I didnt do a leakdown like was suggested- I will have to invest in the parts to get the setup- maybe next time I can find it on my own.

Well Im defintiely no expert- I preferr adjusting chevy rockers while they are running

Anyhow- I dont THINK i adjusted them wrong because the car ran fine for a while and then progressively got worse... For some reason they tightened themselves up- If they are solid then I dont know how they tightened up on their own.

I plan to run another copmpression check this weekend as I want to see if the compression changed on that side.

After that I will recheck lash on all the valves. I did it hot last time but this time i will record the numbers hot and cold...

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I guess adjusting the valves should of been one of the ten items you mention you did to the car in the first post.

I would not adjust solid lifters running, but would adjust it hot initially as MoparforLife suggested.

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I maintain that you may have adjusted you lifters wrong not that you did but may have. In my above post I suggested that you took the hydraulic to tight therefore ajusting the lifters with a bottomed out plunger. Now finding that you have solid lifters I maintain that you may have adjusted them to 0 lash + one turn which is not the way to do it. With the lifter on the base circle of the cam the intakes need .010 clearance HOT and the exhaust need .018 clearance hot.

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No I didnt do a leakdown like was suggested- I will have to invest in the parts to get the setup- maybe next time I can find it on my own.

Well Im defintiely no expert- I preferr adjusting chevy rockers while they are running

Anyhow- I dont THINK i adjusted them wrong because the car ran fine for a while and then progressively got worse... For some reason they tightened themselves up- If they are solid then I dont know how they tightened up on their own.

I plan to run another copmpression check this weekend as I want to see if the compression changed on that side.

After that I will recheck lash on all the valves. I did it hot last time but this time i will record the numbers hot and cold...

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I guess adjusting the valves should of been one of the ten items you mention you did to the car in the first post.

I would not adjust solid lifters running, but would adjust it hot initially as MoparforLife suggested.

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Listen, xxxxx, don't be raggin on me, and YOU are the one who stepped in with the comment about LP being a legitimate procedure, etc etc. The point I am and was addressing is the idiot who posted about

"To check for an internal leak you need to get some gas into the crankcase, propane will work fine. Start the engine, open the gas valve on the propane tank feeding the gas either to the pvc opening on the valve cover or the oil fill on the other side. If there is an internal leak then the engine will smooth out when it has injested the propane."

Then later defended his claim with:

"I have used both Propane and acetylene many times to find leaks, I'm not sure I know how it would blow up the crankcase..... There is no ignition source in the crankcase.... "

The above "procedure" has nothing to do with LP setup for tuneup used some years back


If you don't think this is dangerous. you haven't been around much.

Don't bother replying, I'm done with your a$$

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440sixpack!!!! Dont PM this garbage to me and then block me from replying. Go back and read...No where did I say anything about acetylene or injecting anything in the crankcase.

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