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It sucks to have to go back and tear the whole engine apart to replace a cam. I've already figured that out on my malibu when I used an Iskey cam that had waaaay too much duration.

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Did you have a resource such as Moparts for that deal? Did you wave off any veteran Chevy guys to do "the young gun" thing?

We aren't here to argue you, just to help you. Most of us have been there and done that. I had the 484 cam in a 71 Cuda. It was at the very edge of being OK in that car with a 440. You have a heavier car and less cubes. But wy bother to tell you anything, you just want to joust with us so...

Go ahead with what you want. You knew what you wanted before you came on here. You don't need us. You have some old dusty books. You want to prove those that have been there and done that wrong, go ahead and give it a shot. It is your money. Carry on...

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That is why I opted to go with the 280 instead of the 284 if I get a cam from MP.

I'm looking at other cams though because the main thing I'm seeing with the 280 grind is that its powerband is from 2000-5900 rpm for "mild compression applications". Now if I raised the compression by going with a flat top piston and some mill work on the heads, would the power curve kick in at a lower rpm than 2000? I also spoke with another guy that told me the CR of the 383 out of the factory was 10.25:1. Anyone agree with this statement?

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Not even close! My virgin numbers 383"HP" '70 block was a mile in the hole! I bet I had MAYBE...MAYBE 9:1

I really like the Lunati Voodoo series(others here do too.) I have one in a stoker 451 and just order one for a blown street 413 build

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That is why I opted to go with the 280 instead of the 284 if I get a cam from MP.

I'm looking at other cams though because the main thing I'm seeing with the 280 grind is that its powerband is from 2000-5900 rpm for "mild compression applications". Now if I raised the compression by going with a flat top piston and some mill work on the heads, would the power curve kick in at a lower rpm than 2000? I also spoke with another guy that told me the CR of the 383 out of the factory was 10.25:1. Anyone agree with this statement?

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What year 383?
The pistons (all flat tops regardless of compression from the factory, I think anyways.. ) need to be physically measured to see how far down the hole they are. Some are above deck on a 383 if I remember correctly... (correct me if I'm wrong guys!)

Most ratings weren't very accurate. The compression ratios, head cc's etc that were published weren't always bang on, more times than not they were wrong!

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Just don't tell us that it is tried and true and must be beaten to be dethroned as king- because it has been already.

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I didn't say that though on any post... I just said it must be a decent cam if it is still on the market and mopar guys are still using them. No need for you to stir up an arguement.

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First, I didn't know what cam I wanted before I came to this site. I'm not jousting or whatever you may think I'm doing here. I'm trying to learn all aspects of a cam and how the motor will behave when certain things are changed such as heads, CR, etc.

Second, not every person on this site is the dubbed "The Master of Mopar" or the brightest bulb in the box. Yeah I'm a young gun, and I'm learning.

Now I'm taking down all the cams and specs and coming up with different set ups with my RR. Those "old" dusty books hold many a secrets from the racing days when Mopar, Chevy, and Ford were duking it out on the track. ]


This IS what I plan on going with as far as parts, WITHOUT the decision of a cam:

-3.55 rear gear
-Stealth aluminum heads
-M1 dual plane intake (Eddy RPM performer wont clear my factory hood)
-flat top pistons
-factory 4 speed
-9.5:1 to 10:1 CR
-Carter Comp Carb or another possible variant that retains the factory look of a mopar carb

Hopefully this will clear up any confusion with previous posts. Basically, I don't need the fastest car on the block. Roadrunner's are pedigree cars that don't need to hall a** anymore to prove themselves. I just want something that drives great and once in a while spank the ocassional ricer that has an ego.

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Just don't tell us that it is tried and true and must be beaten to be dethroned as king- because it has been already.

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I didn't say that though on any post... I just said it must be a decent cam if it is still on the market and mopar guys are still using them. No need for you to stir up an arguement.

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And that is exactly what MP want's you, and others to think... it doesn't cost them a dime to sell the same grinds they have for years! Let's be honest... some feel a real loyalty to MP! Too bad they have not maintained the same loyalty to US... if they had we wouldn't be using 1970's cam grinds There are better..much better out there now

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Just don't tell us that it is tried and true and must be beaten to be dethroned as king- because it has been already.

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I didn't say that though on any post... I just said it must be a decent cam if it is still on the market and mopar guys are still using them. No need for you to stir up an arguement.

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You're right greenhorn, YOU started the arguement when you first came on here with the whole thread to begin with. Anybody not worshipping the MP junk is a fool in your eyes. So just run what you want, this is the internet, nothing to take very seriously.

BTW, I left the stock cam in my 383 RR when I had a chance to ditch it. So I'm still running an old tech cam myself.

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You're right greenhorn, YOU started the arguement when you first came on here with the whole thread to begin with. Anybody not worshipping the MP junk is a fool in your eyes.

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You're right greenhorn, YOU started the arguement when you first came on here with the whole thread to begin with. Anybody not worshipping the MP junk is a fool in your eyes.

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You must be reading a playboy when your typing this cause you sure aren't reading the posts on this thread. Yeah I'm a real greenhorn after building 6 engines. I don't think there is anything out there to tell if someone is a greenhorn or expert doc.

Now I have been inputting and changing data into camquest for the past couple hours. The MP cams were a good line of cams to work around. Some of you were right that the 284 MP would be overcam for my 383. The 280 grind I had suggested before was right at where Comp cams is suggesting their line of cams.

The difference between the two is that comp cams has a shorter duration on the intake rather than have the duration the same for intake and exhaust.

The two cams Comp showed that would give me the best torque and hp numbers were the XE262 and XE268H. The XE262 would give me 380hp and 440lb. while the XE268H would give me 390hp and 430lb. So which would you guys go with? Torque or HP?

BTW the set up consisted of using a set of ported 346 heads, dual plane high flow intake, 750 cfm carb, 9.5:1 CR, and HP manifolds.

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The two cams Comp showed that would give me the best torque and hp numbers were the XE262 and XE268H. The XE262 would give me 380hp and 440lb. while the XE268H would give me 390hp and 430lb. So which would you guys go with? Torque or HP?

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With the camquest program, I can actually see what the car is going to be doing rather than trying to put cam names on a dart board. What's gonna be hard is trying to find a car that has a nice choppy to mild rough idle cause I know the good torque producing cars are low lift and don't have a very radical idle as say the other guy in the 500+ lift range.

Another thing, I'm heading out to the junkyard here in a few and am gonna be looking at heads. I know there's nothing wrong with my 346 heads, but if I come across a set of 915 or 516 heads you think it would be a better thought to go with closed chamber rather than open chamber heads?

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Didn't you just post 12 hours ago that you were going with Stealths???

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-3.55 rear gear
-Stealth aluminum heads
-M1 dual plane intake (Eddy RPM performer wont clear my factory hood)
-flat top pistons
-factory 4 speed
-9.5:1 to 10:1 CR

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