The spark plug needs to be grounded to fire. No resistance between coil hi voltage (secondary side) and either the + or- side is not good. The schematic in that link I posted shows a connection ( it will be much higher than the primary resistance)

Secondary resistance should be 3100 ohms (3.1k ohms)

I'm laughing right now.

problem found, problem fixed, engine started, and my new kill switch works like it should and shuts down everything.

the problem was the coil negative wire to the orange box...was brittle and broke...but the heat shrink tubing was holding the connector onto the end of the wire...I found this as I was doing the test light the RIGHT way...light didn't flash at all...steady on.

I went to pull the plug on the box to swap the box to the other one, as now I don't know which one is which...and I slipped, and tugged on the wire enough to pull it out of the heat shrink...I thought "hmm...I bet that's been my problem the whole time.

grabbed another connector, stripped the end of the wire, crimped it on, tossed it on the coil, and the darn thing fired right up!

I guess I'll test the other orange box so I know if it's still good or not, then put the oil coil on to see if it is still good...as it probably is, and take the new coild back...that's $42 the wife will be happy I didn't spend!

I guess next time, I know to ohm out the wires too, not just the components!

Thanks for the help guys...guess I didn't need it!

and if you read above, I said why I suspected the coil...I knocked it while trying to remove a stuck bolt on the alternator, so I could swap out the alternator charge wires...apparently that "knock" against the coil is the one that broke the copper wires at the soldered and heat shrunk connection

But now you know so much more about coils and how ign systems work