CompCams XE268H-10 The following is from the spec card.
I'm using 1.6 rockers: Intake .509, Exhaust .512
Duration @.006 I=268 E=280
Open @.006 I=28*BTDC E=74*BBDC
Close@.006 I=60*ABDC E=26*ATDC
These specs are for cam installed @106* Intake Centerline
Duration @.050 I=224 E=230
Lobe Separation 110*

Quote from CompCams instructions "We grind most all of our cams 4* advanced."

So does that mean if I install it straight up (dot to 0* mark on crank gear) that I already have 4*? Do I need any more? The crank gear has settings for 0,2,4,6,&8* advance or retard.

The block is a 440, .060over with the 500ci kit from 440Source.
Stealth heads.
Ross dished pistons. About 8:1 compression.
Dyer's 671 blower, pulleys at 8lbs.

Thanks,
Roy

Roy, I'd strongly suggest that you spend the money and time to get the stuff and degree in the cam properly, not just line up the dots.
On a stock rebuild you can get away with that sort of thing, but on a HP build like you have outlined, checking things is a BIG part of the process to make sure it will live and perform up to it's potential.


http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=how+to+degree+in+a+camshaft&aq=f&oq=&aqi=g1

the cam is small for the cubes but should be fun.

Yes it's ground with 4 degrees advance built in,you need to install it straight up and check the ICL,it should be 106ICL. That doesn't mean it will work the best at that point,but you should still confirm that your within 2 degrees of that point or make corrections to get it there.

Sounds like a pretty mild build really, effective CR of about 10:1 maybe? Lots left on the table using a relatively small 6-71 on that much motor... Degree the cam in so YOU know what's going on and run it!

Again, Moparts members, thanks for the responses.

It is going to be primarily a street car and I've always wanted a blower. There are quite a few nice 3rd gen Chargers in the Member's Photos.

I already have a dial indicator and found some nine inch degree wheels on both Summitt and Jegs that aren't too expensive (for one job). I've printed the procedure from the links above and plan on giving it a shot.

I had called the tech line for CompCams but must have called on their busiest day. Maybe I'll try one more time.

Roy

i know it is time consuming to check everything but you will relax knowing things are OK and where you can go from there.i have a .549/.559 113lsa,252/260* at .050 cam i ran for about 50 passes if you want to change.[solid lifter]cam only.40$ plus shipping.i went to a roller is why i changed it.
what pulleys do you have?3%UD or 1/1?

Even with the small blower, I'd strongly advise checking with some cam guys about a real blower type cam. I dont think that one is what you want. I'm not the best with forced induction... but I think you may be better off with much more lift, at least 20° at .050, and an LSA around 114. And I wouldnt advance it...

I have a nice roller for sale 114 lobe separation 268/270 @ .050 and .424 (lobe) lift =(.678 with 1.6)

FWIW, one of the blower companies is now spec'ing 110lsa cams for street blowers, shorter duration with higher lift.Not sure if this is what the OP is using as a guide??? IMHO, the OP would be better off with a 114lsa, What he has will work, but he'll just lose some boost out the pipes. I'd call Engle Cams and see what they have to say ...

Now if I can just get people to stop buying the blower(s) off my project motor it might get done too

Keep us updated Roy

Where did you come up with 7 degrees of overlap? Are you using .050 numbers? Overlap at .050 is not usefull.It's 54 degrees and thats IF you accept the advertized duration,which is adjusted by the marketing department.

yes it was the .050 and at about.100 lift max.some have had 0 overlap and ran ok.my opinion he has a small amount.mine has 40* at .050.i have had as much as 70* at .050.

I'd probably get a cam designed for boost. They tend to line a 112-114 centerline.