I guess I'll try the ohmmeter. But if there is continuity in D-2-1, what would make it have no continuity in P-N? The only thing that could make this happen is the wrong rooster-comb, is it not?

Old, cracked, ATF-soaked connectors with tired oval contacts (remember your question about that?) have been known to do funny things. The center pin is supposed to get GROUNDED when working properly, and do it in Park and Neutral (see the synchronicity there?).

It's not a percentage bet, but it is an easy test to pull out the ohm meter. I could have gotten in my car and driven up there and tested it myself in the time I spent typing out that you should take out your ohm meter.

Okay, maybe that was a slight exaggeration...

Since I don't have an ohmmeter, will a digital multi-meter work?

Yeah, it has a K(Omega) setting.

So I want to get this right so I don't screw it up. Does this look like the right way to check? The one labelled 'Mine' should look like this?

Great picture.

Completely wrong interpretation of my words.

In each gear, you are testing for continuity the NSS switch outer pin pair while bolted into the transmission and disconnected from the harness, with the ignition key having nothing to do with it.

I sort of get it, but I guess I'm not understanding continuity. I thought continuity meant it would make a circuit. If there's no energization from a source (car battery via harness), how would I see continuity? Maybe I don't understand the multi-meter. I know, I am hopeless

Continuity (conductivity) and resistance are opposite sides of the same coin. Yes, you need some sort of "juice" to prove a circuit. That is provided by the battery in your multi-meter.

You use the ohm meter mode of your multi-meter to check for resistance (or LACK of resistance):

High resistance (big number) = open circuit.
Low number (theoretically ZERO) = intact circuit.

Anytime the metal pin in the center of the switch is allowed to extend, the BU light circuit will have continuity; when the correct roostercomb is in place the pin will only extend when the "divot" in the plastic shoe is in line, in all other gears the plastic shoe keeps the pin pushed in (see pic below).

The test results you posted are typical for the wrong 2-eared roostercomb or a correct one with the end of the shoe broken off.

You alluded to a solution in a bacon thread on the General Board.

Care to offer some closure here?

You don't want to know and I don't want to get yelled at for doing something that probably isn't the safest thing in the world...

You think you're the first one to carry around an eight year-old in the trunk who jumps out with a flashlight every time you back up?

ROTFLMAO

I thought I was the only one that cut the center wire and grounded it to the frame

then run a toggle switch up on the dash to turn back ups on

I figured it took care of shifting before cranking,just cranking on the fly

and the switch gets the tail gaters off the bumper when I throw the white light on them

ya want that rooster comb I gots?? you can have it itss already R&R from the vb

lmk