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Re: Eliminating ballast resistor... What coil do I need?
[Re: 70Cuda383]
#315177
05/11/09 10:41 PM
05/11/09 10:41 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
yea, but it's that whole "COUPLED WITH BYPASS" that gives you a "nice hot start"
why wouldn't the "permanent bypass" give you "continuously nice hot ignition"?
You're helping to prove my point. Back to a "stocker" example, the coil is ......
DESIGNED TO OPERATE on the SAME VOLTAGE whether cranking (10-11v)..... or running through the ballast.
This means that in theory, you should have the SAME HOT SPARK whether cranking / resistor bypassed, or running (charging) through the bypass
When bypassing the resistor, AND USING a coil designed for direct connection to 14v (not 12) you must now DROP that voltage clear down to 10-11V or so for CRANKING.
THAT IS a 28% change in voltage!!!
Quote:
and from reading literatre.......... like MSD, they have coils that are designed to operate on the full 12-14v system without needed the BR--I don't know if that's because they decided to sacrifice start up ability for driving performance (a coil meant for 12-14V that's only getting 7-9, won't fire as hot at start up).
Exactly my point of the "cold dark night" example. When everything is great, well, it's great. It's for those times when it's a little cold and humid, or you've flooded the engine, or the battery is a little low, etc etc, or maybe the engine is a little hot and balky. THAT is when you need that extra kick.
I SAY that unless you are running a CD/ MSD type ignition, that is, you are running points or switching electronic, you will have MUCH better overall start performance by using a system designed for and with a ballast.
I think some of you are confusing the use of a ballast with low performance. Remember the big huge Mallory rectangular coils? Those used TWO ballasts---the original OEM, and an additional one supplied by Mallory--in series. They certainly were not "low performance."
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Re: Eliminating ballast resistor... What coil do I need?
#315178
05/11/09 11:05 PM
05/11/09 11:05 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,941
WI
Dcuda69
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,941
WI
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I think what gets lost here is the fact that not only does the coil need to withstand the additional voltage,so does the switching device! Take a 1 ohm coil,at 9 volts, when the switching device(points,ecu,etc)turns on(pulls coil- to grd)the current flow thru the pri. windings(and the ecu)=9 amps.Same 1 ohm coil at 14 volts,when turned on(coil- to grd.thru the ECU) will flow 14 amps!Remember(on a v-8) the coil has to fire every 90 deg. of crank rotation!Current flow=HEAT!But that heat affects not only the coil but the switching device!!!If you want big spark,switch to a MSD type ign. Big reason the OEM's went to COP,more charge time and more cool down between firing!I wonder if all the failed ECU's are due to wiring issues more than quality control? 
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Re: Eliminating ballast resistor... What coil do I need?
[Re: 383man]
#315180
05/12/09 01:14 AM
05/12/09 01:14 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,576
Sarcoxie, MO, USA
MoPar Jamie
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,576
Sarcoxie, MO, USA
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OK on my lameburn Diplomat STOCK there was NO resitor present at all. I unwrapped the engine harness to make it simple to plug right into the main harness when I converted to electronic. I found the coil wire was spliced directly into constant (not start) 12v hot. I also looked at my D-250 and its the exact same way.
So when I converted it I ran a two-wire ballast connector, one to the switched 12v blue wire and the other to the coil positive. I resisted the ignition box power wires like stock. Coil is the original one to the car.
So, am I going to run into problems down the road?
- MoPar Jamie
1972 Fury III 4dr
1986 D-150 LWB Royal SE
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Re: Eliminating ballast resistor... What coil do I need?
[Re: MoPar Jamie]
#315181
05/12/09 01:39 AM
05/12/09 01:39 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
OK on my lameburn Diplomat STOCK there was NO resitor present at all. I unwrapped the engine harness to make it simple to plug right into the main harness when I converted to electronic. I found the coil wire was spliced directly into constant (not start) 12v hot. I also looked at my D-250 and its the exact same way.
So when I converted it I ran a two-wire ballast connector, one to the switched 12v blue wire and the other to the coil positive. I resisted the ignition box power wires like stock. Coil is the original one to the car.
So, am I going to run into problems down the road?
I'm not familiar with "lameburn" so unless you can post a link to a diagram, don't know.
Ron posted an excellent example of a great running car that so far's I'm concerned, is one way to set things up properly.
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Re: Eliminating ballast resistor... What coil do I need?
[Re: radar]
#315183
05/12/09 10:28 AM
05/12/09 10:28 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
Are you serious or just being funny? I am new to mopars and I know about the lean burn emissions package- tons of extra crap to make you crazy bolted and wired up to the motor...
When I say I'm not familiar with leanburn, I mean I'm not familiar--WITHOUT REFERRING TO A MANUAL--on how or how not the ignition system is wired up.
(Making the statement that "it has tons of extra crap" etc, is something I could have said. that doesn't mean you know how it works, or can itemize wiring points of interest off the top of your head.)
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Re: Eliminating ballast resistor... What coil do I nee
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#315188
05/14/09 04:15 PM
05/14/09 04:15 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,716
Baltimore/Denver
64Post
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,716
Baltimore/Denver
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Quote:
I used the shell of the BR and used the ends of the guts and solderd in a #10 strand wire
put it back in the shell,got a full 12 volts on the 68 dart 
That's what I'm in the process of doing...
But my butter-fingered DA dropped the OE BR last night and I had to find a new one.
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