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Maybe not that bad, but after all these years of use or abuse, they could it be some damaged, so not a guarantee of good working conditions.

Being the clutch kind are easier and cheaper rebuildable, kist are everywhere, and able to make it at home, thats an advantage. Cone kind will need to me machined as stated, not too cheap to make that.

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I like to burn rubber. Alot. As in 100 ft or more through several gears. Out of all of the Sure-Grips I have had, only one was a cone style and it seemed to "fishtail". Maybe it was worn out. I swapped it for a clutch style with the same ratio and now it burns rubber straight as an arrow. That's all I know.

Stan

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Maybe not that bad, but after all these years of use or abuse, they could it be some damaged, so not a guarantee of good working conditions.

Being the clutch kind are easier and cheaper rebuildable, kist are everywhere, and able to make it at home, thats an advantage. Cone kind will need to me machined as stated, not too cheap to make that.

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They have their place but the bad part is when they do slip it's metal on metal which ends up in the oil running through the bearings,seals, ring and pinion

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Actually it's metal to metal every time you turn a corner. I've run the same center section with three different sets of gears over the last 2 years. Haven't noticed any gear / bearing wear or metal in the oil. Now that I've said that, it will probably self destruck the next time I go out!

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Maybe not that bad, but after all these years of use or abuse, they could it be some damaged, so not a guarantee of good working conditions.

Being the clutch kind are easier and cheaper rebuildable, kist are everywhere, and able to make it at home, thats an advantage. Cone kind will need to me machined as stated, not too cheap to make that.

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Actually, I would have gone to a clutch type ( for the rebuildability thing ), but they are not available for the 9 1/4 diff. Per Auburn gear, the check to see if your cone unit is still serviceable is easy ( applies to a 9 1/4 - don't know about others): Jack one tire off the ground. Put a torque wrench on a lug nut on that wheel ( radially out from the wheel center ). Break-away torque for a new unit should be 70 lbs or better. They claim the unit is serviceable down to 20 lbs. Below that, replace. They also suggest 80-90 gear oil only. No synthetic. An additive os ok if you have bad chatter on turns.

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Maybe not that bad, but after all these years of use or abuse, they could it be some damaged, so not a guarantee of good working conditions.

Being the clutch kind are easier and cheaper rebuildable, kist are everywhere, and able to make it at home, thats an advantage. Cone kind will need to me machined as stated, not too cheap to make that.

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Actually, I would have gone to a clutch type ( for the rebuildability thing ), but they are not available for the 9 1/4 diff. Per Auburn gear, the check to see if your cone unit is still serviceable is easy ( applies to a 9 1/4 - don't know about others): Jack one tire off the ground. Put a torque wrench on a lug nut on that wheel ( radially out from the wheel center ). Break-away torque for a new unit should be 70 lbs or better. They claim the unit is serviceable down to 20 lbs. Below that, replace. They also suggest 80-90 gear oil only. No synthetic. An additive os ok if you have bad chatter on turns.

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Clutch types are available forthe 9.25 all the suregrip truck axles are a clutch type LSD. I know because I took one apart, and sold the empty diff with side gears to a kid who was going to rebuild it and put it in his Dakota--I pulled it out because it needed rebuilt and i wanted to go with a detroit true trac

now, if you're talking about an old 9.25 from a car, I don't know if they make one for that specific application (did the spline count change on them?) if so, you could buy one meant for a truck axle, and just get new axles for your older diff

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i have had bad experience with those ones. I have never torn up the clutch type but have torn out 3 or the cone type.
1.was in a stock 318 barracuda. the pin in the middle came out and tore up the ring and pinion gears.
2.was in a 360 dart same thing happened
3. was in another 318 car.

they were all 4 speeds and so that was hard on them but only the 360 car had very much power, high 12's in quarter. i will never run another one of those units. trashed 3 sets of gears with them. i have never broken the clutch type and i have one behind my 440 dart.

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i have had bad experience with those ones. I have never torn up the clutch type but have torn out 3 or the cone type.
1.was in a stock 318 barracuda. the pin in the middle came out and tore up the ring and pinion gears.
2.was in a 360 dart same thing happened
3. was in another 318 car.

they were all 4 speeds and so that was hard on them but only the 360 car had very much power, high 12's in quarter. i will never run another one of those units. trashed 3 sets of gears with them. i have never broken the clutch type and i have one behind my 440 dart.

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The cone sure-grips only have 2 spider gears and they gall onto the center pin forcing it to break the locating pin and making the cross shaft spin in the case wallowing out the case holes. I'd say this is more of an issue than the "self destructing" complaint.

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Or you could buy as good clutch 741 pig in the classified, Northern Cal, shipping may not be that bad.

741'S are stonger than your 12 second car needs.....

It's a 3.91 set, looks new and runs like new.

Allen

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There was an article on how to rebuild one in an issue of High Performance Mopar I think. The interesting thing was that they installed smaller springs inside the origonals to get more apply pressure. I think they used springs from the inside of a 727 trans. I would think that with more pressure, it would slip less and last longer.

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What actually wears the case or the gears?

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I know you can't rebuild them in the conventional sense. But how does their strength and actual traction capability compare to a clutch-type suregrip?

There is a 489 case, 3.91, cone-type suregrip available locally for $300. If I gamble and it works, it could save me $700 or so over getting a rehabbed center section.

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In my opinion the gear-case-yoke is worth close to the asking price. The sure grip is a bonus. Sure its not the better of the 2 but it may hold up along time. I did break the cross pin in one about 7 years ago. 3.55 gear, 28" slicks, 3600# car and 12.50's 1/4 Probably had a couple hundred runs on it b4 it broke

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Neither. Its the sides of the cones that wear. And yes, I have the stainless steel shim kits for rebuilding the 8.75. Is it a replacement for a clutch type? No.... but it is a viable fix for those on a budget.

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