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isoclamp removal #295636
04/21/09 09:02 PM
04/21/09 09:02 PM

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anyone know how to do away with the isoclamps on the rear suspension in an m body? need to know what parts were used, what needs to be modified. thanks.

Re: isoclamp removal #295637
04/21/09 09:44 PM
04/21/09 09:44 PM
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torkrules Offline
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Quote:

anyone know how to do away with the isoclamps on the rear suspension in an m body? need to know what parts were used, what needs to be modified. thanks.




If it's the same as the old B body ones, you need to make a bushing up to fit in the spring perch as the hole is too big. Also, It wouldn't be a bad idea to weld a washer onto the shock plate where the center bolt of the spring goes through as this hole is too large too. This helps keep the plate centered.

Re: isoclamp removal [Re: torkrules] #295638
04/21/09 10:04 PM
04/21/09 10:04 PM

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so what do you put where on this setup?

Re: isoclamp removal #295639
04/21/09 11:08 PM
04/21/09 11:08 PM
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Milwaukee, WI
In_The_Pink Offline
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Quote:

so what do you put where on this setup?




Are you retaining the stock 8-1/4" rearend?

You'll need to use non-Iso Clamp (IC) lower shock plates, since the lower IC plates will be removed.

As suggested above, you also have to account for the larger hole in the IC setup's spring perch due to the bushing which surrounds the IC setup's leaf spring bolt. Take a look at this post for an idea of how to overcome that obstacle: ISO CLAMP REMOVAL

You'll have to decide if you want to retain the upper IC mount/shock plate (i.e., keep the bayonet end shocks) or switch to double eye end shocks and matching lower shock plates.

FWIW, I plan to do this in the near future on my '77 Aspen, but I'm going to retian the upper shock plates and use 8-3/4" shock plates under the leaf springs. My shocks are near new and I need to mount the rear sway bar brackets to the IC upper shock plates, so it makes sense for me. If you have no rear sway bar and want to switch to the double eye end shocks, by all means eliminate the IC upper shock plate.

You'll need new, longer u-bolts, too, which Mancini Racing has for $30 or so.

Don't forget rear ride height will be raised 3/4" or so when the IC bushing is eliminated...or you could fabricate a lowering block/plate to keep the stock height, or go lower as desired.

Re: isoclamp removal [Re: In_The_Pink] #295640
04/21/09 11:16 PM
04/21/09 11:16 PM
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Ridgeland Wi
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Quote:

Quote:

so what do you put where on this setup?




Are you retaining the stock 8-1/4" rearend?

You'll need to use non-Iso Clamp (IC) lower shock plates, since the lower IC plates will be removed.

As suggested above, you also have to account for the larger hole in the IC setup's spring perch due to the bushing which surrounds the IC setup's leaf spring bolt. Take a look at this post for an idea of how to overcome that obstacle: http://www.dippy.org/forum2/index.php/topic,142.0.html

You'll have to decide if you want to retain the upper IC mount/shock plate (i.e., keep the bayonet end shocks) or switch to double eye end shocks and matching lower shock plates.

FWIW, I plan to do this in the near future on my '77 Aspen, but I'm going to retian the upper shock plates and use 8-3/4" shock plates under the leaf springs. My shocks are near new and I need to mount the rear sway bar brackets to the IC upper shock plates, so it makes sense for me. If you have no rear sway bar and want to switch to the double eye end shocks, by all means eliminate the IC upper shock plate.

You'll need new, longer u-bolts, too, which Mancini Racing has for $30 or so.

Don't forget rear ride height will be raised 3/4" or so when the IC bushing is eliminated...or you could fabricate a lowering block/plate to keep the stock height, or go lower as desired.




im just a tad lost. are you using both shock mounts when all said and done? do you have any reference pics of the done set up? are you using the bayonet style shocks still or the double eye? im sorry, i just cant quite visualise this set up.


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Re: isoclamp removal [Re: mopars_1] #295641
04/21/09 11:29 PM
04/21/09 11:29 PM
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Ridgeland Wi
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never mind, i found the page. thanks


1971 Plymouth Duster 340 auto
1937 Plymouth PT50
1969 Dodge Dart Swinger 340 4 speed
2013 Ram laramie 2500 hemi
2008 Harley FLSTSB springer
Re: isoclamp removal [Re: mopars_1] #295642
04/22/09 08:24 AM
04/22/09 08:24 AM

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i have a 7.25 rear end. what vehicles can i get the lower shock plates out of. the guy on dippy.org used modified cop car shock plates and something different for the bottom. he also used dodge dakota leaf springs.

Re: isoclamp removal #295643
04/22/09 08:31 AM
04/22/09 08:31 AM
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Iowa
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On my 82 Cordoba, I just drilled out the spring perches on the 8 3/4 when I was changing rear ends. That was easier than doing away with the isoclamp system.

When I parted out the car I kept the big metal brackets and the rubber isolators. If anyone needs them they can take them off my hands.

Re: isoclamp removal #295644
04/22/09 08:53 AM
04/22/09 08:53 AM
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Mid Missouri
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I'm almost done building an Aspen Drag Car with CalTracs and Monoleafs, and a B-body Dana. However, before I went that route, I used b-body springs (22"fr.section), made my own front spring hanger spacer out of 2x4"rectangular steel tubing, and used b-body shock mounts and shocks. Did away with iso clamp rear spring setup completely. If you use the stock diff, you can modify the pins or perches. Using a B-body diff with offset spring hangers in rear works great.

Re: isoclamp removal [Re: burdar] #295645
04/22/09 09:07 AM
04/22/09 09:07 AM

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how did you drill out the spring perches im not quite sure what you did there? any pics ?

Re: isoclamp removal #295646
04/22/09 09:27 AM
04/22/09 09:27 AM
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Milwaukee, WI
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Quote:

how did you drill out the spring perches im not quite sure what you did there? any pics ?




On the IC setup, the leaf spring bolt (which passes through all four/five leaves, just like a regular rear suspension setup) has some rubber surrounding the bolt, making the hole on the base of the leaf spring perch (which is welded to the axle tube) larger than on a non- IC spring perch. To properly center the spring perch (using your stock IC-setup rearend) on the leaf spring bolt after eliminating the IC setup, you need to make the spring perch hole smaller in diameter, since you removed the rubber around the bolt.

View the first picture HERE to see how a large but was used to 'fill' the hole in the upper IC-system shock plate and decrease its diameter.

Re: isoclamp removal [Re: In_The_Pink] #295647
04/22/09 10:07 AM
04/22/09 10:07 AM
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Iowa
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Quote:

how did you drill out the spring perches im not quite sure what you did there? any pics ?




The 8 3/4 rear end I put in the Cordoba had a small hole in the center of the spring pad . I just took the housing to a machine shop and had them drill the small hole out to 1 5/8" or something like that. The 7 1/4 rear end that was under the Cordoba origonally, had a large hole in the spring pad. I measured the size of that hole and had it duplicated on the other housing. Does that make sence? With the large hole in the 8 3/4 spring pad...it just bolted up to the car like the stock rear end did. It was really very easy.
I just sold the rear end a couple weeks ago or I could take a picture for you.

Re: isoclamp removal [Re: burdar] #295648
04/22/09 10:43 AM
04/22/09 10:43 AM

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oh im keeping the stock rear end for now. not much funding or 8.25's around here

Re: isoclamp removal #295649
04/22/09 11:37 AM
04/22/09 11:37 AM
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Iowa
burdar Offline
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If you are keeping the stock rearend why do you want to do away with the isoclamp system? If you need parts to fix rusted out brakets and things, I have the ones from my Cordoba that I'll give to you. I have no use for them.

Re: isoclamp removal [Re: burdar] #295650
04/22/09 11:50 AM
04/22/09 11:50 AM
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Valencia, España
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the iso clamp assmebly provides a shorter axle pedestals, so if you want to keep rear ride height, change the pedestals or use spacer blocks ( maybe 1" spacer blocks )

beside that, the iso clamps pedestals does have bigged center hole, so if you decide to keep the pedestals and use spacer blocks, will need to fill the center hole guide.

beside that the spring stud carries a bushing to rise up the stud getting all the isolation. will need to be removed and replaced for a shorter one if using spacer block. If replacing higher axle pedestals and not using blocks, you won't have to worry because they have room to fit the higher spring guide stud.

Dunno about lower clamp, because on 73/74 B bodies we can change the lower plate for a 71/72 plate. I have no idea if M bodies have an option like that


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Re: isoclamp removal [Re: NachoRT74] #295651
04/22/09 11:58 AM
04/22/09 11:58 AM

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i want to raise the rear end up a bit thats why im doing this. im going to go to the junkyard to look at a few things. b bodies are hard to find around here in the jy. ill figure something out. i may use the 1/4 inch steel from the reciever hitch i pulled yesterday to make my own brackets.

Re: isoclamp removal #295652
04/22/09 12:08 PM
04/22/09 12:08 PM
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Iowa
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Why don't you just add a leaf to your springs. I think that would be easier than trying to piece together shock mounts and things.

Just add a leaf on eash side and re-use the isoclamp stuff.

Re: isoclamp removal [Re: burdar] #295653
04/22/09 12:11 PM
04/22/09 12:11 PM

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i planned on doing away with it anyways. for adding the leafs do you guys use one of the stock ones or do you buy an aftermarket kit?

Re: isoclamp removal [Re: NachoRT74] #295654
04/22/09 12:27 PM
04/22/09 12:27 PM
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Grand Haven, MI
patrick Offline
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eliminating the iso-clamp setup and retaining the stock 7 1/4" axle is a waste of time. if you want to eliminate it, get an 8 3/4 or 8 1/4 out of a '68-70 B body, spring centering bolt and U bolts for the same, and the associated shock plates. it'll pretty much bolt right up.


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Re: isoclamp removal [Re: patrick] #295655
04/22/09 12:29 PM
04/22/09 12:29 PM

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all the b bodies around here have been crushed for scrap or are in peoples garages.

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