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Re: Need good alignment specs [Re: autoxcuda] #275647
04/05/09 09:17 PM
04/05/09 09:17 PM
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california
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sbcjd Offline
mopar
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california
Would the above alignment specifications you stated be the same for a daily driver with radial tires and no drag strip racing?

Re: Need good alignment specs [Re: sbcjd] #275648
04/05/09 09:36 PM
04/05/09 09:36 PM
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Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
WILD BILL Offline
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Quote:

Would the above alignment specifications you stated be the same for a daily driver with radial tires and no drag strip racing?





I'll set up a daily driver for as much caster as I can get without sacrifcing camber. Camber I like to see at 0 to . 5 deg neg. no more than a 1/2 deg split between camber/caster. Toe I want at .06

Re: Need good alignment specs [Re: sbcjd] #275649
04/05/09 09:46 PM
04/05/09 09:46 PM
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Posts: 27,453
So Cal
autoxcuda Offline
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Quote:

Would the above alignment specifications you stated be the same for a daily driver with radial tires and no drag strip racing?




Yep, I run radial tires and no drag strip action.

I ran that when I daily drove my cuda to work 80 miles round trip to work every day. Alignment done by Bagge & Son (since 1918) on Washington blvd in Culver City. Spec sheet:
Caster: 4.4 postitive (as much possible, I run offset UCA bushings #7103)
Camber: .5 negative
Total Toe: 0.12 ~1/16" toe in

I don't drive the car daily now. About 5,000 miles a year max. So I can get away with a more aggressive alignment
My current setup
Camber 1.5 negative
Caster 4.5 postive
Total Toe: .12 deg in ~1/16 toe in

That is a LOT of negative camber for the street. I don't know if I'd go recommending that. I drive so hard I always wear the outsides first anyway. So maybe I get 30K miles instead of 50K miles out of the tires. That will still take me 6 years to do. Heck, they'll probably rot by then.

Alignment below done by Cars Muffler in Redondo Bch. Not me in picture.

Last edited by autoxcuda; 04/05/09 11:25 PM.
Re: Need good alignment specs [Re: autoxcuda] #275650
04/05/09 10:28 PM
04/05/09 10:28 PM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,312
SoCal
68HemiB Offline
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I'm more than a little late to this particular dance, but I aligned cars for a living in a previous life.

I cannot speak to alignment specifically targeted at the auto-x crowd.

The specifications for Mopar alignment back then tended toward slightly positive camber, and I have not been horribly dissatisfied with 0 to maybe 1/4 degree positive camber to this day. Therefore, you will not find me among those determined for some negative camber action. What I am in favor of is as much balanced, positive caster as possible. Besides getting toe to something reasonable (no more than 1/8" total in), in my mind there is nothing more important than getting the caster really close side-to-side. Anything else is asking for a come-back due to a complaint of pulling.

Offset bushings (installed to maximize positive caster, not positive camber) are some additional help in the direction of positive caster before abandoning stock UCAs in favor of tubular numbers.


Down to just a blue car now.
Re: Need good alignment specs [Re: autoxcuda] #275651
04/05/09 10:36 PM
04/05/09 10:36 PM
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Posts: 1,688
Marlboro, NY, USA
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Rick_Ehrenberg Offline
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I always ALWAYS run some negative camber. The $64 question: How much? There's a whole host of factors, some of which are:

> How aggressively is the car driven? (i.e., canyon and entrance-ramp carver?)

> I assume radials (otherwise you might actually want 0° camber), but the aspect ratio is important, the lower the aspect ratio, the less negative you need

> Roll stiffness

> Tire pressure

> Wheel width to tire section width

I have run as much as 2° negative and STILL worn out the outer part of the tread first. But, then, I am an animal.

For most of my street-cruiser type buddies, I recommend 0.5 to 0.75° negative.

I like lots of positve caster but not more than 2.5 to 3 deg. or so. More is better for road racing as long as there are no REALLY long high-speed straights -- excess caster makes the car pretty spooky at very high speeds. Caster is somehow hard for a lot of guys to conceptualize. Picture a line drawn between the center of the ball joints. If this line is viewed from dead-ahead of the car, you're looking at steering axis inclination (not independently adjiustable). Viewed from the side, this same line is caster.

Rick

Re: Need good alignment specs [Re: 68HemiB] #275652
04/05/09 10:41 PM
04/05/09 10:41 PM
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 15,478
the boonies
aarcuda Offline OP
I Live Here
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Quote:

I'm more than a little late to this particular dance, but I aligned cars for a living in a previous life.

I cannot speak to alignment specifically targeted at the auto-x crowd.

The specifications for Mopar alignment back then tended toward slightly positive camber, and I have not been horribly dissatisfied with 0 to maybe 1/4 degree positive camber to this day. Therefore, you will not find me among those determined for some negative camber action. What I am in favor of is as much balanced, positive caster as possible. Besides getting toe to something reasonable (no more than 1/8" total in), in my mind there is nothing more important than getting the caster really close side-to-side. Anything else is asking for a come-back due to a complaint of pulling.

Offset bushings (installed to maximize positive caster, not positive camber) are some additional help in the direction of positive caster before abandoning stock UCAs in favor of tubular numbers.




as coincidence may have it, i had just checked my 70 service manual and saw they actually called for positive camber (just like you said).

but i can see how negative camber would aid in cornering.

What do you make of the toe numbers i posted? Can I just rotate the tie rod sleeves an equal amount to get it closer to 1/16" or does it need to go back on the rack?

Re: Need good alignment specs [Re: Rick_Ehrenberg] #275653
04/05/09 11:41 PM
04/05/09 11:41 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,453
So Cal
autoxcuda Offline
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Quote:

I have run as much as 2° negative and STILL worn out the outer part of the tread first. But, then, I am an animal.




ANIMAL!!

Present and attending.



This darn mountain of gravel got in my way last time at the track. Picked out rocks stuck between my rim and tire for a month.







Quote:

I like lots of positive caster but not more than 2.5 to 3 deg. or so. More is better for road racing as long as there are no REALLY long high-speed straights -- excess caster makes the car pretty spooky at very high speeds. Caster is somehow hard for a lot of guys to conceptualize. Picture a line drawn between the center of the ball joints. If this line is viewed from dead-ahead of the car, you're looking at steering axis inclination (not independently adjustable). Viewed from the side, this same line is caster.

Rick




I gave up like 5.5 degrees for 4.5 degree of caster to get that 1.5 negative camber for my last alignment. Just because I thought the benefits were greater.

Rich, what is going on at high speeds that over 3 degrees caster affects the car?? Is assume that's 110 mph plus.

I know from our circle track cars that caster will change the scale readings and weigh bias in a corner when you are turning. You can see that when you turn a car and the fenders go up and down.

Books say caster is only needed for production type heavy sedans. Real open wheel racecars don't run much or any.

Last edited by autoxcuda; 04/06/09 12:06 AM.
Re: Need good alignment specs [Re: aarcuda] #275654
04/06/09 04:14 PM
04/06/09 04:14 PM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,312
SoCal
68HemiB Offline
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Quote:

What do you make of the toe numbers i posted? Can I just rotate the tie rod sleeves an equal amount to get it closer to 1/16" or does it need to go back on the rack?




I take your posted toe numbers to be a total of 1/4" in, which is a little bit too much IMO. If it were my car, I would seek maybe half that. While far from the "right" way to do it, one can mess with the toe setting at home. If you are happy with the centering of your steering wheel, any adjustments you do should be done equally to each side's sleeve.

Mark a consistent spot on the tread at a consistent height up from the floor on the front and rear of each tire. Measure where you are now first, and then adjust to about a half of what it is now. Note that the front reading should be and should remain slightly less than across the rear. The goal is to achieve ZERO toe at speed, and setting it slightly IN statically will account for the slight compression/shifting of the steering linkage due to a tendency of the wheels to toe OUT when moving.


Down to just a blue car now.
Re: Need good alignment specs*** UPDATE*** [Re: aarcuda] #275655
04/06/09 07:52 PM
04/06/09 07:52 PM
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USA
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rftroy Offline
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With all these very high caster numbers, I hope you guys are talking about power steering. The original questioner didn't mention power or manual, but you sure don't want +5 deg caster with manual steering.

I set mine at 0 to +1 for manual. Above (and at) +1, you can really feel the difference and steering gets hard.

Bob


AAR 4-speed 3.91, Tor-Red;
70 440 6 pack Roadrunner 4-speed 3.54, Plum Crazy;
68 Formula S conv 383 4-speed 3.23, Electric Blue;
69 Barracuda conv Slant 6 OD4 2.94, 71 B5 Blue;
78 Lil' Red Truck, Red;
70 Challenger S/E. 505 6 pack, Passon 5-speed, 3.55, B7 Blue
Re: Need good alignment specs*** UPDATE*** [Re: rftroy] #275656
04/06/09 09:20 PM
04/06/09 09:20 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,688
Marlboro, NY, USA
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Rick_Ehrenberg Offline
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Quote:

With all these very high caster numbers, I hope you guys are talking about power steering. The original questioner didn't mention power or manual, but you sure don't want +5 deg caster with manual steering.




...yeah, fast ratio manual and sticky tires. One of the only real forms of exercise I get (the others are even more fun) ;->

+5° caster is crazy. Part of the problem with super-high caster settings is that the vehicle tilts significantly during the caster sweep, actually distorting the camber measurement. It can be almost impossible to prevent a lead (pull) with caster set that high.

Rick

Re: Need good alignment specs*** UPDATE*** [Re: rftroy] #275657
04/06/09 09:21 PM
04/06/09 09:21 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,453
So Cal
autoxcuda Offline
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Quote:

With all these very high caster numbers, I hope you guys are talking about power steering. The original questioner didn't mention power or manual, but you sure don't want +5 deg caster with manual steering.

I set mine at 0 to +1 for manual. Above (and at) +1, you can really feel the difference and steering gets hard.

Bob




Very true. Also the tire width when running manual steering makes a big difference in low speed effort. As does front tire pressure.

But also don't forget we live in the city. I noticed the difference just moving from West LA to Simi Valley. All the parking spaces are bigger, never really have to paralell park much. Just more space out there.

Now when I lived in Iowa... heck I'd forget how to park a car all together when I came back here on college breaks.

Last edited by autoxcuda; 04/06/09 09:26 PM.
Re: Need good alignment specs*** UPDATE*** [Re: autoxcuda] #275658
04/06/09 10:20 PM
04/06/09 10:20 PM
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 15,478
the boonies
aarcuda Offline OP
I Live Here
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yes i have power steering. i dont really need any more firmness with my steering. the firm feel stage three is plenty

Re: Need good alignment specs*** UPDATE*** [Re: aarcuda] #275659
04/07/09 08:45 AM
04/07/09 08:45 AM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,560
Downtown Roebuck Ont
Twostick Offline
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Too much caster can cause a violent shake after hitting a big bump at speed ie railroad tracks or potholes. 5 deg might work on a tabletop smooth track but I wouldn't want it on the street.

Kevin

Re: Need good alignment specs*** UPDATE*** [Re: Twostick] #275660
04/07/09 10:58 PM
04/07/09 10:58 PM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 9,312
SoCal
68HemiB Offline
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Quote:

Too much caster can cause a violent shake after hitting a big bump at speed ie railroad tracks or potholes. 5 deg might work on a tabletop smooth track but I wouldn't want it on the street.

Kevin




Respectfully, I suggest that this symptom in a car has nothing to do with aggressive caster, and everything to do with the integrity and condition of the front suspension. For high caster numbers, I suggest one look up the factory alignment specs on a 1973 era Monte Carlo. That model exhibited none of the symptoms you attribute to positive caster.

When I was lobbying for the merits of positive caster, it was in the framework of the practical numbers one can get from a stock or near-stock Mopar front end, and in a car with power steering.

In addition to the lack of wandering and return-to-center benefits of positive caster, I also see it as a mechanism to obtain beneficial camber in turns. As I have said before, I am not in the camp of negative static camber fans (because I don't throw my pigs around corners quickly very often). However, positive caster will result in a shift toward negative camber on the outboard side and toward positive camber on the inboard side in a turn. This I find to be something desirable.


Down to just a blue car now.
Re: Need good alignment specs*** UPDATE*** [Re: 68HemiB] #275661
04/08/09 12:33 PM
04/08/09 12:33 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 279
pgh pa
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captaindodge Offline
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That is a great description of how front end geometry works. Wish you could align my car.

Re: Need good alignment specs [Re: Rick_Ehrenberg] #275662
07/12/09 10:05 AM
07/12/09 10:05 AM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1 Offline
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Quote:

I always ALWAYS run some negative camber. The $64 question: How much? There's a whole host of factors, some of which are:

> How aggressively is the car driven? (i.e., canyon and entrance-ramp carver?)

> I assume radials (otherwise you might actually want 0° camber), but the aspect ratio is important, the lower the aspect ratio, the less negative you need

> Roll stiffness

> Tire pressure

> Wheel width to tire section width

I have run as much as 2° negative and STILL worn out the outer part of the tread first. But, then, I am an animal.

For most of my street-cruiser type buddies, I recommend 0.5 to 0.75° negative.

I like lots of positve caster but not more than 2.5 to 3 deg. or so. More is better for road racing as long as there are no REALLY long high-speed straights -- excess caster makes the car pretty spooky at very high speeds. Caster is somehow hard for a lot of guys to conceptualize. Picture a line drawn between the center of the ball joints. If this line is viewed from dead-ahead of the car, you're looking at steering axis inclination (not independently adjiustable). Viewed from the side, this same line is caster.

Rick




Great read, thanks Rick.

Re: Need good alignment specs*** UPDATE*** [Re: Twostick] #275663
07/12/09 07:40 PM
07/12/09 07:40 PM
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,516
Santa Cruz, California
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Lefty Offline
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Quote:

Too much caster can cause a violent shake after hitting a big bump at speed ie railroad tracks or potholes. 5 deg might work on a tabletop smooth track but I wouldn't want it on the street.

Kevin




I've never heard of that. On 94+ Dodge 4x4 trucks it's the other way around. Not enough positive caster causes death wobble.

Re: Need good alignment specs*** UPDATE*** [Re: Twostick] #275664
07/12/09 08:37 PM
07/12/09 08:37 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,759
So Cal
HealthServices Offline
Why would you even post that?
HealthServices  Offline
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Quote:

Too much caster can cause a violent shake after hitting a big bump at speed ie railroad tracks or potholes. 5 deg might work on a tabletop smooth track but I wouldn't want it on the street.

Kevin




That's strange mercedes all have 5-7 degrees of caster. Mercedes owners are some of the pickest drivers in the world. Why would Mercedes do something so dumb?





But I will say that too much can make it very hard to adjust camber and toe. To the point you have to adjust them at the same time, if you change one angle, it tends to change the other specs at the same time. Then again it could just the way the mercedes has the mounting points on upper and lower control arms.


Allen Here's a novel idea, let's not throw a bunch of parts at the car hoping it will fix the problem and instead spend a little time diagnosing it first. Life was a little easier when I was just a wrench.
Re: Need good alignment specs*** UPDATE*** [Re: HealthServices] #275665
07/13/09 12:40 PM
07/13/09 12:40 PM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,161
Los Angeles, CA
JF_Moparts Offline
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Los Angeles, CA
This is a great thread and I hope it gets archived.

Here's a few questions:

I just took my manual steering 71 RR to an alighnment shop and they couldn't get the caster/camber settings anywhere near the factory recommended settings. Eventually they did the toe-in and didn't charge me for the effort. The suspension was rebuilt in 1991, but since then only 3000 miles have been put on the car. Could I be looking at misaligned eccentric cam mountings?

Also, with laser alignment equipment that mounts reflectors on the wheels, is there an easy way to access the eccentric cams withthe wheels on? I was in the shop, helping the guys locate and turn the cam bolts, and we had a heck of a time doing it. (Of course it didn't help that the shop doesn't get many vintage mopars and had mostly metric tools. I can forgive the first, but not the second.)

I have an appt to get my power steering 71 Sat aligned this afternoon, and I was planning on going with these specs:

Camber: -0.5
Caster: +3.0
Toe: 1/16

One more question: Does it ever make sense to have different camber settings for left and right? Such as:
Left: -0.7
Right: -0.5

Thanks.

Jim

Re: Need good alignment specs*** UPDATE*** [Re: JF_Moparts] #275666
07/13/09 01:03 PM
07/13/09 01:03 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1 Offline
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I reached around the tire with it on, to access the cam bolts. I like your specs, do you have stock upper arms? If so, you might have trouble getting 3+ caster.

Mostly metric tools?

Last edited by Challenger 1; 07/13/09 01:05 PM.
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