thru it I was thinking a P/V collision & they said it was from too thin of pushrods.

also what we were thinking.

those must be some stout springs

Video said wrong tubing thickness. Ordered .080" wall, got .065" instead. Hope that takes care of it.

Kinda hard to tell from that video but to me it appears your rocker adjusters are screwed way to far in. In other words I think you need longer pushrods to hopefully gets your rocker geometry right. Most rocker manufacturers only want one to two turns out for pushrod oiling. A stiffer pushrod my make you think its fixed but you may find the next week link down the road.

Which brand pushrods did you buy?
I have bent pushrods like that when installing the rocker arms and shaft before by catching a pushrod cup on the pushrod on the side of a adjuster before I saw it caught
I now use a stiff thin wire or the oil dip stick on the intake side of the rocker arm pedestals to hold all the pushrods on the side I'm working on to make them stay up away from the heads so the rocker arm adjusters will fit into them as I tighten the rocker arm shafts
IHTHs
As far as your pushrod choice I like and use Manton series 3 3/8x.120 wall on most of my roller cam motors for bracket racing and on my half way serious street and strip motors. I saw a 8HP and a 300 RPM peak HP increase gain going from Smith Bros. 3/8 x .083 wall (they were suppose to be .120 wall to start with that I had ordered and paid for ) to a set of Manton 3/8x.120 wall with no other changes on a DTS engine dyno several years back One of those Smith Bros. pushrods had bent and then broke into two parts taking out the pushrod next to it and breaking the top off of the Crower Ultra solid roller lifter allowing that lifter to end up in the lifter valley like yours did and then that broken half pushrod dropped into the bushed lifter bore gauging it and gauging the cam lobe also
On the roller cam motors that I build and race that have over 700 Lbs. pressure at max lift I now use Manton 7/16x.095 wall series five pushrods
I have use the Manton single tapered 7/16 to 3/8 with .147 wall but I was told by Terry Manton before he died that he didn't think I really needed that serious of pushrods for a 440 motor that had 875 Lbs. pressure at max lift spinning the motor to 7500 RPM or so, not above 8500 RPM I'm sure he was correct

The first thing I noticed were the Harlan Sharp rockers and lash caps. That tells me the geometry is wrong, just like it always is. Lash caps don't fix anything.

I was going to say don't buy pushrods yet and to call Mike at B3 and get his geometry correction kit but it was too late. They'd already bought pushrods.

Either HS is stupid or lying. You can't be in business that long and continually tell people if the geometry is junk to just add a lash cap. It's either that or they just don't give a [censored].

To the OP...your geometry is WRONG. I know you don't want to hear it, but maybe someone else will read this thread and learn from it. I say stop what you are doing, call Mike at B3 racing engines, get his geometry correction kit, install it and THEN measure your pushrod length. The adjuster should protrude out of the bottom of the rocker 9/32 of an inch. Correct the geometry and put the adjusters where they go (with lash) and then measure for pushrods.

Even at .080 wall that's a long pushrod to be that small and thin.

I would checkout the "straub" utube vid on rocker geometry/pushrod length. Mike at B3 racing & others say it is the absolute right way to get all this dead on. type in rocker geometry then find straubs vid

the loss of oil pressure is why I have the lifter bores bushed in my engines, just because of the fact of loosing a pushrod and popping a lifter out of the bore/bores.

Why do you not like lash caps?
I use them to prevent the rocker arm tips from flattening out the valve stem tops out with high spring pressures and high RPM camshafts with solid lifters
As far as perfect rocker arm contact pattern to the valve stems back when Mopar had the drag race seminars prior to going bankrupt in 1980 they recommended the rocker arm contact pattern on the valve stem should start on the inner third of the valve stem and be in the middle of the valve stem at mid lift and on the outer third of the stem at max lift regardless of which Mopar V8 motor with single shaft rocker arms systems on them.
I shoot for right at .030 width on the valve stem to rocker arm roller tips Not zero width
That was before the Magnum SB motors came out and before anyone was making and selling the pair shaft rocker arm systems used today on the better high RPM valve train motors made today

I've run 340 on the seat with 5/16 stem valves and never flattened a valve tip. Unless you are buying valves that you cut to length. Then you have to use a lash cap.

A lash cap is either a band aid or an evil requirement. Just something else to fall off in the engine when [censored] goes sideways.

And you can never make me believe that adding stem length to correct geometry is he right way to do it. Unless the valve is too short to begin with. Then you buy the correct length valve.

thanks john. we read what you are saying about the 2 threads max and thats where we set them at. we are going to go over some things just to be sure. thanks again

will check it out thank you

we didn't use the lash caps to correct geometry. checked push rod length and wipe pattern with lash caps on. use lash caps so valve stems don't get beat up. thank you for your input we are going to double check our geometry.

Get that thing back together and kick some Chevy and Ford butt.

roger that !!!

I agree to that boy hey we missed you down at Irwindale this past weekend..

yeah was bummed we couldn't make it but had a family arrangement we had to attend !