Quote:

---

Ok another dumb question.

After I cut the tapered end off, which way do i extend the arm. Do I go straight out (red) or continue at the same angle (blue)

---

Are those the wheels and tires your going to run,
if so go with the red line

Quote:

---

When re-welding, you need to continue the existing line from the center of the ball joint, otherwise your Ackerman will be off. And those ball joints are not cast iron, they are cast steel (and may be actaully forged, but that I don't know).

---

I disagree with you on the continue the same line
for the steering arm.... the tie rod needs to end
up at the same length as the lower control arm....
if he continues at the same angle(blue line) the
tie rod will end up being shorter than the LCA
(different arc's)

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

When re-welding, you need to continue the existing line from the center of the ball joint, otherwise your Ackerman will be off. And those ball joints are not cast iron, they are cast steel (and may be actaully forged, but that I don't know).

---

I disagree with you on the continue the same line
for the steering arm.... the tie rod needs to end
up at the same length as the lower control arm....
if he continues at the same angle(blue line) the
tie rod will end up being shorter than the LCA
(different arc's)

---

Oh boy, everything was going so smoothly

Now we have disagreement, I'm not doubting you MR P but I'd like a tie breaker on this one. Just so I don't have to do this again.

You explanation makes sense to me Mr P.

Quote:

---

If i extended it at an angle steering would also become a problem it would only turn so far.

If you extend it straight out you lose nothing.









By extending the steering arms straight out, You Will lose something, that would be the Turning radius, witch isnt so great to start with on a rack swap.

That happend to be one of my first fixs after my first install. "Move the rack back"

But if you are going to mount the rack where it is. I'll give you your Tie breaker. Extend the arm forward so as not mess with the overall tierod length.

I wouldnt Weld it first either. I would Bolt in a test extension so that you would have another Adjustment point, in/out on your steering arm when plotting your Bump steer and Ackerman like Raff suggested you Do!

Then when you get those adjustments as good as they are going to get. Then you can weld your extensions on solid.


Another tip is to get your Caster dialed in first. As caster adjustments will move the outer tierod connection point at the steering arm up and down a significant amount. If your steering arm is extended by 2",s its extended movement is even worse.

This effects the parallel relationship between the tierod and the lower control arm mike

Quote:

---

Your Rack is going to have to move back to take your almost maxed out inner tierod angle away. Look at your pic #4 When you turn your steering sharp left, look at the direction the outer steering arm takes.

It will swing to the rear of the car and if the rack arm is maxed out it will bend itself.

I admire what your doing but you need to put down the welder and do some more study. I dont have this rack thing down 100% myself.

Dont be like me and end up having to reposition your Rack 4 times. www.heidts.com and www.lonacreracing.com has some good info on positionening a rack.

With the A bodys you cant really get the rack exactly were it needs to be. So at best its a comprimise IMO The rack needs to be further Up and Back then you have it. But you see the problems with that no doubt. mike

---

Just a bump for you, to help connect some info. mike

Quote:

---

Ok. I looked at it and looked at it measured and measured. I moved the engine up about .750 and the rack down about .625 and I was able to move the rack back. Now it is straight across with the steering arms and level with the steering arms. Now I have to mock the rest of it up and see if it works.

The inner tie rods are 2" below the LCA pivot point but they are dead on in line

---

You would be better off to move the rack forward
and move it up the 2". With the rack 2" lower as you
go into jounce it will make you go toe out. If the
tie rods angle rearward its not TOO bad as long as
you can get a good turning radius, the one thing that
occurs is the 2 tires turn at a different rate, not
all that bad on a drag car but would wear tires on
a street car. But on a drag car as soon as you let
off the gas on the top end the car noses over and the
toe would go outward... not good. Since your moving
the steering arm, lower it, more to match up with the rack
EDIT
I just re read your post and see you said LCA pivot,
the closer you get to that pivot point the less
toe change you see... or you make the tie rod the
same length as the LCA and move the inner tie rod
pivot
but you will see a slight different radius between
the two

Quote:

---

EDIT
I just re read your post and see you said LCA pivot,
the closer you get to that pivot point the less
toe change you see... or you make the tie rod the
same length as the LCA and move the inner tie rod
pivot
but you will see a slight different radius between
the two

---

Quote:

---

A new system is probably out of the question right now.

I think i have an idea what you are going to say though.....

Strut System right?

EDIT

I would although think about it for the future. Maybe a project for next winter. Money is a little short right now and I would like to get my car going if not to the strip at least on the road so I can enjoy it.

---

No I was thinking just a steering system, where your
rack arms would hook to a pair of pivot arms and
the other ends of the pivot arms would hook to your
tie rods... I wish I knew how to draw on this puter