Am I looking at something wrong or is your car a front steer. I thought all a.b.c& e bodies where rear steer?

Well I decided to take everything out but the back two corners of the K frame that hold the torsion bars and control arms. They are boxed in but need some TLC for cosmetics

Made the new K frame today. I'm thinking of running the torque bars like yours Fred, with the heims on both ends or put the stock ones back in cut and rethread and see where they can mount with a heim.

I took some pics. I tried to get one to show the relation of the LCA pivot point to the new frame.

I looked at your pics Fred. I can't tell from the pics if the rack is straight across(not in front of the steering arms) I can see the tie rods are pretty much level.

You inner tie rod must be a little lower than LCA pivot point? If you look in the pic I took you can see the LCA pivot point is about 2" below the frame rail. The square tube is 2x3.

I see some color bands on your steering arms, where they bent out toward the tire?

I just want to make sure we're on the same page.

I know looking from the front of the car the tie rods are straight across. Looking from the engine compartment down is where I'm wondering if it's straight across.

Thanks for your time Fred it's greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys. I'm learning a lot. This is good stuff!

Dodgeman did you make those frame rails or did you some like S&W???

Fred, can you also get a pic looking down on your steering arms.

Also from A body to B body steering arms is one longer? Also does one curve upward and curve downward?

I can get disc brakes off of a 75 volare from the junk yard for $80. Is this a good deal? This includes rotors, calipers, spindles. Not sure if the upperarms will exchange?

The K frame is done.

I have the rack mocked up in place, it's a tight fit. There are a few problems.

The inner tie rods are almost maxed out to be inline with the steering arms. I can raise the engine up about .750 lower the rack .500 and I'd be below the oil pan then and be able to move the rack back 4.000, that will bring the tie rods more straight across. If I do that the LCA pivot will be about 4.500 above the inner tie rods. I'll have to bring the ride up a bit to make the tie rods level horizontally.

Here's some pics. Please feel free to let me know what you think.

You won't be able to turn very sharp. The rack is so far foward the tie rod and lowerball joint will go past center when you turn sharp and you'll have to get out and kick the tire back straight.

Give me a few min. I'll put up some pics of mine.

Here are some of mine

Would it be possible to extend the steering arms out 2 inches or so to meet the rack?

Your Rack is going to have to move back to take your almost maxed out inner tierod angle away. Look at your pic #4 When you turn your steering sharp left, look at the direction the outer steering arm takes.

It will swing to the rear of the car and if the rack arm is maxed out it will bend itself.

I admire what your doing but you need to put down the welder and do some more study. I dont have this rack thing down 100% myself.

Dont be like me and end up having to reposition your Rack 4 times. www.heidts.com and www.lonacreracing.com has some good info on positionening a rack.

With the A bodys you cant really get the rack exactly were it needs to be. So at best its a comprimise IMO The rack needs to be further Up and Back then you have it. But you see the problems with that no doubt. mike

Lengthen the steering arms 2", it wont hurt a thing
and it actually helps, you dont want a fast reacting
steering on the dragstrip. I had to lengthen mine on
my last chassis