So I removed an Ignitor II ignition module and Flamethrower II coil from a running 383 and installed it in my 440 Charger. It fired on a few cylinders, then no spark.

I should add that it ran a few months ago with a factory electronic ignition, then a no spark condition appeared. The starter is on a separate switch also. I removed the ballast resistor when I put in the Pertronix. The module mounting plate is well grounded.

1. There is 11.8 volts at the coil + with the key on. When cranking, it goes to -0.14 volts. It should be at least 8 volts when cranking. Why would this happen?

2. When I run a wire from the battery + to the red wire from the Ignitor, I still get no spark. Does this mean the module is junk?

TIA

with it in run, not start, bypass the starter relay and see if you get spark.

if you had this condition before with the old ignition system, I am willing to bet it is the car not the new system first.

might still be, but I would want other checks first.

sounds like the Ignitor ran fine on the 383 & the ignitor & the electronic ign both has issues on the 440 so the wiring issue is there. I would confirm all the connections/terminals as the ignitor/coil would need to be fed 9+ volts in crank/run. Grab your meter & a helper to hold the key & you can pull the yellow wire off of the starter relay to disable the starter for your testing then when you find/fix the poor connection plug it back in & see if it starts/check cranking voltages as needed. EDIT 9+ voltage in "crank" & close to charging voltage in "run" (13+).

No volts when cranking means the IGN2 circuit (the brown wire) is dead; check the firewall bulkhead connector.

The bulkhead connector is already bypassed.

I found a bad connection and now get 9.5V cranking. Still no spark which is no surprise as I don't use the start position on the ignition switch. I just turn the key to run and hit the starter button. I suspect the Pertronix unit is cooked but apparently there is no way to bench test it.

1. Connect a jumper wire from the Ignitor Plate to battery ground.
2. Connect the Red wire from the Ignitor to the battery positive terminal along with the red lead from a volt meter.
3. Attach the Black wire form the Ignitor to the black lead of the voltmeter.
4. Move or rotate the magnet sleeve in front of the Ignitor Module, the voltmeter should vary from battery voltage to 0 volts and back.
5. If it does not, then you possibly have a burned out Power Transistor or a failed Hall cell.

If the key is left in the run position for several minutes it's possible to burn up the Hall cell and create a no start condition. Last time I checked, Pertronix doesn't give the exact length of time required to toast the cell.

You should have a full 12v at the coil with the key briefly in the run position to verify the voltage.

The Ignitor II is not harmed by leaving the key on, although I don't do that.

Pertronix tech support confirmed that my module is toast.

Thanks