Your shock requirements depend on your current situation. If you are a bracket racer with a 13.0 car that dead gooks every time with stock shocks drilled to let the oil out, why spend any money? You don't need to! But if you plan to eventually eun low nines and the cage just came from the chassis builder and you are building an 800 hp motor , now you REALLY need to plan. A faster car can pull the front up high and need a very good double adjustable shock to control the landing. Other things are rear suspension. The more leverage (SSsprings are very high, 20 inch from axle to front of spring) you will need a very good shock
*f you get into the low 11s or faster. Do the math. I have a 11.17 SLR with 800 ft lbs of torque, which works out to about 16000 lbs! Of torque on the axles at the hit. I need a VERY STOUT shock to control that with a 30 inch ladderbar.

You might be able to lower those wheelstands with front end travel limiters. But be sure and use some form of soft stops. I use rubber from old bayonette shocks. Softens the transition and lowers the chance hitting a hard stop will create spin.

They have all my data and are building to suit.... tried a bit longer, but no-go. 3.25” should be here Friday

I don't Limit the travel at all. We control the front end with rebound adjustment.
Doug

I am sorta in the same boat as I am a very low buck street/strip car owner. And that's just how things ended up in my life when I got divorced after 25 years of marriage and then had to retire on disability. I was asked by one guy what my rear shock settings are and I told him they have no settings. They are the older MP longer extending shocks with no adjustments. And my front shocks are just the CE 90/10's. I just run SS springs and stock suspension on the rest of my car. But I use what fits my budget and what worked in the 70's when I did bracket race. Sure adjustable shocks should help my car but its run 10.70's at almost 125 with a 1.50 sixty and I can race in NSS and have a lot of fun just foot braking. But honestly if I had the money for the best shocks out there and went to Cal Tracs how much faster would I really go ? I would guess a tenth or two at the most which just is not in my budget to spend the money on great shocks for that little bit. If I could afford to race a lot and wanted all the performance I could get then heck yea I would have good adjustable shocks on my car. But I have to make the best of what I have as I am sure many low budget guys also do. Basically my car is an old school street car that I drive a lot on the street and have a lot of fun with it and race it about once a year or maybe twice some years. I have had guys tell me how my car will go much faster if I get rid of the Accel Coil I use and go to all MSD ign and so on. I asked him why and he says because my coil is 30 year old technology ? LoL. I said yea and it still works. By far using the best shocks they make today will make a difference but at the price of the real good ones they are not in everyone's budget for sure. Ron

I wouldn't skimp on shocks. I assume you are having traction issues or are planning to run faster so in either case I'd spend the money and get good Dual Adjustable shocks on all fours.

Viking seems to be the pick for a good shock at a good price. I went with Afco's with Mencer valving because of their reputation and support (their techs provide support even on weekends). I now have a car that hooks in a car wash and have no concerns with them being able to handle anything I throw at them in the future.

I know there’s been a lot talk about DA Viking shocks but has anyone used strange? I’m looking at shocks myself right now and came across them. Not much talk about them so wondering if there any good.

I bought a set of speed sensing Koni SPA for my old Duster that ran low tens on pump gas weighing 3450 lbs., they flat worked very well
That car was built with a set of single adjustable Strange coil over with ladder bars, I ended up changing them to Strange double adjustable later