Good Afternoon Everyone,

This one has me kind of stumped.

I just put a rebuilt 440 into a 69 Charger (automatic).I am
not getting any pop out of the engine.....

New plugs, wires, coil, ballast resistor.

I set the timing to 5 before TDC. I have great spark at the
#1 Spark Plug (I have one of those inline spark testers) and
it lights up great.

I have tried both starting fluid and gas down the carb. Nothing.

Checked compression and all cylinders are good. Verified all cylinders are firing.

It turns over well, am using a hi torque mini starter. Kind of slow,
but not as bad as my Cuda.

It has some kind of weird dual point electronic distributor. Never seen anything like it. Again, I have really good spark, so I'm thinking that is not the issue?

I have tried bypassing the ballast resistor, no change.

Any ideas? I'm thinking about changing out the distributor, but really want to keep it if possible.

Thanks!
Jim

Are you sure you don't have the distributer 180* out. Remember TDC comes up twice in a firing sequence.

Is the distributor 180* out? Put the crank at 10-12* BTC No.1 and confirm the rotor is coming up on the contact for the No.1 wire.

If it isn't, the distributor or intermediate shaft may incorrectly installed.

I'm using a timing light, and it is dead on 5 before TDC. Should be correct?

Update - it is a regular dual point distributor. There is a black and red wire coming out of the distributor, both going to the negative side of the coil. Is this correct?

Thanks,
Jim

I traced the red and black wires back into the distributor. The red wire goes to one set of points, the black wire goes to the other set. Both go to the negative side of the coil....


Thanks,
Jim

Jim are you sayin it sparks at the plugs when you crank it with the key but it will not fire off? Is this a new cam breakin? I would set it at 15 BTDC & as said confirm you are on the #1 compression stroke. also get the dist right (not my area). EDIT Yes the points ground the neg coil pri terminal tho not sure why there are 2 wires but others will advise. MORE EDIT starting with the housing turned CCW, then go back CW & first both points will be closed (charging the coil) then one set will open then the 2nd set will open & at that exact point it will fire so with the dampener at 15 turn the housing back till the 2nd set opens & lock it down at that point & also check if the rotor is under or near under the #1 dist cap terminal (at the trailing (CCW) edge of the cap terminal is fine with vacuum adv cuz rotor phasing will shift it back CW) & if the rotor is under a plug wire other than the #1 plug wire either reroute the wires or lift/move the intergear & maintaining the OE pattern is the best. You might just reroute the wires till we get this puppy going but if the intergear is out for preoiling this is a good time to move it.

Most electronic dual points are a conversion and usually the firing order will be at least one cylinder off.Turn the distributor one way or the other and see what happens.

So, it turns out the dampner has two marks 180 out from each other. I turned the distributor 180 and now it backfires out the back but still won't run. But, it feels like I am getting closer....

Thanks,
Jim

If you are still trying to start it, stop before you do more damage. Fumes from fuel can/will build up in the crankcase & can blow gaskets out or valve covers clean off. That happened right in my face. Sludge all over me.
Figure out the issue.
Start from square one. Ensure intermediate shaft is installed properly. Even if it means removing the left side valve cover the watch the #1 intake valve close. intermediate shaft should be parallel to crankshaft centerline @ tdc. Then reinstall the distributor. Ensure firing order is correct on cap and at plugs.
Ensure you have fuel to carb. No ether!
If everything is correct should fire instantly.

Intermediate shaft position doesn't mean matter as long as the dist cap is wired with the #1 wire over the rotor tip when the piston on #1 cylinder at tdc. #1 wire can be on any terminal as long as the rotor is pointed to it at TDC.

50-50 chance. Each cylinder fires every other crank revolution. Pull #1 spark plug. Put your finger in the plug hole. Turn engine until compression blows past your finger. Should be approaching tdc. Turn engine to 10 deg btdc. Now you can check to see if the rotor is pointing towards #1 plug wire. If it is pointing the opposite way it is 180 out.

That is not the factory wire but it will work exactly the same.

Who rebuilt the engine? Any chance the cam is way off time?

Is your garage heated? Does your choke work? It's been a bit cold.

If the ignition timing is good and you have a mini starter it should spin over pretty fast. Weeeeee not ert-ert-ert-ert. Could be a low battery or less likely a bad starter.

Fixed

This is why I typically don't reply. I gave very accurate information & somebody has to be smarter than the next guy. I'm sorry I replied.

Excuse me for explaining there is more than one way to do something.

OK, took everyone's advice and started from scratch.

Brought the #1 cylinder up on the compression stroke to TDC.
Lined up the distributor to #1 Cylinder.
Confirmed distributor rotation is counter clockwise.
Confirmed firing order.
Changed the coil just in case it was not hot enough.
Checked timing with timing light, set to 5 before TDC.
Confirmed all cylinders are firing.
Confirmed I am getting gas to the cylinders (through the carb now).

Still nothing. The only thing I haven't changed are the plugs.
They were new when I installed the engine a few weeks ago.

I am at a loss, not even a pop...

Jim

Pull the plugs,if the cylinders are flooded it will never run !

Yep, doing that now, and replacing all the plugs.

Thinking about upgrading to a Proform Electronic Ignition....

Thanks,
Jim

I'd set the plug gaps to .035"

They are, thanks!!