What front shocks are you running? A body small block 10.60 cars. Think my car could use some help. Reasonably priced if possible.

. Double adjustable Vikings are going to be hard to beat in my opinion.

I have an A body running 10.50s with lakewood 90/10s. They work well and drive well on the street but some double adjustable vikings are on my want list for this season.

I have been as fast as 10.10 with comp 90/10's and ranchos on the rear.
I am sure a better shock all around would help for sure

My 11.3’s Street / Strip car is a little different animal than yours, but I’m in Calvert shocks all the way around (90/10’s up front). They made a big difference in how the car left over the previous C/E shocks. If your willing to pay for Vikings you’d have adjustability to find the optimum setting for your combo. Would they pay off in ET over non adjustable 90/10’s??..... only your $$$ can answer that.

Just curious, but why Vikings? Can Vikings be rebuilt/ revalved when the time comes?

.. because a pair of double adjustable Viking shocks for 400$ will probably do the job.. I ran them on my car with great success. I recently switched to menscer a great shock but $500 each.. pick your poison.. but don't tell me a single adjustable is as good as a double

100% FACT. Why anyone would ever argue for a single adjustable shock is beyond me. But to argue that a 90/10 shock is anything but a museum piece is just crazy.

Would you buy a carb or EFI that could only be tuned either rich, richer, richest? Nope. But I'll buy a shock that is that worthless.

Makes no sense to me.

I'm not arguing about single vs. double. I'm just wondering about the Viking shocks. I was told them can not be revalved. Randy Mans at Fastshock, will not even rebuild them.

BTW, I have Afco double adjustables all around for my car.

You may be right, I sorta think your logic is narrow minded. The right part for every car and every enthusiast isn’t always the most expensive one, nor the most sophisticated one. Are double adjustable shocks more adjustable? Duh.... Are they always the best investment for the 10-second bracket racer? Maybe not. Either way, my money says Every Dragstrip USA is littered with cars with non-adjustable 90/10 front shocks that work really well, win races, and there’s probably plenty of them that are faster than the guy next to them in the staging lanes with $500 double adjustables......

Some of the Vikings can be revalved. IIRC he Vikings I ran can't. Those are the shocks that bolt into OE locations.

Again, IIRC the Crusader Line is the shocks they can revalve. I'd have to find my catalog to say for sure though. And I don't know where I put it when I redid the library. Someday I will find where I put it at the time that I thought was the correct place. It's not with the rest of the car books. Or, I loaned it out and it hasn't found its way back yet.

So what other parts on your car would you accept with limited adjustability? I mean really, a carb that is only partially tuneable? Or a cam that can't be degreed? Or a suspension you can't tune?


It's not myopic to think that a 90/10 shock is anything other than a relic. Period. The last Vikings I bought were $185.00 each shipped. That's $740.00 shipped for 4 shocks that can be tuned independently for bump and rebound. To me, that's cheap money. I won't even do more than mention most guys aren't capable of tuning shocks anyway, so maybe I am myopic.


BTW, dirt bike have had double adjustable suspensions since the late 1980's and yet car guys still don't get it.


Also BTW, neither myself no anyone else suggested the OP drop big dope in Big Guns, Mencscers, Santhuffs or anything like that. Just simple DA Viking shocks. He crazy thing is Viking doesn't even make a SA shock because they don't see the point. Nether do I. I have a cousin fighting his SA shocks when I told him NOT to waste money on them. He is struggling. I told he to call me back when he gets a real shock and not until then.


There is a difference between value and just plain wasting money.

I always find this topic interesting. My car is only a low 12 second car so; I'm not in the same class nor do I have the same needs as someone running 10.60's. The suspension on my car his not been touched since at least the mid 90's. I have the cheapest Monroe parts store shocks on my car that are most likely 30 years old. My car flat out hooks at the track and drives nice on the street. I've thought about buying nicer shocks but, I've decided not to right now; I don't see the need or value. If the car hooks now, what would shocks do for me?

Anyway, here's my opinion. I remember an old thread where Monte was telling a story about a high powered car that he was helping someone with. I can't remember exactly what the car ran but, I know it was at least an 8 second car. Monte seamed to be a big proponent of buying the best shock that you can afford. Some of these shocks are thousands of dollars. On this car, the shocks were upgraded and the car picked up a few thousandths or a little more; everyone was happy with the outcome. I remember thinking to myself, for a serious class or heads up racer, that may matter but, for most, bracket racing is the game and what does it matter if the car is .04 quicker, as long as the car is consistent. I personally would not pay $3300 for Santhuff shocks etc. to pick up .04. Frankly, I would be pissed if I spent that kind of money for that outcome.

The question to me is, what are you doing with the car, are you having issues hooking up now, is the car inconsistent etc.? Back to my situation, I'm having no issues and just don't think the value is there to justify spending $800-$1000 for better shocks. Your situation may differ.

. This was the original question someone looking for a reasonable priced shock I think that going to a double adjustable leaves room for many upgrades on a car it runs 10.60s. It's your money you can buy whatever shock you would like. Heck you can even drilled holes in stock shocks and let the oil out.. .

my narrow mind assumed that a car running 10.60s probably already had a 90/10 shock on it. Another problem that might narrow mind had was I figured he wanted to upgrade from a 90/10 to a reasonably cost double adjustable but again that is coming from a narrow minded person carry on

I have viking rear shocks on my car and I feel they are a good value, that's why I would run them on the front.

Viking D/A's look to be excellent value for money, they had only just come out when I upgraded and I had already stumped up for AFCO D/A's all round. I might have got some of those if hadn't. I now run the AFCO's re-valved by Menscer as we ran out of extension damping at the rear.
The car has been just as fast with C/A 3 ways at the front and Calvert 9 ways on the rear but the car is way more consistent and handle's better but the latter could be psychosomatic.
Now I seem to be getting my head round it all, I can tune the chassis dependent upon tire type and track conditions. D/A's are a worthwhile upgrade and will allow the car to "grow" some without further upgrades.

It's just like everything else. How much power do you have? As power goes up everything needs to get better. A high 11 second car will probably hook with just about any shock if it has enough tire. As the power goes up, the tire gets hit quicker. When that hit becomes to quick for your present shock to slow it, it's time to upgrade. So be honest with yourself. If you are going to continue to add power. Buy a better shock to start with.
Doug

i run the vikings on the front, they are a good shock for the price. the ones i have bolted right in the stock location and are rebuildable. we put more compression valving in them to hold the front up when it come out of the wheelie.