Thanks so much for the input guys. Chip your pickup hose routing is real close to one of the ideas I was going to explore.

It was either something like that, or maybe snake it through the motor mount bracket on the K frame (I'll be using a motor plate, but would rather not chop the mounts off the k frame if I can help it).

Al thanks for the part number and pic, the old 829 lifters look like they are going to work, but yours are good alternatives. A little oil through the pushrods might be a smart addition before I start smoking pushrods and adjusters (rather than waiting until after).

Went and bought more oiling related stuff to check out. Had one of those nice looking newer black milodon pump covers for awhile and talked myself out of it. Didn't like the looks of any of my ideas. I wanted 135 degree hose end and couldn't come up with one, and worked myself into a corner. Then I was looking at Chip's setup and realized he had 135 degrees in front, but he used two pieces to get there instead of one. I tried that with my Fragola stuff and it worked out. Clearance is tight.

Here's my current situation. On other threads I've been told I should have a higher output oil pump but I want to give the old m63hv a try. They are all I've used since 1988 on big blocks.

I experimented with lighting and a diffuser here, in hopes of slightly less ugly pics.

If you are shooting with a digital camera go buy a tripod and then shoot on manual mode.

If that's a 440 source pan your using, I welded my baffle in all the way around. The spot weld holding it look pretty small, and also it holds the oil when welded all the way around

Rich who are you using for balancing?

Andy, I probably do need to bust out the camera again soon.
I haven't seriously used it for posting since the shop build/circa 2011/2012. This stuff was all done with a phone... out of convenience. I actually have two tripods also, same situation. Might make a change.

N20, yes it's a 440 source pan. That's a good idea. I want to do other welding to it so will add that to the list.

Bob, probably go with LSM or Best.

Shooting good pictures with a phone is super hard. I do all of my pictures with an old digital SLR. A SLR on a tripod allows you to get everything in focus even in low light without a flash.

Looks like they don't sell the 848 anymore, it's 861 now.

I am not sure what 845 was but I can't find it.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-848-16

Yes the 861 is what I've been using lately. Less expensive than the 829 but a much better lifter. I've suggested to Comp marketing a few times that they just stop selling the 829 and replace it with the 861 but they do not listen to me. I don't think the 829 even has oiling to the roller so it is really outdated. The 861 has roller oiling as well as pushrod oiling. If you don't need the pushrod oiling you just block it off with a solid end on the pushrod.

Ah, I should have bought that set of 861 from you when I had the chance.
Might order a set to see if I like them more than the 829, and save my spare 829s for something else.

I fit the cam button the other night and cleaned the exterior of the block with some DX579 + rinsed and silicone sprayed it so it wouldn't rust... and got out the old camera, tripod and the new budget lighting.

This camera has noticeably lower resolution than the phone, I am kind of shocked I can see the difference between 6 megapixels and 8, but even with that it still seems overall pic quality just improved a little bit. I have another camera to try later that will probably really do the trick. Maybe I will do a "STAGE II" post later with pictures that aren't so ugly.

Having painted my last two engines (a 440 and a 5.7) with Mopar Performance Turquoise, then the one before that with PPG3116 orange/spray gun all with nice results, I decided I want to try
VHT SP120 Orange on this one and will also be using primer for the first time as well. The dx579 lightly etches the surface(it's phosphoric acid based)so that should help quality.

After all these years, cam buttons still aren't really standardized. I tried a Lunati and a Comp this time. The Lunati roller's center ring fit in the cam gear perfectly, but the button needed to be cut down and it's steel...Or the timing cover needed to be dented outward...I wasn't willing. The Comp nylon was super easy to cut down (and needed it), but the center ring was too big to fit into a Comp timing gear by .050 or so. Ended up making the nylon one work. I've also used the diamond roller button earlier on the 451, it's pretty good but like so many other performance parts it doesn't really just 'fit' either without a little effort.

Yep, those pictures are much better than the phone. Using the tripod allows you to slow the lens way down which allows it to get more light.

The cam button thing always bugged me which is why I started to make my own. Of course, that didn't really solve the whole problem since Cloyes stopped making the timing set that I designed my cam button to fit. But for a few years I had a solution that fit and worked right out of the box.

I have a set of 861 lifters that I'm planning to sell since I've switched all of my stuff over to hyd roller. This set is used but was just refurbished by Comp so they look new and are ready to drop in. Shoot me PM if you want them.

Jump on these and if you use PR oiling don't forget to restrict the orifice in the PR.

Yep, done!

Andy mentioned it months ago and it went right over my head at the time, thought they would be gone by now so it's pretty cool to see they are still available.

Not a fan of the nylon button for anything but a flat tappet cam.

I just dent the cover and use the Comp 204 button.
The Indy cover clears this button as well.

Current pricing in Summit shows the 829’s are $515.99.

The 861’s are $585.99, and then you need to buy the 829-L link bars for $47.92........ $633.91 total.

Thanks for the info Dwayne, I like the idea and price of the Indy timing cover so that sounds like a good option.

The Indy cover doesn't fit under a stock water pump housing and it doesn't have a timing pointer....

So, how did the new paint work out? I've always had good luck with several light coats of mopar paint, although still never as deep as painting with a gun.

Andy definitely sets the bar high on the project-progress photography.

Yep but The AR engineering motor plate will act as a spacer, and timing pointer can just be a 5 dollar sheet metal thing, I'd be happy to with that.

I don't have a hub for my damper yet so the longer version would be needed if I went down that road.