I pulled one valve cover & noticed that #8 intake rocker arm is adjusted WAY "taller" than the other rockers.

Thanks gentlemen, I have not put the #8 intake lobe on the base circle of the cam yet.......

Not Mine

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rKHzu16GCGo

But My XE 275HL Sounds Identical At Idle

Much quieter under full throttle

It just looked really odd that ONE adjustment screw was very noticeably "taller" than all the rest of the rocker arms.

Point I was trying to make is Purplebeeper might not bee hearing anything unusual

Other then the fact of the XE 274 Camshaft and lifters fast rate sewing machine

That’s why I posted that video of the same cam off YouTube in a 440

I mis read your first reply, sorry.

A long shot but, not all adjuster screws are the same length.

Has one been replaced and it’s just longer than the others?

On another subject...... if you’re running the P2806077 spring...... that might be my most disliked spring of all time.
Not enough on the seat, too much over the nose, and nowhere near enough travel to run the higher lift cams it’s recommended for.
I actually refuse to install them on customers heads when they send/bring them with their heads.
In fact, if someone called to order I cam from me, and told me they were going to run those springs........ I’d pass on the cam sale.
I’m sure much of the trouble MP head with the failing .620 cams was the result of people using those springs.

It’s a pretty high rate spring........ too high for any type of regular hyd cam and lifters imo.
I’m sure it’s giving those lifters a serious workout.

As to the question posed in the thread title......
The only time I’ve ever seen the plunger “stuck” in any position on a hyd lifter is if it’s basically seized in place.
Could this happen with the plunger at or near the top of its travel?
I don’t see why not.

Should be easy enough to determine, especially with those big springs.
Turn the motor over until that valve is fully open........ and leave it like that for a while(an hour, overnight, etc).
After a period of time, turn the motor over until the valve is fully closed...... then go just a bit further to ensure you’re on the base circle.
At the point, the spring load should have pushed some of the oil out of the lifter, and made it “soft”. So you should be able to grab the rocker arm and see if you can compress the lifter any.
If it’s still 100% rock hard with zero “give”....... it probably needs more scrutiny.

The “normal” scenario with hyd lifters these days is....... you rotate the motor to get the valve fully opened......... and you can just watch the spring load collapse the lifter.

Hey Lew, maybe I have the name wrong, but the springs are the very old Direct Connection dual springs that were listed for the smaller solid lifter cams & as "optional" on the old original Direct Connection purple shaft 292/509 hydraulic cam. This motor was built in 1985 & I have since changed the camshaft (fyi).


At one point I did replace two of the Isky ball/cup pushrods, which made me wonder if my replacements were accidentally the solid-lifter version (slightly longer vs. hydraulic pushrods)…..checked that & the pushrod matches the other ones.

It's just that this one adjustment screw is so much different than the others (visually). My only thought are:
a. I missed adjusting that rocker
b. That valve has a push rod too long (checked that, not it)
c. The lifter is stuck in the fully pumped up position
d. My rocker shaft is loose, so my valve lash adjustments are WAY off.


This all started tracking down valve gear noise. I double checked my rocker/valve cover clearance...no "witness marks" on valve cover baffles. I don't think I have any bent pushrods, but I will roll them all on a mirror just to be sure.

Any other thoughts?