Hello,
I'm looking at these Re-Pop upper control arms for my '70 B Body and saw that I can get a pair fully assembled for under $100. I also saw some that are around $200 a pair. Does anybody know the difference between these two brands??
I'm assuming that the $200 one might be better quality??
Was hoping someone could fill me in on these Re-Pop control arms.

I could only get about 110 lbs of torque on my new ball joints before the wrench stopped increasing in torque as though the thread was starting to fail.
Not interested in gambling with a used set of arms and want to stay with stock type arms.
Thanks for any comments and suggestions, Jeff

Are we supposed to guess which ones you were looking at?

Can't tell you the difference between the "two brands" if we have no idea which "brands" you were looking at.

That all said, Dr Diff sells UCA's for b bodies near that lower price point and I have never heard anything bad about his stuff.

The down and dirty way of solving your problem at hand is to weld the joint to the arm! LOL...not saying it's right, or that I would do it, but it's been done many times!

They also make a sleeve that can be welded into these arms to replaced a botched up set of threads...
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/shop/modified-ball-joints-and-accessories

I dunno, $98 for a pair of ready to install (new bushings and ball joints included and install in the arms) beats anything else.


http://www.doctordiff.com/upper-control-arms.html

It is not unheard of that the upper ball joint can't be torqued. I found 4 tack welds on my 1968 Chargers arms. It seemed to hold fine. Though, I have since replaced the arms with other originals.

OK, two brands I am looking at are the Dr.Diff for $100 and P-S-T for $200.
I have no problem paying for better quality. Just don't want to pay more for the same assembly's.
Thanks for your input, Jeff

I put the Dr Diff ones on my '69 Super Bee a couple of years ago. They worked perfectly and I can still hardly believe that they are so inexpensive given that they come with bushings and ball joints.

I used a set of tubular upper control arms from Firm Feel . . . gotta love them coming with ball joint and bushings installed.

I had a customer who furnished his own parts bring me a front disc brake setup. I order my stuff through dr diff. The parts were exactly the same and he paid twice what I paid from dr diff. I think dr diff has less of a mark up. Just my opinion. Cass has always done me right and I pay a reasonable price.

I got the entire kit from Dr.D

Good quality parts.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Suspensio...er/183616110548

Thanks for your help guys.
I contacted Dr. Diff. and I have a set on the way.

Thanks again, Jeff

Last set I seen on a customer's car no mile on them ball joints lose and oe ball joint don't fit went back to oe control arms

dr diff arms or others ?

Isn’t MBM The Ones Who Make/Rephrase SELL All These To Dealers

http://mbmbrakes.com/1962-1972-mopar-b-body-1970-74-e-body-oem-upper-control-arms/

Well. I may have spoken too soon on my upper control arms. I had to buy complete arms because on of the factory arms had the ball joint loose and had popped out. I figured it was cheaper for them just to buy the complete arm from dr diff. I’ve had problems with some being too loose in the past and had to spot weld them. Anyway, I just installed these new one today and the upper bushings turn inside the arm, not the bushing. Since they come assembled, I thought I’d test them. The arm appears correct, it’s the bushing that is too small. It’s almost .014 to small. It almost looks like someone turned it down on a lathe so it would slide in easier. Lol. Looks like I’ll have to email Cass. And yes, I looked at the website for mom brakes and the part no on the arm is the same. So much for saving time here. At least the ball joint is tight on it.