I can do autocross but I prefer club open tracks days. That list from FABO is what I am looking for. Do a simple basic build and if there is a need I can move up from there. Thanks for all the info.
If you're just running for the enjoyment of it, and using Green Brick list, here's how I'd change it for your '65.
Still choose your tires first.
If your going to use 200 TW, 17"+ rim sizes may be the only choice.
If following the Green Brick and going 15", then Toyo RA1 in 225/50-15 or R888 in the same or 235 and similar are available.
Tension strut rod bushings changed to urethane (check fit and cut down if need as shown here:
http://www.heritech.org/cuda/bushings.html)
Moog k7103 problem solver upper control arm bushings
installed to add caster.
Gusset upper control arm mount from bracket to rail if needed.
Weld heavy washer to k member around nose of lower control arm stud tube - if needed.
Frame connectors
Gusset steering box mounting bracket to k member - may not need to do this on '65.
74 and up C body tie rods 11/16 bolt - or just weld the sleeve center so its a tube.
Urethane sway bar frame bushings
Box lower control arm - if you want.
990 torsion bars minimum. The stickier tires, the larger bars needed. For R-comps or 200 TW, 1.03" minimum.
1.125" inch sway bar. Same deal as above. Use the strongest end links you can put on.
Koni shocks on full firm: These will be a custom build., Good alternatives include Spax, Bilstiens, etc. before to an all competition shock like the Koni Reds, Penskes etc.
16:1 manual steering box (firm feel), or power steering stage 3 depending on the driver.
Eliminate bump steer in the chassis book
Alignment specs from the green brick 1.5 degrees negative camber (Follow tire mfc suggestions for this)
2.5 positive caster
1/16 to 3/32 toe in
(Start alignment by lowering front end to 0.5 - 1.5" ride ht)
Rear end
De arched ss springs. Alternatives are afcos or Firm Feels, Stanley Spring repop of the 383 spring.
Raise front spring eye for lowering rear and improving anti-squat. How much depends on the rear springs and the rear weight (and how much street use it will also see)
Rancho kicker shocks from offroad dodge pickups which controls wheel hop - May not need this with a well clamped front leafs, and/or by raising the front spring eye.
Brakes:
If you already have Kelsey Hayes 4 piston calipers, just install some pads that can handle track. eg Porterfield RS-4, EBC Red, etc. etc. depending on tires and track.
If not, then whatever disk setup you'ld like. Keep it light. Your car doesnt weigh much compared to later cars.
Light weight aluminum 15 x 8 rims. 15 x7 or 15 x 7.5 will fit with no problem and be fine with 225 or 235 width tires. 8" may need some massaging and careful checking. Do not underestimate the amount the tires, wheels, and suspension move relative to the body.
Oil control. At minimum, baffle the stock pan. Even better, a Kevko or Milidon road race or your own custum sump.
Breathers and PCV may need to be raised and interconnected and/or use a catch tank.
Coolant overflow catch can or return bottle mandatory of course.
To recap, the big things are tires, t-bars, front sway bar, and decent shocks.
