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What is considered a bad ridge,how do you tell exactly? A ridge period,or a large or small one?

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Would'nt the pistons need removed to get rid of the ridge?I've never done it before. Sorry to hi-jack the post,in the same boat kinda.

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not necessarily , it just needs to be clear of the reamer . Yes it has to be removed , but as said if you have a big ridge then you need to look at other things like bore taper , cylinder roundness ... The ring needs to seal for 100% of its travel , not just at the top.

I'll bet at least one of out shadetrees has removed the ridge on a block they never disassembled

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Another item to consider is the ring groove clearance in the piston. No matter how good the bores are .. if the ring flutters in the piston .. it will lose ring-seal big-time.

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I've already knocked the ridge out with a buddy who has done a few engines in his day, so the ridge is gone. Every cylinder wasnt the same, the largest reading I found was about 10 thousanths real close to where the ridge was, and it became about 7 thousanths with little movement and about 5 at the bottom of the bore.

Most of them were between about 4-6 thousanths throughout the bore, as I said the largest was 10, one was 9, and the next largest was 7.

Dave, like I said I wasn't planning to tear it down originally but I took the intake off and found it was a bit sludgey and figured head gaskets come in the kit, may as well pop the heads off. Good thing I did because IT DIDNT HAVE HEAD GASKETS! I dont know why, I assume someone took it apart and put it back together without the gaskets not planning to run it? Anyway, someones been in it before, and they messed up big time. It looks like the rings were replaced before because they didnt look too worn, and the same person replaced the rod bearings with .010 undersized units. Maltese cross with an X, .010 undersized rod bearings right? WRONG, the main bearings were supposed to be undersized. Heads werent pretty either, one valve was burned clear through to the seat. It has one bad cam bearing too (its MISSING PART OF THE BEARING HAHA). The crank looks good though and I cleaned the pistons and rods up and they're in nice shape too. I was very surprised because they didnt seem to sit far below deck at all.

So im picking up a re-ring and bearing kit (comes with a gasket kit) from Mancini. My buddy Pete had a set of 516s lying around, I told him mine were bad I dont want to shell out for machine work how do his look. Looks like they have fresh exhaust valves and seats, if not theyre in GREAT SHAPE. Hes selling me those, the 67 intake I need, and a set of good HP valve springs (should work well for the 272/272 cam I want to run) for 100 bucks





Can someone explain to me the entire idea behind knurling the skirts and how it works?



Also, my factory service manual indicated an allowance of 2 thousanths (4.32-4.322 inch bore) so I guess I can subtract 2 thousanths from any of my measurements.

What have you guys found on engines you've rerung and how did it turn out? Im just worried im going to put this together and have it run like a low compression turd with 100 psi of cranking compression. My last 440 was VERY tight and I think I may have been spoiled with it, I want this one to run the same but not so confident it will.

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Gee and I remember a thread where a bunch of members told you to just run it as is ... ...

Knurling the pistons will work very nicely with the rest of the half bleep job you got going on there .

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Can someone explain to me the entire idea behind knurling the skirts and how it works?

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Its a thing where you use a knurl tool to raise material on the surface of the piston skirt to reduce clearance/slap. A knurl looks like the criss cross finish you see onthe handle of cheap tools, like made in china ratchets.

It's a technique developed to reuse old parts when new ones are scarce, or too expensive.

Not worth the time on a re ring in a hobby car
A piston that needs a knurl likely needs ring land spacers, etc.., so in reality it needs pistons

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What have you guys found on engines you've rerung and how did it turn out? Im just worried im going to put this together and have it run like a low compression turd with 100 psi of cranking compression. My last 440 was VERY tight and I think I may have been spoiled with it, I want this one to run the same but not so confident it will.

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My last rering has been a little iffy, but the two before that were great. Good compression, good power, no oil consumption.

It's a low dollar crap shoot. Odds are in your favor if you do it right. The finish on hone will make or break the job.

Back in the day it was a very common thing to do.

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Another item to consider is the ring groove clearance in the piston. No matter how good the bores are .. if the ring flutters in the piston .. it will lose ring-seal big-time.

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What do you mean by flutter in the piston? Move freely up and down? (meaning towards TDC and BDC)

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I wouldn't do it. Proper cylinder walls should be round and straight. No way to get that without machining. If you are going to all the trouble to pull it apart, why not go ahead and do it right? Having said that, if you do decide to give it a shot, make sure that you use cast rings. They are more forgiving and will conform somewhat to out of round cylinder walls. Maybe you could pick up another engine and build it at your leisure, then swap it out when you are ready? Either way good luck.

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Thats kind of the idea, I want this engine to run well for maybe two years while I take care of the little bit of rust, the dent, the interior, and paint it.

Then I can splurge and go all out

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I wouldn't do it. Proper cylinder walls should be round and straight. No way to get that without machining. If you are going to all the trouble to pull it apart, why not go ahead and do it right? Having said that, if you do decide to give it a shot, make sure that you use cast rings. They are more forgiving and will conform somewhat to out of round cylinder walls. Maybe you could pick up another engine and build it at your leisure, then swap it out when you are ready? Either way good luck.

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I wouldn't do it. Proper cylinder walls should be round and straight. No way to get that without machining. If you are going to all the trouble to pull it apart, why not go ahead and do it right? Having said that, if you do decide to give it a shot, make sure that you use cast rings. They are more forgiving and will conform somewhat to out of round cylinder walls. Maybe you could pick up another engine and build it at your leisure, then swap it out when you are ready? Either way good luck.

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Thank You for bringing this up so I don't have to! It's amazing the number of replies to this before being mentioned. DUDE - You have to ask seriously yourself, What are your diameters in both "out of round" and "taper" measurements on each cylinder? There are tolerances for these and they must be complient with the book in order for this to last. You say someones been in there and mucked things up, well, do it right and go through it completely. You'll be bucks ahead in the long run, otherwise give your money to me. I'll spend it more wisely than you the way your going with this!

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Cheap ain't,good ain't cheap!

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I did a rering and torque plate hone on a 110K 360 replaced all bearings etc. The heads cost me 500. The point here the pistons needed replaced etc I spent 150 bucks on the block figured 2 years on the engine in 1990! today ove 1000qtr mile runs and 30K + of street miles with 4.30 or 3.90 gears that car still uses no oil and runs fine. Do what you can afford and enjoy the car I do !

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