Simple question, stock firewall, stock floor, what is the requirement to run 7.50's?

I know a simple roll cage is good to 8.50 and I'm all about being safe but what if the car runs low 8's?

I will be building my cage out of Chrome Moly.

Thanks!

Contact SFI rule specs for 25.5 D cert. Your wallet will be $38 lighter.
Doug

It takes more than a simple cage including a funny car cage. Best get the SFI spec then there's no doubt you have correct info.

Funny car type cage is required to go from the 8.50 certs to 7.50. My C.M. tube chassis Cuda needs that done to go faster next year, hopefully It was built a lot of years ago and the funny car cage wasn't required back then, it is now

8.50 to 7.50 unibody with stock floor/firewall goes from a simple sportsman cert to the SFI 25.5D for 3600# max. Funny car cage, additional tubing in the floor and some things installed differently. Depending on how they were built, I've seen 8.50 cars that needed to be torn apart and redone to get them right for the 25.5. Wasn't as simple as adding bars. On a car going into the 8s, I would go on and make it legal for 25.5.

We went with a C.M. 25.5 cage in my Challenger the first time we did the cage in it. Better safe than sorry. Easier to do all at once then go back over & over & keep adding to it.

Hey, Big Inch. Just put as much crome moly tubing in there as you can. Then get a gallon of Goriila glue to hold it together. Then you're good to go! Some more sound advice from your uncle.

Not to go against the grain of what you're saying but professionals like Bill Lutz are using RTV now-a-days.

I see what you did there. LOL

obviously none of you guys have a clue to what you were talking about all the high in chassis shops now are gluing the cage together with Flex Seal. I guess the benefit is you do not need a grinder to touch up the glue

I'm betting that your car will need more updating than you think IF and I said IF the inspector checks under your car. A lot of inspectors don't but my car was on a rack at the time and it needed 6 bars added because of rule changes over the years when I updated my mild steel Daytona from 8.50 to 7.50.


And my Daytona already had a funny car type of cage.

Actually I have been watching this post closely I have been avoiding the chassis update on my car for multiple reasons.. I have been lucky most of the racing that we do is 1/8th mile racing on quarter mile tracks.. usually we don't draw too much attention that way

I write my racing off as a business so licencing, physicals, spot rentals, chassis tech, etc, etc, just kinda plays into it.

According to the first NHRA inspector that looked at my car when I had it certified the first time for me here in division 6 said it all it needed was the funny car cage to be certed to 7.50 due to the amount of bars in the chassis under the floorboards, 6 from the rear suspension to the foot bar
This car has gone 6.80s at around 184 MPH before I bought it less engine, it had a blown B1 KB motor on Methanol back then. It sat for 6 yrs. before I got it 5 yrs ago
Hopefully the new, better bigger C.I., better headed motor will run 8.80 or quicker at 150+ MPH

My blue Duster was built for 6.50 cert but being they are only good for two years instead of three I will have it stickered for 7.50 cert. that will easily cover my ET.

I have looked at all the SFI chassis specs. years ago, the weight and body type,open or door car, made a lot of differences on the wall thickness on every bar
My Cuda weighs right at 2800 Lbs. with me in it ready to race

I have a Duster with a 6.0 cert and I don't want that many bars in a car that is uncut. I understand if that's what it takes, that's what it takes. The cage would add enough weight that I wouldn't have to worry about low 8's unless I spray some juice to it.

I was told just add a funny car cage and if that was all that was needed I could do that without adding a lot of weight.

Anyways thanks for the input!

I'm off to buy Gorilla Glue, RTV and Flex Seal.

FC cage and a few bars on/under/above floor will cover it generally.

I was surprised each time i have re-certed my car how the NHRA inspector go/no go gages each bar, sonic checks each bar even the under car bars. I was a little nervous when he stood up aftwer inspecting underneath & asked what chassis shop built this car? I said "my buddies & I did, it's home built" & he said "it is one bad ass m.f'er & I am a Chevy guy". Made me feel pretty good for a guy that inspects thousands of cars a year to compliment mine.

You guys joke but I know of one of our local No E.T./Grudge cars that the track officials finally told our buddy with a sleeper 10.5" tire Mustang with no cage & factory lap bet, we know how fast you are going & we would appreciate it if you put a cage in the car. He did, it is all glued together plastic PVC with some roll bar padding on the door bar & head bars to look the part. The officials never said anything again. It is funny watching him climb over the door bar & it flexes as he gets in & out.

Not for me though. I would rather be safe.