I did not investigate how they test cca. It wouldn't mean much to me anyway. All I care about is will it start the car and stay charged from the alternator.

Most of the LI batteries like Joel mentioned are rated differently than normal lead acid car batteries. They stop the test when voltage drops to 10 volts on LI batteries as I recall, while SAE tests used on lead acid batteries normally run them all the way down to 7.2 volts.

Mu Lithium battery weighs 10lbs and spins the motor over like nothing else ever has. I had two XS 16 volts in it and it was ok. Put in the single Lithium battery and it spins like nothing I have ever heard. That's a 605" BB with 60MM Babbit bearing, 15.8-1 compression and 1300+lbs of open valvespring pressure. In other words it takes a LOT of effort to spin her over.

Al, what Lithium battery are you using?

My current one is a Lithium Pros unit. There are a lot of lithium batteries out there for sure these days. I have heard good and bad about most. My best advice is buy a battery and charger from the same manufacturer and follow their directions religiously. They will go to "sleep" after sitting for long periods of time and some can be a PITA to "wake up". Been there done that..

Al,
Which which Lithium Pro battery are you using?
Thanks,
Bill

I have an L1600A, the reason was the size it fits the battery box that is in the car, also have their charger.

Right on the case it says something about max charge at 12A. How big of an alternator you running?

I was seriously looking into LiFePO4 batteries, until my Optima died on the road a few weeks ago and I replace it with a Deka AGM.

LiFePO4 is more stable that Li-Ion, and you can get batteries that have built in BMS and can take higher charge rates. The only downside was the reserve capacity...

Keep us posted Joel!

I have a 105 amp alternator. I'm no electronical genius, but it is my understanding that the regulator keeps the voltage at a level that will not overcharge the battery. It won't generate enuff voltage to force 105 amps of current flow into a battery that only wants 12 amps.

I just picked up one of these for my Sport Bike:

EarthX Batteries

It's stunning how light it is and how fast it spins my 12:1 750 "L" twin. Also, they have a built-in microprocessor that manages the battery.

Very happy with it and will be running one in the car in the future.

I have a pair of 12V Odyssey PC925 Batterys wired in parallel they are 17# each, Dry Cell so they can be mounted on their side if needed,
around 150.00 eaCH

I do run a alternator and put them on maintainers when not in use.

I was looking at the ETX1200 for my street car. I was close to pulling the trigger, but the battery died unexpectedly on a road trip, so now I have a new battery...haha

Do you know the name of the company? And it's 14 volts?

http://www.intellapower.com/220-project.html

I thought I would resurrect this thread. What are the current thoughts on Lithium batteries? I am intrigued by the EarthX batteries for an NHRA Stock car, but was also considering a 16 volt system. I would be interested to here your experiences.
Thanks, Rod

I have been using a Lithium Pros battery and charger with zero issues. When I first made the switch I had a charger issue, they replaced the charger and battery free of charge. Very happy with it and NOTHING will crank your car over faster. I could not believe how much faster it was than the std XS 16 volt I had in the car.

I designed a small battery shelf for my Duster to hold a lightweight battery. It seems to work just fine. I used it during the summer in my Coronet and it spun the engine over just fine.

Simply put , if all the current required cannot pass through the circuit the cables will overheat and that heat ADDs resistance and reduces the current available to cover the load, it's all interrelated.

Generally though the Ground cable doesn't need to be as large as the Positive cable so long as the length is short and it has solid continuity/connection to the frame.

1/0 AWG welding lead is great cable for line/load connections, it is fine stranded and when used with Crimp connectors makes for a solid air tight connection for all the electrons to flow.

Especially with low voltage systems any resistance at all decreases the energy (current) available dramatically. It's not as much the size of the ground but more the quality of the ground.

OK, here is my update:

I installed the antigravity battery in my hot rod coupe, along with a 105 amp GM alternator. Then I did some street driving, a couple drag strip tests, then completed Drag Week 2018.
I love my little 4.5# AntiGravity battery! It performed flawlessly. With the powermaster starter, it cranked my 13:1, 468" hemi over like the plugs were out of it. Except one time it wouldn't start the car when I forgot the radiator fan on for about 40 minutes. It did not get low enuff to put the battery to sleep. If it does go to sleep, you need a special charger to wake it up. I brought the special charger along on Drag Week, plus a jumper pack that has a built in 110 volt inverter/outlet. So I could plug the charger into it and wake up the battery if it ever got ran that far down.

Not only did I save the weight of the battery, I saved about 20# of cable by mounting the battery a foot away from the starter on the inside of the frame rail, instead of in the trunk. The NHRA mandated battery cut off switch is right there too, with the lever of it on the floor inside the car where I can reach it if I forget to turn it on. A 3/8" x .030" wall stainless steel tube runs from the lever, back through the trunk and out the back of the car as a remote control for the switch. That is much lighter than a Morse cable.

Bottom line, I liked my battery so much, I started down the path of becoming a dealer for them. But their terms regarding liability and indemnification for dealers were unacceptable to me, so I passed on that opportunity, but I still love their battery's.