Yes to all, agree with the thought process and was headed down that road. It's pretty well known folks have overfilled for many years with no adverse effects. I do like to know where I'm starting from.

Since I probably won't engine dyno it, the logical thing to do is put a sight tube on it and put a camera under the car on chassis dyno to really know where the oil level is.

I admit the hardest thing for me to consider is the vehicle moving/dynamic environment. It's easier to imagine it sitting static.

Will play around with a few ideas and figure something out, I have an idea which combination(s) to look at next.

Thanks for the encouraging comments!

Thanks for this info zippy, I have a 451 which IIRC was what you had too. The valve covers I’m using don’t have baffles in them and if I have to weld on them I may as well weld in the bungs now. At some point the 451 will become a spare and the valve covers will move to the new engine.

Anytime. I actually still really like my 451 and want to keep running it for awhile. In this day of aftermarket parts I think it ran pretty well considering it was built on a broke musician's budget (et and mph in signature, alot more left).

That was the case with my 572 wedge that Dwayne built a few years back. Tried the street hemi pan/windage tray/internal pickup. On the dyno it was losing oil pressure as the rpms climbed. Dwayne wasn't happy and we went with a Charlies pan with dual pickups....one line to the pump and the other to the port on the front of the block. Dwayne surmised that the long arm was creating (excessive) windage which was wreaking havoc with the oil control. Going off memory the problem began to appear just past 5000rpm on the dyno and oil pressure continued to drop all the way to the 6200rpm redline.

Worked like a charm with the new oiling system....rock solid oil pressure on the dyno and in the car running down the track. No windage tray....just a screen that is built-in to the Charlie's pan.

Cool project Zippy !!



Ron

[img]http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=64059.0;attach=117478;image[/img]

[img]http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=64059.0;attach=117649;image[/img]

Ron I remember that, and our short conversation on the phone back then about the mp block deal.

I've been asking around and have excellent input from both deep pan and shallow pan users, all long time moparts members.

No issues with mine up to 7900 on the dyno. I didn't want the big & low typical Mopar sump oil pan on the street & wheel stands crushing it. I went with the flat bottom dragster pan & dual external lines & I run a tubular K frame to clear it.

I've watched all your posts 6pk, thanks for the input.

It will have a stock or near stock/reinforced K frame for the time being.

If somebody gave me another K frame to modify I would be OK with the old familiar cutting and boxing for a little more clearance, but I am not going to deliberately chase that.

Zippy It's been a while, but if I remember right, there is a stock hemi pan that holds 6 quarts. You can overfill it by a quart or 2, because the hemi holds a lot of oil upstairs when it is running. I modifyed a stock pan by extending the front of the sump forward about an inch, and lowered the bottom of it about 1.5". I was trying to keep stock proportions and a stock look. It added about a quart, maybe 2, to the capacity. I like to use a crank scraper from Ishihara-Johnson. Another thing you can do is mount tubes in the crankcase, where the top of the tube covers the drainback hole from the head, and the bottom of the tube hangs into the pan. This keeps the drainback oil from the heads off the crankshaft.

https://imgur.com/a/m1Ppjkd

Thanks for repeating the info here Joel, it helps the whole community.

Also thanks again for confirming f.a.s.t. setup, the pans on similar vehicles always looked just slightly bigger as they usually hang down below the K member just slightly.

Will be ordering a couple pieces to play with which should help me decide.

do you modify the stock oil pickup when doing this?

Even with a modified sump you can squish them

I used a milodon pickup for an 8 quart pan, but I cut itt shorter and re-threaded it.

Hey Rich,

I tried to attach a few pics but the link didn't work. Send me your e-mail if you want me to send a few pics.

The Charlies pan is a 10qt and I run 9 qts as per Dwayne's recommendations. The fabbed aluminum pan is not a deep sump....hangs a few inches below the K-frame. I have a 2in skid plate that I've been meaning to weld on.....will get to it this season. The pan is long and the center link passes through the pan so it takes a bit more effort to remove the engine. I had to do some minor clearancing on the steering box mount to clear the -12 90* fitting on the back of the oilpump cover. Other than that it went in pretty easy.

That Charlies pan is very nice with lots of baffles/trap doors and built in screen. I wouldn't hesitate to go this route again if I was building a 4.5in stroke deal.



Ron

thanks Ron, I'd love to check it out, all info is appreciated and could come in handy later.

rhwang3 @ yahoo dot com

To start with I'm going to try a traditional deep sump without the centerlink hole, (have an idea for changes to the shape of the pan) and will see how that works. I have an idea for windage tray/screen that I want to try out also.

I've had a Moroso deep pan on the car since 2001 and never smashed it, however that may be only because I haven't tried hard enough

Great input from all, many of them only in PM....many thanks.

Ok, here is my junk, no hoses for the suction line, its a -12 solid line
the first pics were the interference with a Hemi mount and oil pump suction lines...

Ok, this is what I had to make work:
Milodon road race pan, -12 rigid line and Al Debevic had to make a custom motor mount to clear the fuel pump on the other side.

Here is what I started out with rockers, factory wide pads, Dvorak Stands and standard height valve, comp 959 spring, Titanium retainers, .080 tall lash caps.

Here are some more but I cant seem to attach them

Aha...thank you.

The shot with the radiator hose is the one I wanted to see. It's tight but looks like it works. I am going to try internal for openers but if it doesn't work out, using that hole in the front of the block is the fall back plan.

Sure, internal pickup or the hole in the front of the block is slightly more restrictive than an external line right to the pump cover but it seems windage is the bigger problem rather than oil delivery. I'm hoping one of these will be the right comprimise for a street/strip app.

Valvetrain looks like a future source of entertainment!

Fill the pan and mark the stick for the amount in the pan itself. You may start with 9 quarts in the motor and only see 7-7 1/2 in the pan after you run it once when new. This way you always know the true pan level. Then you can experiment. With my Charlies pan the stock dipstick hits the bottom of the pan where there is no oil, sump is further rearward and deep. Dragster pans can actually allow a lot of oil to climb up the back of the block on accell unless there is a significant amount of baffling.
Doug