If I remember correctly, that center carb is quite pricey $$$

Every six pack car I have tested with a six pack against a similar tuned single four barrel went faster with the six pack, same on engine dyno testing with more HP at a lower RPM

^^^

Thats probably because they didn't have a Dom on top

if your buying new stuff a 6pak will be $2500, a ch28 kit will be around $1200, good single 4bbl complete will be around $1000. I've been a die hard 6pak guy for decades; they will make power. but, the manifolds don't fit worth a crap and if you don't understand carb's they can be a headache. I pretty much ignore single 4bbl's anymore, but there are some simple options that will make power. currently i'm stuck on the ch28. for the money spent and ease of operation the ch28 can't be beat. if it were me i'd not do a 6pak and use the extra $1000+ on other parts or just plain stick the money in my pocket.

Yes, the 6 pak has the cool factor.
With the car parked and the hood up.

"Keyboard jockey": playing with tri-power since my 1958 348 "W" engine with 3 X 2 Rochester 2G, 54 years ago...

I think a lot overlook the potential of a stock stroke 440 now that stroker kits are so popular. One thing to remember when using a stock crank is you don't have to worry if it will fit properly, since so many of the new stroker cranks need corrective machining right out of the box.

Just me, but if I was going to build a hot street 440 under 600 hp, I'd stick w/ a stock crank.

Six packs are expensive, but aren't the huge PITA many think they are. They run right there w/ a good single plane and big Holley 4 barrel. The expense is a big drawback though.

The last Holley carb I bought was $900.

The 440 six pack will add value to a 70 cuda if done correctly

Used to be lots of untuned slow Hemis out there. That's been replaced by lots of untuned slow strokers these days. It's more about bragging about them than having a runner for a lot of guys.

i believe it!

i'm a little hesitant to throw this out but that old 3916 was the nicest driving single carb I've ever owned. in fact I still have it. gave $25 for it in 1970; wall hanger now.

OP, here's something that should be considered when choosing your induction system. A carburetor will need a few things to make it a pleasant start and drive. You'll want a choke, manual or automatic, for the cold starts. This is fuel enrichment for cold, dense air. Electric chokes are the simplest, but work at the same rate of opening in all temperatures and can be fickle in extreme colds. You'll want a heat crossover for optimum driveability on a cold engine, but a heat crossover works best with a heat riser valve in one of the exhaust outlets, this requires exhaust manifolds. This keeps the fuel from condensing on the floor of the intake manifold and helps keep the fuel in suspension for proper atomization.

Port fuel injection negates all of this. No heat crossover, no chokes, no heat risers required for cold engine driveability.

You're in Ontario Canada? Brrrrr. just one more thing to consider.

OK, dug up the link HERE.

And before anyone asks "What would you do differently today?", I'll cut to the chase:

1. "Ideally", figure out what my end goal was for performance, and spend way less money doing it once than going through the process in so many incremental steps. The problem for me is that I could never define what "Fast Enough" was along the way, until I hit my chassis limitations based on ET tech requirements.

2. Never spend a penny on OEM iron heads, unless I was getting the work done CHEAPLY (but still of high quality). I could copy my old builds down into the very high 10s using something like ported Sidewinders or Edelbrock Performer RPM heads.

3. Dump hydraulic flat-tappet cams; too RPM limited once you get past maybe 500-ish HP and need to rev the engine past 6K regularly

4. Don't go overly aggressive on solid flat-tappet cam lobes; doesn't do much more than beat up your valve train faster for what I don't believe are "huge" gains. I still can't say at what point I'd go solid roller, considering I've only made that change w/ my last build.

5. Don't "cheap out" on the torque converter for a street/strip car. This is probably over simplifying things, but IMO cheap ones either don't last and/or slip too much when you're looking for increased stall speed.

Rant / Lecture = OFF.

Seen a few strokers that under performed,probably due to unmatched combo &/or not tuned properly

Step 1-
Determine your budget for the complete engine and any upgrades that may need to be done along with it(cooling system, fuel system, trans upgrades, etc).

Once you have that number, it will often steer the direction of the build.