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Re: US Car Tool stiff kit [Re: jcc] #2602628
01/06/19 10:14 PM
01/06/19 10:14 PM
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Posts: 30,989
Oregon
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AndyF Offline OP
I Win
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Oregon
Originally Posted By jcc
Originally Posted By AndyF
Why would I misstate it?

Intentionally, I haven't a clue.

As a human, there are many possibilities.

I am to assume then 12 guage is indeed correct?


http://store.uscartool.com/67-75-A-Body-...idth_p_124.html

Re: US Car Tool stiff kit [Re: jcc] #2602638
01/06/19 10:40 PM
01/06/19 10:40 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,989
Oregon
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AndyF Offline OP
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Oregon
I'd be more interested in the debate if we were all sitting around the CAD station designing a new car. In that situation it would be a worthwhile discussion. However, when we're working on 50 year old cars and have limited options I think it is better to focus on what can be done given the choices.

I'm lucky enough to have a bigger budget, bigger shop and more tools than most guys but I still don't have unlimited time, money, tools, talent, etc. So if I'm going to get a project done I have to work with what I can buy, make, modify, etc. in the budget and time that I have.

If I was designing a new core support from scratch I wouldn't use 12 ga steel but I don't have the time to design my own part and I don't have a big enough brake to bend it. So yeah, maybe it is overkill but so what. I don't really care if there is an extra 5 lbs on the front of the car. It solved a bunch of other problems for me so it was worth it.

I don't think there is anyone on this board who has the ability to fabricate every part they need. I have the tools and resources to fabricate a lot of parts, but it would cost a fortune to custom build every single part so I have to be very strategic about what I custom build vs. what I buy.

Re: US Car Tool stiff kit [Re: AndyF] #2602695
01/07/19 12:30 AM
01/07/19 12:30 AM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050
Texas
GoodysGotaCuda Offline
5.7L Hemi, 6spd
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050
Texas
Originally Posted By AndyF
I'd be more interested in the debate if we were all sitting around the CAD station designing a new car. In that situation it would be a worthwhile discussion. However, when we're working on 50 year old cars and have limited options I think it is better to focus on what can be done given the choices.

I'm lucky enough to have a bigger budget, bigger shop and more tools than most guys but I still don't have unlimited time, money, tools, talent, etc. So if I'm going to get a project done I have to work with what I can buy, make, modify, etc. in the budget and time that I have.

If I was designing a new core support from scratch I wouldn't use 12 ga steel but I don't have the time to design my own part and I don't have a big enough brake to bend it. So yeah, maybe it is overkill but so what. I don't really care if there is an extra 5 lbs on the front of the car. It solved a bunch of other problems for me so it was worth it.

I don't think there is anyone on this board who has the ability to fabricate every part they need. I have the tools and resources to fabricate a lot of parts, but it would cost a fortune to custom build every single part so I have to be very strategic about what I custom build vs. what I buy.



Spot on thumbs


1972 Barracuda - 5.7L Hemi, T56 Magnum 6spd - https://www.facebook.com/GoodysGotaHemi
2020 RAM 1500
[img]https://i.imgur.com/v9yezP9.jpg[/img]
Re: US Car Tool stiff kit [Re: AndyF] #2603600
01/08/19 09:41 PM
01/08/19 09:41 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,766
Appleton, Wisconsin
rtmike Offline
master
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master

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Posts: 2,766
Appleton, Wisconsin
I bought the frame rail subframe connectors, and the torque boxes. I see in the directions they recommend making sure the doors close and open before welding them in. My doors are off the car right now (and would be for a while), is this step critical, or can I make sure the car is level and weld away and adjust the doors when I go to put them in?

Cars a 2 door hartop by the way.


Its not primer its perma gray.
Re: US Car Tool stiff kit [Re: AndyF] #2603621
01/08/19 10:26 PM
01/08/19 10:26 PM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
Kern Dog Offline
Striving for excellence
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Striving for excellence

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Granite Bay CA
I would hang the doors and adjust them. Their recommendation is to ensure the door openings and gaps are as consistent as possible.

Re: US Car Tool stiff kit [Re: AndyF] #2603769
01/09/19 04:17 AM
01/09/19 04:17 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 30,989
Oregon
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AndyF Offline OP
I Win
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Oregon
Here is the payoff for installing the US Car Tool core support. Now I can fit a 27 inch big block radiator with shroud and a 20 inch fan and clutch into a big block A body car.

DSC_3256 (Large).JPG
Re: US Car Tool stiff kit [Re: jcc] #2604181
01/09/19 11:48 PM
01/09/19 11:48 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,688
Marlboro, NY, USA
R
Rick_Ehrenberg Offline
top fuel
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Marlboro, NY, USA
I was "in" on XV's engineering. The guy spent BIG (really big) bucks with some Toronto-based engineering outfit to find out what works, what doesn't. I was there during the test sessions (B-body, 2006). The real surprise was the beefing the top of the rad yoke did NOTHING.

This was done on a "4-post" hydraulic table. The Canadian engineering team was online with an English F-1 engineer in the British Midlands. The fun was hearing the Brit's comments on the stock B-body suspension geometry: "Better than a new BMW...."

Photos here:
XV Testing May 2006 Toronto

The sawtooth frame connectors are, of course, somewhat of a compromise. 2X3" tubing, floor slit, is the way to go. But reality: Very few guys would install that. The sawtooth makes an incredible, immediately-noticeable improvement.

The US cartool copies all fit better than the "original" XV stuff. And their service is 10X better. Just installed some recently.

Shock tower braces work, but must be huge and triangulated back to the firewall. Again...reality check.

Rick

Re: US Car Tool stiff kit [Re: Rick_Ehrenberg] #2604834
01/11/19 11:52 AM
01/11/19 11:52 AM
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 111
Connecticut, USA
MRGTX Offline
member
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member

Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 111
Connecticut, USA
^Awesome insights there, Rick. It's always amazing to hear how "right" Mopar got a lot of things back in the day. The front suspension design in particular is apparently standing the test of time admirably.

Originally Posted By Rick_Ehrenberg
...

Shock tower braces work, but must be huge and triangulated back to the firewall. Again...reality check.



It seems like this could take some of the stress off of the K-member and if so, this might be a much cheaper/easier/less intrusive process than having the K-Member seam-welded...and it might provide at least some of the benefits.

Does anyone make a bolt-in shock tower brace like this or are we talking about fabbing our own?

If so, where on the firewall would be the right place to mount?

Last edited by MRGTX; 01/11/19 11:53 AM.
Re: US Car Tool stiff kit [Re: MRGTX] #2604915
01/11/19 01:34 PM
01/11/19 01:34 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,695
Bitopia
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jcc Offline
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
jcc  Offline
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,695
Bitopia
I have yet to see IMO, a clean effective design solution for old uni-body mopars. Not sure there is one. I took a few shots at it and wasn't satisfied. And to be clear, my objective was not the shock mount point, but more directed at the upper control arm pivot area, albeit as close as they are anyway.


Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
Re: US Car Tool stiff kit [Re: MRGTX] #2604938
01/11/19 02:08 PM
01/11/19 02:08 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,386
Pikes Peak Country
T
TC@HP2 Offline
master
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Pikes Peak Country
Originally Posted By MRGTX
^Awesome insights there, Rick. It's always amazing to hear how "right" Mopar got a lot of things back in the day. The front suspension design in particular is apparently standing the test of time admirably.

Originally Posted By Rick_Ehrenberg
...

Shock tower braces work, but must be huge and triangulated back to the firewall. Again...reality check.



It seems like this could take some of the stress off of the K-member and if so, this might be a much cheaper/easier/less intrusive process than having the K-Member seam-welded...and it might provide at least some of the benefits.

Does anyone make a bolt-in shock tower brace like this or are we talking about fabbing our own?

If so, where on the firewall would be the right place to mount?


Aside from the caster/camber interdependence, the Mopar design was and still is very good.

Welding up the K frame resolves a few other issues than simple engine bay flex. The K is the primary loaded structure in the front end. With supporting the engine, steering box, and the front torsion bar/control arm anchors as well as being spot welded together, welding it up provides a big boost in rigidity to a number of components in addition to the front section of the car.

Because the upper control arm mounts and shock mounts are not radically loaded in a mopar, the shock tower braces is less about providing loading support than it is of increasing the rigidity of the simply cube structure that is the engine bay. By turning it into multiple smaller triangles, you can reduce the flex. Percentage of improvement by doing this, I can't quote a number. Because of the lack of loading in the upper parts of the engine bay, mounting a brace to the firewall can be effective in a mopar, but there is a question in my mind about putting structure that mounts in a large flat plane of sheet that doesn't make me think it is the most effective way to do it.

I read a white paper on nascar design sometime ago. In it they stated that the most heavily loaded area is the firewall/a pillar area. While we aren't running out cars are near 200 mph speeds on superspeedways, it does seem logical to say that improvements in this area on a performance street car can yield gains as well, especially since we lack all the triangulation structure they have in this spot.

Re: US Car Tool stiff kit [Re: AndyF] #2605247
01/12/19 01:20 AM
01/12/19 01:20 AM
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 111
Connecticut, USA
MRGTX Offline
member
MRGTX  Offline
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Connecticut, USA
Great information...
I just found this one..but I’ve never heard anyone endorsing their products.

http://www.magnumforce.com/magnumstore/mobile/item.aspx?itemid=21

Re: US Car Tool stiff kit [Re: AndyF] #2605294
01/12/19 05:01 AM
01/12/19 05:01 AM
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 342
dracut mass usa
S
sparcy Offline
enthusiast
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 342
dracut mass usa
wow
Andy your the best. I blow people way in work with your math,, I call it. A good friend of mine says did you do the MATH ? I love that saying. DO THE MATH. He said it all the time when we were TAFC racing. I wonder What makes a pro ? There are guys on here that build amazing stuff in there garage. I sold retail and whole sale used auto parts for over 10 years at a very large salvage operation. Talk about stupid people. on both sides. I just bought US car tool spring relocation kit. I did have a problem rite out of the box, one pocket was NOT SQUARE . I was told it happened in shipping I guess They think I am stupid. They were super nice on phone. but the time it took to replace it was terrible. The directions are useless. website has some smoke and mirrors. Front pockets are in. I have 2 Miller welders a bead roller a 4 foot brake a 4 foot roller. etc and not harbor freight, but I do love the xt gun I bought on black sunday better than my snap on. And at my home I just installed a quincy 5 horse 80 gallon compressor wow its awesome. Got a AMD 1/4 panel from jegs all kinds of bent they were great on the customer service. I did the xv radiator support brace and all the auto rust tech guys in RI 13 years ago. what a difference. I had them bend me up 1/8 inch plate inner rockers too. nice people. The only mopar people to screw me was magnum force sold me A body stuff I needed B body called me a liar told me I installed them and he couldn't take them back. I never took them out of the box. I sold them to a guy on here he got a great deal I lost 100's. I love my bullet proof stuff. The US car tool spring pockets are bullet proof. and I love them they are thicker than my inner rockers LMAO. So what is the gauge of the rear frame rail? AMD makes 15 gauge, good mark does not know the guy told my today its as close to factory as they can get. What does that mean ? Must be me I am stupid customer. Sherman makes a 19 gauge patch rear frame rail. anyone got a left rear frame rail for a 68 charger I only need 2 to 3 feet from the rear bumper. I look forward to talking to ron from R/T specialties. What a nice guy.


IF YOU ARE NOT WRECKING STUFF YOU ARE NOT LEARNING !
Re: US Car Tool stiff kit [Re: sparcy] #2605466
01/12/19 04:24 PM
01/12/19 04:24 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,695
Bitopia
J
jcc Offline
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
jcc  Offline
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
J

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,695
Bitopia
Originally Posted By sparcy
wow
Andy your the best. I blow people way in work with your math,, I call it. A good friend of mine says did you do the MATH ? I love that saying. DO THE MATH. He said it all the time when we were TAFC racing. I wonder What makes a pro ? There are guys on here that build amazing stuff in there garage. I sold retail and whole sale used auto parts for over 10 years at a very large salvage operation. Talk about stupid people. on both sides. I just bought US car tool spring relocation kit. I did have a problem rite out of the box, one pocket was NOT SQUARE . I was told it happened in shipping I guess They think I am stupid. They were super nice on phone. but the time it took to replace it was terrible. The directions are useless. website has some smoke and mirrors. Front pockets are in. I have 2 Miller welders a bead roller a 4 foot brake a 4 foot roller. etc and not harbor freight, but I do love the xt gun I bought on black sunday better than my snap on. And at my home I just installed a quincy 5 horse 80 gallon compressor wow its awesome. Got a AMD 1/4 panel from jegs all kinds of bent they were great on the customer service. I did the xv radiator support brace and all the auto rust tech guys in RI 13 years ago. what a difference. I had them bend me up 1/8 inch plate inner rockers too. nice people. The only mopar people to screw me was magnum force sold me A body stuff I needed B body called me a liar told me I installed them and he couldn't take them back. I never took them out of the box. I sold them to a guy on here he got a great deal I lost 100's. I love my bullet proof stuff. The US car tool spring pockets are bullet proof. and I love them they are thicker than my inner rockers LMAO. So what is the gauge of the rear frame rail? AMD makes 15 gauge, good mark does not know the guy told my today its as close to factory as they can get. What does that mean ? Must be me I am stupid customer. Sherman makes a 19 gauge patch rear frame rail. anyone got a left rear frame rail for a 68 charger I only need 2 to 3 feet from the rear bumper. I look forward to talking to ron from R/T specialties. What a nice guy.



eek


Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
Re: US Car Tool stiff kit [Re: TC@HP2] #2606168
01/13/19 10:17 PM
01/13/19 10:17 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,695
Bitopia
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jcc Offline
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
jcc  Offline
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J

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,695
Bitopia
Originally Posted By TC@HP2


Aside from the caster/camber interdependence, the Mopar design was and still is very good.


I agree, and to a large degree, no single area is less robust then it needs to be relative to all the other components, which to me means a balanced design.


Quote:
Welding up the K frame resolves a few other issues than simple engine bay flex. The K is the primary loaded structure in the front end. With supporting the engine, steering box, and the front torsion bar/control arm anchors as well as being spot welded together, welding it up provides a big boost in rigidity to a number of components in addition to the front section of the car.

I agree also, and the fact that it directly support the largest/highest density single mass on the vehicle.

Quote:
Because the upper control arm mounts and shock mounts are not radically loaded in a mopar, the shock tower braces is less about providing loading support than it is of increasing the rigidity of the simply cube structure that is the engine bay. By turning it into multiple smaller triangles, you can reduce the flex. Percentage of improvement by doing this, I can't quote a number.


Not sure how we define "radically" here. but with my back of the napkin thinking, since most all wheel forces transmit thru the front spindle, and the spindle being vertically approx 1/3 above the lower BJ, and the upper BJ approx 2/3 above the spindle, I think it would safe to assume the loads proportioned between the upper and lower as nearly the same ratio. And IMO, the K frame has much greater designed in robustness then the UCA mounting pivot points, beyond the above mentioned ratio, and the UCA apivot area would be an area next focused on, after the low hanging fruit upgrade of welding up the K member.

Quote:
Because of the lack of loading in the upper parts of the engine bay, mounting a brace to the firewall can be effective in a mopar, but there is a question in my mind about putting structure that mounts in a large flat plane of sheet that doesn't make me think it is the most effective way to do it.


I always assumed two things on a well designed/installed Monte Carlo brace on a Mopar, if achievable, both triangle braces from ea fender area would meet at a center node, and that node would also be on a seamed/flanged 90 degree joint of two metal OEM panels.

Quote:
I read a white paper on nascar design sometime ago. In it they stated that the most heavily loaded area is the firewall/a pillar area. While we aren't running out cars are near 200 mph speeds on superspeedways, it does seem logical to say that improvements in this area on a performance street car can yield gains as well, especially since we lack all the triangulation structure they have in this spot.

I wonder in the above if, "Heavily loaded" really means "loaded", or "highly stressed"?

Last edited by jcc; 01/14/19 01:31 PM.

Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
Re: US Car Tool stiff kit [Re: AndyF] #2606334
01/14/19 09:25 AM
01/14/19 09:25 AM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,465
Answering the call of the wild
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ThermoQuad Offline
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ThermoQuad  Offline
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Answering the call of the wild
nice work Andy
I spent hours welding on this car's unibody and k frame,
weld
There is no cage in the car but it does not show any flexing in the unibody after pounding it on the road course. Car is HP limited, not handling limited. Does less than a 2.5 minute lap which is the "bar" at the glen for a good lap. I bet $$$$ it would be nosing/pushing that green brick thing thru the turns without a problem even being hp limited. Absolutely amazing handling large blue concrete block with on center steering feel like rack and pinion steering with factory cruise control.

drive Concrete beats brick

A welded K frame is so critical to the car's handling and rigidity.
weld
I used the frame boxes that used to be available & boxed in the frame rails on this car among with many other strengthening / other welding tricks. Weld weld and weld some more. Remember cop cars had 110 or so more welds on them.

The car is very tight but i am sure a shock tower brace back to the firewall will not hurt.

Most overlooked flex area by everyone is reinforcing the bracing and package tray behind the rear seat. This is not conjecture but something learned by paying attention to detail. help

Watkins Glen 2012 010 a.jpg
Last edited by Dilbert; 01/14/19 09:27 AM.
Re: US Car Tool stiff kit [Re: jcc] #2606742
01/15/19 01:19 AM
01/15/19 01:19 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,386
Pikes Peak Country
T
TC@HP2 Offline
master
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T

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,386
Pikes Peak Country
Originally Posted By jcc

Quote:
Because the upper control arm mounts and shock mounts are not radically loaded in a mopar, the shock tower braces is less about providing loading support than it is of increasing the rigidity of the simply cube structure that is the engine bay. By turning it into multiple smaller triangles, you can reduce the flex. Percentage of improvement by doing this, I can't quote a number.


Not sure how we define "radically" here. but with my back of the napkin thinking, since most all wheel forces transmit thru the front spindle, and the spindle being vertically approx 1/3 above the lower BJ, and the upper BJ approx 2/3 above the spindle, I think it would safe to assume the loads proportioned between the upper and lower as nearly the same ratio. And IMO, the K frame has much greater designed in robustness then the UCA mounting pivot points, beyond the above mentioned ratio, and the UCA apivot area would be an area next focused on, after the low hanging fruit upgrade of welding up the K member.


Seem to recall seeing somewhere that on a mopar the load is not equally split and the upper arm loads were a quarter to third of the lower arm loads. Could be recalling this incorrectly. If this is correct, they would not need as much reinforcement as the lower.

Originally Posted By jcc
Quote:
Because of the lack of loading in the upper parts of the engine bay, mounting a brace to the firewall can be effective in a mopar, but there is a question in my mind about putting structure that mounts in a large flat plane of sheet that doesn't make me think it is the most effective way to do it.


I always assumed two things on a well designed/installed Monte Carlo brace on a Mopar, if achievable, both triangle braces from ea fender area would meet at a center node, and that node would also be on a seamed/flanged 90 degree joint of two metal OEM panels.


IMO, a basic monte carlo bar, or any of the other simple triangle braces being sold out there appear to be only marginally effective because they are bolting to stamped sheetmetal in tension without very large mountings plates to distribute the load. But if my point above this is valid, then they would not be supporting a significant load and may be okay after all.

Originally Posted By jcc
Quote:
I read a white paper on nascar design sometime ago. In it they stated that the most heavily loaded area is the firewall/a pillar area. While we aren't running out cars are near 200 mph speeds on superspeedways, it does seem logical to say that improvements in this area on a performance street car can yield gains as well, especially since we lack all the triangulation structure they have in this spot.

I wonder in the above if, "Heavily loaded" really means "loaded", or "highly stressed"?


Loaded vs stressed, entirely possible. I read this well over ten years ago, maybe even 20. Its been quite a long time. I'd imagine I've forgotten the finer details of it and in this case, those specifics do denote different factors.

Re: US Car Tool stiff kit [Re: ThermoQuad] #2606814
01/15/19 10:29 AM
01/15/19 10:29 AM
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 636
Graz, Austria
DGS Offline
mopar
DGS  Offline
mopar

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 636
Graz, Austria
Originally Posted By Dilbert


Most overlooked flex area by everyone is reinforcing the bracing and package tray behind the rear seat. This is not conjecture but something learned by paying attention to detail. help


How would you add bracing to the package tray? Just replace the original one or fab something new? I tried searching for package tray bracing but didn't find much except this (69 Charger):


Re: US Car Tool stiff kit [Re: AndyF] #2606841
01/15/19 11:47 AM
01/15/19 11:47 AM
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
Supercuda Offline
About to go away
Supercuda  Offline
About to go away

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
I am building some large cabinets for shop storage. sides are 3/4" plywood, shelves are 1/2" plywood framed with 1.5x1.5" wood. Even screwed and glued together is can rack. So the back (this would be akin to the rear shelf bracing here) is a sheet of 1/4" plywood screwed and glued to the sides and each shelf as well as the top and bottom. It will never rack.

If you would add a sheet metal cover atop that bracing to both seal off the entire opening but you welded it to all the sides and braces you'd pretty much never have flex there. Over kill? Maybe, but I do';t have a supercomputer to run numbers. I know some sanctioning bodies require that to be sealed off if you are running a fuel cell so it may as well pull double duty.


They say there are no such thing as a stupid question.
They say there is always the exception that proves the rule.
Don't be the exception.
Re: US Car Tool stiff kit [Re: Supercuda] #2606852
01/15/19 12:16 PM
01/15/19 12:16 PM
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 636
Graz, Austria
DGS Offline
mopar
DGS  Offline
mopar

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 636
Graz, Austria
Originally Posted By Supercuda


If you would add a sheet metal cover atop that bracing to both seal off the entire opening but you welded it to all the sides and braces you'd pretty much never have flex there. Over kill? Maybe, but I do';t have a supercomputer to run numbers. I know some sanctioning bodies require that to be sealed off if you are running a fuel cell so it may as well pull double duty.


Basically replacing the cardboard trunk divider with metal and weld it?

Re: US Car Tool stiff kit [Re: Supercuda] #2606853
01/15/19 12:17 PM
01/15/19 12:17 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,695
Bitopia
J
jcc Offline
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
jcc  Offline
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
J

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,695
Bitopia
I agree, adding a simple well attached shear panel, thicker the better (I used Alum/nomex honeycomb), would be most efficient structural upgrade, and you get the safety bonus of a fire barrier. I however am unconvinced this stiffened area in the big picture adds much overall.


Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
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