My existing MP distributor needs replaced and I am looking for an upgrade. I am running MSD Streetfire ignition and the MSD Vibration coil. I want a VA unit with the female wire connectors. I am not sure if I should look at the Hall effect pickup or stick with the magnetic pickup. Is a billet unit needed?
I don't mind buying a better unit if it is actually better. I don't think I want a RTR unit since my MSD box has been running flawless since I installed it about five years ago.
What do you suggest?

Thanks

I would suggest the same one, a 70's VA unit (definitely avoid a newer Mallory based unit). Set the lower shaft end play to .005" with speedway mtrs $5 kit of 1/2"ID flat not beveled washers. check/correct Rotor Phasing. reduce rotor to cap terminal radial clearance to .015" by drilling out the rotor rivet & subbing in a longer strip of brass or NAPA has an Echlin rotor with an .060" longer blade "MO3000" for $8.xx out the door. toss the heavy spring with the elongated loop & sub in a lighter mr gasket/transdapt/MP lighter spring for starters for your curve. Not sure if this needs to be altered/changed for this MSD (I ain't up on the streetfire) but I wanted to give some basic dist prep. Also check the fit of the upper plate pivot pin for slop (affects reluctor gap) and shaft/bushing side play.

Thank you Robert. I was thinking of a direct replacement but ran across the Pertronix version. It has the HEI cap but I could buy new ends. Anyone run this style?

I'm pretty sure those caps swap. If I can find my HEI (mopar) cap I will check. that is alot of $$$ but Pertronix does have a good rep.

I found my HEI male terminal cap & it does NOT fit our dizzys. I was thinking that I had a conversion cap but no.

Might also want to check out FBO; the VA distributor I got from them works great and came with curve set up after a phone call to them. I changed the pigtail connector out to plug into my MSD pigtail, which can be done either using a spare MSD purple & green harness or another 2-wire plug. I don't hard-wire that connection as it's easier to just unplug it when pulling the distributor. I think the FBO deal was about $250 to my door, and I think there was a choice of caps/terminals.

FBO would be my first choice. I use their products and Don is extremely helpful.

hi
what is the prob with your dist?

stock /mp dist are very reliable !

I stated that it is an MP dist but it is actually the FBO unit. I bought it from Don many years ago and it is a Manifold vacuum type that has been flawless. I would definately consider another one but I would ask for one that has a higher minimum vacuum rating. Mine is a 12"hg minimum unit and my idle vacuum is right at 12-13 pending idle rpm. But it idles great on manifold vacuum.
My existing one has an issue with the plate that the magnet bolts down too. It is flopping around now.

Thank you everyone!

A person could drill out/replace (fab a new piece) the pivot pin to elim the slop & I'm thinking there are cans with a higher minimum. Might be a cheaper option for you.

Good point Robert.
It looks like FBO has made some upgrades since I bought mine. This might be a good option.

Now Available: Low Vac signal vacuum canister that will read as low as 5" of vacuum to fully engage the stroke of the canister vacuum timing at idle on these big Duration street motors These are now available from FBO Ignition for BB and SB Mopar V-8's.

They're also disengaged at zero stroke at 2.5 to 3" so you will never have vacuum timing at WOT.

Several months ago we decided to make the investment and solve this issue. Gas isn't getting any better so it had to be done to keep our tuning products up to date with fuel formulations.



VC-1 BB
VC-2 SB

There's no argument that a street driven engine will be far happier with a properly tuned Vacuum Canister but until now you couldn't buy one. GM knew this back in the muscle car era and produced a Vacuum can known as the B-28 Performance Canister now long obsolete. It was used on many of their best and most powerful street motors of the Muscle car era... Now this engineering is available for you Mopar Guys.

We have them for Chevy's including the HEI, Mopar cast distributors and our New Billet Mopar Distributors. Ford, Buick, Olds, AMC and just about any vacuum canister can be custom built to achieve a perfect tune-up for whatever level of performance you're tuning.

5" too low? we can set up a canister for your application at 8" or 10" if needed (allow us 2-3 weeks to get them built) stock units will in most cases activate at 10 or 12".

We are not claiming to have reinvented the wheel, we use cores (OEM American Made if possible) and rebuild these units with all new internal OEM style components, diaphragms, metal pistons (replacing the Chinese plastic ones), springs, adjusting screws (American threads instead of Chinese metric) are all replaced, then the tricky part.... resealing the two halves with a crush ring. Then they are off to plating for the gold finish and ready to ship.

We are dedicated to building innovative ignition components and tuning products and backing them up with technical knowledge to help you tune your ignition properly.

As with All of Our FBO Ignition labeled products these Are 90+% Made in America and carry our unmatched 5 YEAR Warranty.

Nice product Don!
That would help those of us who are thinking of cam swaps but are limited by the idle vacuum when running the manifold sourced vacuum advance units.👍

I fixed my issue by reinstalling your FBO non VA distributor that was on the engine before I bought your VA unit. I got in in tonight and checked the coil to ground spark and thought it was going to burn a hole in my firewall😀.

Do you rebuild existing units? If so, mine would need the advance plate fixed (moves up/down) and a lower rated vacuum pod for future cam upgrades. Mine is rated at 12"hg per your card.

Thanks again!

That's great to see... I've been looking for a low-vac can for a while!

My 272 @ .050 cam idles at 6-7" Hg (22 initial) and I would like to have full (manifold vac) advance there. Idle is a lot better with 34 deg but don't want to lock it out due to street use and starter kickback.