I have good fuses I traced back to the flasher switch I don't have any power there either,at what point do you get to where the last thing you check is the actual turn signal switch?It has been replaced a few years ago I see by looking through the steering wheel but trying to eliminate up to that point no brake lights either have running lights all four corners power on one spade to each of the flasher relays,two red wires have power at brake switch thanks for any help

Sounds to me like you have isolated the trouble to the switch. Get a replacement from the parts store and just plug it in before installing it to try it. That way you aren't having to tear apart the column and if it doesn't fix the issue just return the switch.

Good idea thanks!!I feel stupid👍

Agreed, common problem on B bodies, just that I'd double check the wiring on the new switch with the FSM wiring diagram before plugging it in, some of the aftermarket switches have terminal feeds in the wrong pin location, as they are for other applications at times, and it never fails that your application isn't one of them, I've had this happen on a few aftermarket turn signal switches, Mopar and GM... it's easy enough to move the wires in the plug end by depressing the tang that holds it in the plastic pin housing, removing it and swapping it out in the desired order

Mike

Good info Mike thanks it may just be a new cancel lever, I can't see the whole switch but either way now I have a direction to go next,thanks again!I'll report back when I get it out in the opens tommorow night

Had the same problem on my GTX. The switch fixed it.

But...I did an aftermarket switch first and that didn’t fix it, splicing the wires. Found a NOS piece and it worked, so not sure what happened. I did check the connector (might be a good thing to check).

year one has the correct, works great turn signal switch

If you ain't already taken it out (TS switch) you might ohm it in the 3 positions & see if the continuities at the pull apart connector are correct. white is power in from the brake light switch & with the stalk in neutral there should be continuity to the (2) out wires to the dr/pass large filaments in the rear 1157 bulbs & you could go behind the dr kick panel & jump fire there to see if everything rearward from that point is good (or not). www.mymopar.com has wiring diagrams. I hear they ain't 100% complete in some apps but for a bare bones 69 you should be good.

Yeah been using that diagram.The white wire to brake stop switch should be hot?I ask that because it is not but the two red or red/pink are hot,but not the white,appreciate your response man!I work grain harvest so no didn't get it off last night I'll check this stuff out all I can tell you is the dash harness side of turn signal switch harness only has one got wire,a red wire but thanks much

Also thanks Nowak and csk

Kowal sorry on a android ph and it doesn't like forums my above response I was typing over other words like a ghost screen weird ok thanks

Just wanted to emphasize Robert the white brake stop switch has no power but I might have read that wrong you said power into switch but my other two are hot.

No it was my mistake, the white power in from the brake pedal switch will only be hot when the pedal is pressed & with the stalk in the "middle" there should be power out to the R/L rear brake light large filaments. In other words the brakes functioning normally like they should with no TS interaction cuz you ain't making a turn.

But the brake lights go through the turn signal switch to separate them to both sides.

Stumpy yep I got that use to mess with this stuff years ago old Ferd pickups had a copper rivet,when the contacts wore down I would re pean that rivet I did that for alot of guys while the rest the world was scrounging for complete columns so they didn't have to fish those wires through.
Robert gotcha,didn't get out there tonight either but I'll post back for sure thanks very much again,I see your in Lincoln I came up 77 went up to Wahoo to drop some implements accidentally went through the city instead of around. Your town isn't for Kansas dummy's!

Are you saying you don't have power to the turn signal flasher with the key on ?? Is so its not the turn signal switch as the flasher gets power right from a fuse that's powered at key on. Then from the T/sinal flasher that power goes to the T/signal switch. Or am I reading this wrong ? Ron

Actually I grew up in Kansas! (Parsons) & settled in Lincoln (for the most part) decades ago after drifting around the country for a few years after I got out of the Army. Lincoln ain't bad exc in rush hour. Violent crime is on the increase here (like everywhere), drugs/mental health issues. I dont know the basics of that system real well & I would definitely check what Ron said.

Yeah I have power to the flasher,just spent a hour under there my biggest issue using the wiring diagram is the color on the turn signal pigtail don't match color wise with whats in the harness side plug,my biggest concern is the red wire on harness side (which has keyed power)of turn signal plug matches up to a lime green wire on the turn signal side connector. This car had a turn signal switch and canceler installed in it by a previous owner and I don't know if they pulled some of the pins out of some of the plugs and got them in the wrong Spots I'm having a hard time reading the factory wiring diagram when you're looking at the numbered plug on the diagram is that the turn signal pigtail end or is that the harness end I'm just not real used to that style of simple diagram, but like I said I got a red power wire in the harness going to the turn signal switch plug and his corresponding with a green wire I would think he would go to the red wire but maybe I'm wrong. The pins in the pigtail side of the turn signal switch are fairly loose I wouldn't put it past somebody putting something in the wrong hole cause this car had some janky repairs.I sure need to see another cars column connection to see I guess

Thanks Robert and 383man for trying to help!

Sometimes these things are pretty irritating. Through the years, Chrysler has changed the color of the wires at terminal ends. One color on one side of the connector, and a different color connects to it on the other 1/2 of the connector. I believe it probably has a lot to do with who supplied the specific harness, and the color could have changed during a model year, or after a model year. It can make things pretty complex. About the only thing you can do is use an Ohm meter and check the column harness to see where each wire ends up on the switch itself. You will need to make a diagram you understand, so you know how to orientate it to the other connector. Then label each wire on your diagram as to where it goes. Hopefully the wires in the column harness are in the correct location in the connector as the wires that match the correct color on the wiring diagram you are using. As much of a pain as that is, its probably the only way to get it right.

I have a lot of wiring experience. Don't let this get you down, sometimes its hard for the seasoned guys as well. I'm messing with a Mopar cruise control system for my old car. The factory cruise functioned pretty much the same for several years. The wiring I have available between the servo, the brake switch, and the off/on/resume and set switch uses different color wires at every connection. To make things even more fun, one connection has 4 wires, and its mate has 4 wires, both parts use the same 4 colors for the wires on both sides of the connector, but each color has a different function on the other end of the connector. The wires are (or were, I won't say who may have messed them up) in the correct location in the connector, but the white wire does not connect to the white wire, it connects to a blue wire. The other blue wire connects to a yellow wire, The other yellow wire connects to, well, you get the idea. To make matters worse, neither group of color wires did the same function as the matching color of wires in the wiring diagram I was using. After I finally figured out the wiring harness, I had 3 bad switches in a row. The cruise still does not function, after the bad switches, I decides I didn't need cruise right now.

Good luck with your turn signal switch. Gene

Damn yeah it's frustrating,I can't see behind the switch but took the cancel lever off,held meter on each of the four Contacts and found a corresponding pin as a continuity test.I assume the box picture on diagram for ts switch is the harness side,thanks for advice and the pep talk I'll just stick with it as time allows...thanks man

One hot red wire from harness I just find it hard to believe all those wires are receiving from the switch and nothing else got on harness side of ts plug but I'll find another car maybe this weekend and see what it looks like know of a few 69s hiding out

More questions than answers I wish I knew how to really share pics on here I've come to realize that in the original 69 Mopar wiring diagram the turn signal switch picture the colors coincide with the pigtail of the turn signal switch but the colors that are in the harness or different I've brought this up before but what is crazy is my plug from the turn signal switch the white wire and the dark green wire are on the wrong side I don't have their number correlation or pin number but when I plug them together the white wire in the dark green wire going into nothing there's nothing there but there's enough pins in the connectors to do all the wires this is crazy I'm trying to figure out what wires from harness side or supposed to connect to the dr dark green and white wire.I should say and the white wire I know the white wire from the Flasher but it's wrapped up in the main harness I'll keep trying😵

If you ohm the white wire do you have continuity to (2) other wires (stalk in neutral) & if so what colors are they?

Robert I havnt tried that but before that I don't have a connection for it at the 10 pin connector.I do have continuity to all colors from the ts switched plug to the contacts in the signal switch.I will try your deal too,also I don't have any white wires at the ts flasher.Also I can't get the brake switch red wires to transfer power through the switch to the white wire.I have power at the brake switch red wires but stop switch isn't working I guess,sorry for jumping around short lunch and a crappy phone I'll try to clarify tonight better,thanks for sticking with me on this.But for damn sure when the 10 pin connector is plugged in the white and dk green are dead ended.

I'll try that this weekend won't be home this evening,but have to figure out why I have no wires on the harness side of 10 pin to white,drk green which all the colors in the ts side of plug are in the right spots on its own connector

The brake light switch is a pretty simple switch. it has power coming in (whatever color that wire might be), That power comes from the fuse panel. When the brake pedal is up, the switch is open, and no power goes through it. When you step on the pedal, the switch is turned on and the power goes through the other side. (Newer brake light switches with cruise control can have up to 6 wires from the brake switch, if you don't have 6 wires, we won't go into that). If there are 2 wires coming from the out put side, both of those wires should go to the turn signal switch.

From the brake switch, the power should go to the turn signal switch where it will be separated to a left and a right side, so the brake light can be canceled for the turn to function. If you jump past the brake light switch so the output wires are powered, you should get another power source coming into the turn signal switch, and that power should supply power to both rear turn/brake lights individually, through the turn switch. Gene

The only service manual I have available right now is a 78 Van, and the turn signal switch in it only has 8 pins. I would give you the pin out of the turn signal switch.

OK, so I've been thinking about this. The 8 pin connector for the 78 Van is as follows:
1) 18 G white - power from the brake light switch
2) 18 g dark green - to the right rear turn
3) 18 g yellow w/ black line -to left rear turn
4) 18 G red - power from turn signal flasher
5) 18 g dark blue - power from hazard flasher
6) 18 G light green - right front turn
7) 18 g yellow - left front turn
8) 18 g dark green with white line - power from the horn fuse

From this list, you should have power coming into the turn signal switch from the following wires:
Turn flasher with the key on.
Hazard (4 way) flasher any time.
Brake light switch only when the pedal is stepped on.
Horn any time. The horn honks when the power wire is grounded.

Generally, wires from the turn switch that have yellow on them are for the left turn (front or rear) and wires with green are right turn (front or rear, except the horn wire)

From each of the front turn wires there may also be a wire for each side of the same color that is a much smaller wire, those would be for the turn signal lights on the dash. On the newer stuff (like this 78) those wires would have been pulled off the body side harness, they may be the other 2 wires on your connector. At this point, I really wouldn't worry too much about any extra wires in the connector. It would simply mean a secondary circuit doesn't work.

If you power these wires, your turn and brake lights should work. You should be able to use a jumper wire from a hot source to each light wire and see that light light up on your car. Gene

That's a lot of info I appreciate it if you don't mind go to the my Mopar 69 wiring diagrams and go right to that turn signal switch you will see pin connector 9 and 10 are empty as they are on the harness side of the car I'm working on but guess what the white wire that runs up to the turn signal switch is in that tenth position with the green beside it that is what really blows my mind at the moment.I am pretty sure I need to get under another cars dash at this point.One of the white wires comes from the brake switch as you say and I have continuity through there the other white goes to the flasher switch on dash.The dark green goes to the rear brake lights through the plug for rear harness and as I say the white wire goes to 7 pin harness side of TS connector.That is enough issues in and of itself because white pin 7 and drk green pin 6 are on the wrong side of the brown wire pin 8 to connect the TS connector to the harness side maybe I just found the very problem Myself by saying that, but I don't particularly want to burn down a $200,000 car but it's about the only answer for starters that makes any sense I bet somewhere somebody's reading all this just laughing their tail off at me but I don't care I'm not a big wiring guy but I got to figure this out haha I'll start with this as the biggest issue.Thanks for helping if this fixes this tommorow I'll be sure to let you know 👍👍

In my first paragraph when I say the position of the white and green wire in the wrong position I'm saying coming from the turn signal switch connector to match the harness side

Are there empty slots in the place on the connector where the white wire and the green wire are suppose to be?

Is it possible your old harness that you replaced had burnt or broken wires, or the connector is bad at the correct locations, so someone relocated those two wires to a different position that wasn't being used so it would work for them?

Its possible the green wire is for the horn. If you hook to a test light clip to a power source, and touch the green wire in the column harness, does the test light light? Does it light if you push the horn ring like you want to honk the horn? Gene

I've spent some time this morning checking it out, yes in the actual TS pigtail 10 pin they are on the wrong side of the brown wire,meaning whern plugged in the white and dark green are going to nothibg 9&10, if you mirror flip the white and green to the other side of the brown the white will line up with the white power in from brake stop switch and the dark green goes to the rear right taillight to the two brake and signal outside bulbs. I know this sounds very simple but it makes sense because that is a replacement turn signal switch in the column and even if this fixes the initial problem I don't have a lot of faith in that turn signal switch yet until I get things flipped around today and see if I was right but there's been a lot of hands in this car before me and some things were little questionable which have been corrected now but I guess we'll see I will get back on here later after I do my little test and let you know if that got me going in the right direction finally thanks for the good help you and RapidRobert kept me from getting to pissed off ha. Crazy thing is I work on tractors a lot for a living and most of them have way more wires but have extremely well laid out diagrams to trace with but these older cars are fairly simple but can still rack your brain,I'm not out of the woods yet but I suspect who ever put that TS switch in the column mirrored them wrong plug to plug that's why two important wires go to nothing on the harness side connector. This is a low mile (,not survivor though) Daytona but when I told the owner it had connecting rods with multiple stampings of double numbers and all rods needed re sized and crank worked he wasn't happy,it was ran hard, at some point the car been jerked totally apart and then put back together and it had bolts in all kind of places that were right for the car but in the wrong holes it's been an uphill battle another guy actually rotisserie restored the body and I've pretty much done everything else it's almost done though ready to go into storage haha I'll check back later man..

I had a similar issue a few years back with my Coronet. The front was fine but only the rear pass side turn/brake lights worked. The front signals and fender mounted indicators worked without issue. Traced the problem back to the steering column harness connector. A tab had cracked on the plug and let both halves wiggle lose over time. The bad connection kept the driver's side rear turn/brake lights from working.

ain't wiring fun ? especially when one gets to sort out others "repairs". i can't count how many "fixes", installs, and "repairs" i have done over the years.
i don't have much hair left on the top of my head.
keep after it, you will succeed !

JB,moparx yeah times you wish you could go back to the guy who was in charge of sourcing the harnesses and ask why for a few pennies more you could have had better electronic connections,they should have done the sealed bulkhead design by atleast for all the new bodys in 68 but it is what it is.
On high a high note I fixed it,or should I say we fixed it I need the pep talk or I loose sight and think it's something I'll never find so thanks RapidRobert, Poorboy and the others it was very simple 5 minute fix after a week of sophomoric frustration.
If you separate the turn signal switch 10 pin connector and you take the wires on on the switch side every wire that wasn't in the center was flipped or mirrored to the wrong side I studied where everything goes and what it does and boom turn signals, flashers all for corners I don't have brake lights unless I by pass brake switch because it has no continuity needs replaced.I had no tools to release connectors in TS harness plug so I used a stainless zip tie for a old header wrap project ground then down to slip in beside connectors to release them,kind of like the tool to release tool box draws ha, only thing left now is to get the nose fitted just right and throw some seats in it, but I think I will talk to the owner about dropping the transmission being this is almost winter and having it gone through because the low reverse band pins seals leaking all over the floor.I would rather fight that than this wiring thanks again for all the help!

I happy to hear you got it whipped, congratulation!

I remember back in about the mid 80s, some of the aftermarket replacement turn signal switches came with oversized connectors. You couldn't get the connector to go down through the column no matter what you did. You had to remove the wires from the connector, tape them together, shove them through the column, then reattach the wires to the connector. It was pretty easy to mess up where the wires fit into the connector. I remember having to straighten out a few of the messed up wires in the connectors from other shops back then. Forgot about that until I read your last post! Would have been much more helpful had I remembered earlier.

If you think the 69 wiring in the service manual is difficult to follow, you won't want anything to do with most of the mid 90s FSM wiring diagrams, they are spread out over about 20 pages. Gene

you ain't just a kidding on the new stuff diagrams. and 2000+ is even MORE fun ! good connector tools are a MUST have if a guy is going to do wiring work. especially on the new stuff.
i'm glad the OP got this sorted as well. good job ! now don't get old and forget your new found knowledge ........ [like i do]

Yeah Poorboy I'll pass on the newer stuff, I'm simple guy and am not ashamed🙋thanks again man!!

Moparx I have enough B body stuff going on to last me I'm a fair hand but never to proud to ask for help,as I would do for anyone on here,but this place is full of knowledgeable people I try to comb the threads to help but serious amounts of brains here!Thank you guys!