I have good fuses I traced back to the flasher switch I don't have any power there either,at what point do you get to where the last thing you check is the actual turn signal switch?It has been replaced a few years ago I see by looking through the steering wheel but trying to eliminate up to that point no brake lights either have running lights all four corners power on one spade to each of the flasher relays,two red wires have power at brake switch thanks for any help

Sounds to me like you have isolated the trouble to the switch. Get a replacement from the parts store and just plug it in before installing it to try it. That way you aren't having to tear apart the column and if it doesn't fix the issue just return the switch.

Good idea thanks!!I feel stupid👍

Agreed, common problem on B bodies, just that I'd double check the wiring on the new switch with the FSM wiring diagram before plugging it in, some of the aftermarket switches have terminal feeds in the wrong pin location, as they are for other applications at times, and it never fails that your application isn't one of them, I've had this happen on a few aftermarket turn signal switches, Mopar and GM... it's easy enough to move the wires in the plug end by depressing the tang that holds it in the plastic pin housing, removing it and swapping it out in the desired order

Mike

Good info Mike thanks it may just be a new cancel lever, I can't see the whole switch but either way now I have a direction to go next,thanks again!I'll report back when I get it out in the opens tommorow night

Had the same problem on my GTX. The switch fixed it.

But...I did an aftermarket switch first and that didn’t fix it, splicing the wires. Found a NOS piece and it worked, so not sure what happened. I did check the connector (might be a good thing to check).

year one has the correct, works great turn signal switch

If you ain't already taken it out (TS switch) you might ohm it in the 3 positions & see if the continuities at the pull apart connector are correct. white is power in from the brake light switch & with the stalk in neutral there should be continuity to the (2) out wires to the dr/pass large filaments in the rear 1157 bulbs & you could go behind the dr kick panel & jump fire there to see if everything rearward from that point is good (or not). www.mymopar.com has wiring diagrams. I hear they ain't 100% complete in some apps but for a bare bones 69 you should be good.

Yeah been using that diagram.The white wire to brake stop switch should be hot?I ask that because it is not but the two red or red/pink are hot,but not the white,appreciate your response man!I work grain harvest so no didn't get it off last night I'll check this stuff out all I can tell you is the dash harness side of turn signal switch harness only has one got wire,a red wire but thanks much

Also thanks Nowak and csk

Kowal sorry on a android ph and it doesn't like forums my above response I was typing over other words like a ghost screen weird ok thanks

Just wanted to emphasize Robert the white brake stop switch has no power but I might have read that wrong you said power into switch but my other two are hot.

No it was my mistake, the white power in from the brake pedal switch will only be hot when the pedal is pressed & with the stalk in the "middle" there should be power out to the R/L rear brake light large filaments. In other words the brakes functioning normally like they should with no TS interaction cuz you ain't making a turn.

But the brake lights go through the turn signal switch to separate them to both sides.

Stumpy yep I got that use to mess with this stuff years ago old Ferd pickups had a copper rivet,when the contacts wore down I would re pean that rivet I did that for alot of guys while the rest the world was scrounging for complete columns so they didn't have to fish those wires through.
Robert gotcha,didn't get out there tonight either but I'll post back for sure thanks very much again,I see your in Lincoln I came up 77 went up to Wahoo to drop some implements accidentally went through the city instead of around. Your town isn't for Kansas dummy's!

Are you saying you don't have power to the turn signal flasher with the key on ?? Is so its not the turn signal switch as the flasher gets power right from a fuse that's powered at key on. Then from the T/sinal flasher that power goes to the T/signal switch. Or am I reading this wrong ? Ron

Actually I grew up in Kansas! (Parsons) & settled in Lincoln (for the most part) decades ago after drifting around the country for a few years after I got out of the Army. Lincoln ain't bad exc in rush hour. Violent crime is on the increase here (like everywhere), drugs/mental health issues. I dont know the basics of that system real well & I would definitely check what Ron said.

Yeah I have power to the flasher,just spent a hour under there my biggest issue using the wiring diagram is the color on the turn signal pigtail don't match color wise with whats in the harness side plug,my biggest concern is the red wire on harness side (which has keyed power)of turn signal plug matches up to a lime green wire on the turn signal side connector. This car had a turn signal switch and canceler installed in it by a previous owner and I don't know if they pulled some of the pins out of some of the plugs and got them in the wrong Spots I'm having a hard time reading the factory wiring diagram when you're looking at the numbered plug on the diagram is that the turn signal pigtail end or is that the harness end I'm just not real used to that style of simple diagram, but like I said I got a red power wire in the harness going to the turn signal switch plug and his corresponding with a green wire I would think he would go to the red wire but maybe I'm wrong. The pins in the pigtail side of the turn signal switch are fairly loose I wouldn't put it past somebody putting something in the wrong hole cause this car had some janky repairs.I sure need to see another cars column connection to see I guess

Thanks Robert and 383man for trying to help!

Sometimes these things are pretty irritating. Through the years, Chrysler has changed the color of the wires at terminal ends. One color on one side of the connector, and a different color connects to it on the other 1/2 of the connector. I believe it probably has a lot to do with who supplied the specific harness, and the color could have changed during a model year, or after a model year. It can make things pretty complex. About the only thing you can do is use an Ohm meter and check the column harness to see where each wire ends up on the switch itself. You will need to make a diagram you understand, so you know how to orientate it to the other connector. Then label each wire on your diagram as to where it goes. Hopefully the wires in the column harness are in the correct location in the connector as the wires that match the correct color on the wiring diagram you are using. As much of a pain as that is, its probably the only way to get it right.

I have a lot of wiring experience. Don't let this get you down, sometimes its hard for the seasoned guys as well. I'm messing with a Mopar cruise control system for my old car. The factory cruise functioned pretty much the same for several years. The wiring I have available between the servo, the brake switch, and the off/on/resume and set switch uses different color wires at every connection. To make things even more fun, one connection has 4 wires, and its mate has 4 wires, both parts use the same 4 colors for the wires on both sides of the connector, but each color has a different function on the other end of the connector. The wires are (or were, I won't say who may have messed them up) in the correct location in the connector, but the white wire does not connect to the white wire, it connects to a blue wire. The other blue wire connects to a yellow wire, The other yellow wire connects to, well, you get the idea. To make matters worse, neither group of color wires did the same function as the matching color of wires in the wiring diagram I was using. After I finally figured out the wiring harness, I had 3 bad switches in a row. The cruise still does not function, after the bad switches, I decides I didn't need cruise right now.

Good luck with your turn signal switch. Gene