OK, I need a sanity check.

I have a 1970 Sweptline truck. Wanting to put a 440 in it, yet keep the factory hydraulics. Pedal & master cylinder, mainly.

I would bolt either trans to the Lakewood 15335 bellhousing, using the adapters/centering rings that come with it to mate up to the front of the trans of my choice.

Been doing some research. Hydraulic throwout bearing seems to be the best route for simplicity. There are some companies that offer a piece which can fit the sleeve on either trans.

As a matter of fact, the Dodge NV4500 and the NP435 share the same diameter input sleeve where the throwout bearing rides.

So, it seems possible that the rear-of-block configuration could remain the same (except for clutch/# of splines) if I used NP435 OR NV4500.

SOMEBODY CHANGE MY MIND HERE. I AM ABOUT TO SPEND MONEY ON PARTS

Thank you for reading and any thoughts you can share

I would like to see the hydraulic release bearing assemblies before commenting.

A 1970 light-duty truck would have a mechanical clutch. Is this a bigger truck?

PM sent.

My truck is a D400

The t/o bearing I found is made by a racing parts company located near Chicago. I am looking for other sources before buying any parts

Oh yeah I see it now.

Take it easy, I was looking for the details...
Here is one option, I am looking for other options for hydraulic throwout bearings:

"Ford Street-MAX bearing is designed for use with a 10.5” clutch and fits on a 1-7/16” trans snout. It is 1.75” tall and comes with a .50” thick spacer and shims for proper spacing"
https://www.powertraintech.com/Files/Street-MAX.html

Please explain how setting up a hydraulic throw out bearing is more simple then just adding a slave cylinder and bracket on the outside of the bell like the set up Dodge used on nearly all of the newer trucks.

The line comes from the clutch master, and goes to the slave cylinder that is bolted onto the bell. The slave pushes the clutch fork that operates the standard throw out bearing, just like the old mechanical linkage used to do. All the hydraulics are outside the bell, so you don't have to worry about leakage inside the bell that plagues many hydraulic throw out bearings. Gene

I guess it's as simple as: I dont have to fabricate a bracket for the slave and try to get ratios right, etc.

I found more info I thought I would share:

Tilton has a 60-6102 HRB and that should work. Also, be aware this is for a raised finger clutch application, flat face bearing style. If you have a flat spring then you will need a radius bearing 60-6032 HRB.