Andy.

I've never used CAD programs to make parts. Most shops or computer heads out here are too busy to give the light of darkness. LOL
For that, I approached everything with an old school mentality consisting of found or purchased materials at surplus outlets, rulers, pencils, hacksaws, drills and determination.
I would love to CAD a few items that I can not make or just simply don't have the time to. It would be cool to mill out or 3D print titanium and or aluminum door handles, dash mounted knobs, mirrors and such.

Thank you TBoom.

Congrats !! Ron

Thanks Ron. Your car is propers in my book without rules.

Andy, can I move into your shop? LOL

Lee....Outstanding!!!
Want to save a little more weight, ditch the Holley and build a Thermoquad.

What does this car weigh now?

Shoot me a PM with some things you might want to work on and I'll see if I can help. I have CAD programs for a lot of parts. I mostly focus on 2D or 2.5D parts but I know guys who do 3D and have solid printers. The new gen solid printers can print metal parts but I haven't used that technology for any car parts yet. Here is a picture of the Holley EFI gauge that only weighs 2 oz.

We need a LIKE button!

How cool...big congrats are in order!
Will definitely have to keep an eye out for that one at the newsstand.

There's lot of weight in a stock steering column & jacket that can be removed; I think I posted a photo of my buddy's column on the weight-reduction thread, but that was back when I knew how to post photos here.
basically, a lighter shaft, cut windows in the jacket. I think his weighed something like 8-10 lbs after he was done (drag car, no turn signals).
Love the idea of aluminum door handles; I presume you've already done the hinges.

Since you have a running combination you could have your charging system tested to see how many amps you are actually using. Anyone with a decent voltmeter and amp clamp should be able to do the test for you. Turn on all of your lights, fans, pump, etc and see how many amps you are pulling. I doubt you use more than 55 amps. If you like the look of the factory alternators you could probably get an OE 37 amp unit gutted and rewired to put out 60+ amps. I'm sure it would be a lot less work than you invested in that steering wheel! That was a crazy amount of work. I can't even imagine how much work you have tied up in some of those parts.

Oh No Andy is talking logic.

This is a very well deserved honor, with all of the hard work and determination you put forth over the years. You have my respect and appreciation for sure. Congrats!!

Hey guys.
Just getting a glimpse at this on the north side of midnight.
First and foremost, thank you most for the inspiring remarks.
Though this should be generated to the real world weight loss thread, it's cool to reflect on here as well.

Andy:
"Shoot me a PM with some things you might want to work on and I'll see if I can help. I have CAD programs for a lot of parts. I mostly focus on 2D or 2.5D parts but I know guys who do 3D and have solid printers. The new gen solid printers can print metal parts but I haven't used that technology for any car parts yet. Here is a picture of the Holley EFI gauge that only weighs 2 oz."

I'd love to take you up on the offer to help with the CAD stuff in what ever way you possibly can. I'll soon send you over some quick flicks to give an idea of parts and you let me know if its realistic.
I'd love to see door handles, side view and rear view mirrors be printed out of aluminum. Those things are heavy so imagine that.
That EFI gauge is unimaginable in that weight class. Talk about Welter feather weight category.

Topside:
"Love the idea of aluminum door handles; I presume you've already done the hinges".

Yes, I had already addressed the hinges quite a few years back when I found the cat that was reproducing the A864' and A990-65' aluminum hinges, but did not install them till recently when the new doors went on.

Rtsrunner:
"What does this car weigh now?

Though I've yet to see the article, I'd hate to blow the meat and potatoes before it hits the stands.
I will say this though after holding out for so long, I've done a few minor things since I've last talked to the "Action" team, so I can safely say that the car has now dived below the 3000 Lbs watermark.
I'd like to go back and weigh it and get a real world number to you guys within this coming week or next when I pay a visit to the Lab.

More importantly, cars don't go down the road on their own, and standing weight or curb weight is just that, curb.
If I could get this thing where it carries my 175 Lb structure while still flashing at or about 3000 Lbs, I'd be a happy camper.

Andy:
"Since you have a running combination you could have your charging system tested to see how many amps you are actually using. Anyone with a decent voltmeter and amp clamp should be able to do the test for you. Turn on all of your lights, fans, pump, etc and see how many amps you are pulling. I doubt you use more than 55 amps. If you like the look of the factory alternators you could probably get an OE 37 amp unit gutted and rewired to put out 60+ amps. I'm sure it would be a lot less work than you invested in that steering wheel! That was a crazy amount of work. I can't even imagine how much work you have tied up in some of those parts.

I am going to look at my amp draw and see what kind of electrical appetite it has. I'd be more than happy to run one of those 55 amp mini power stations being that they probably weigh next to nothing.
Are they a one wire combo?

I can't even imaging how to tell y'all how much work both hard and fun it has been to make things for this thing.

Over, but not out.

Congrats FMJ! Now I need to run out and grab a copy...

I forgot I had this in my tool box until I spotted it today. This is a really simple tool for measuring current flow. I checked my starter and it draws 175 amps when the engine is cold. My ignition box uses 10 amps while the engine is running. The alternator in my car puts out about 35 amps with the engine running. Goes to 45 amps if I turn the lights on. The battery was fully charged in this picture so there was only an amp or two going to the battery.

My car may literally have thin skin and all, but thank God I have thick skin.
Cliffy went to town with the snapping on my isms. LOL

That's what happens when you are neighbors in the same hood back in the day. LOL.

Good read and I'm glad they touched on the shadowy influential 2% cars.

Y'know, if the door glass doesn't have to roll down, there's the vent frames & glass and the regulators to consider. Plus the aluminum upper door frames the 4 '65 A/FX hardtops had - they also had the same deal to support the quarter glass.
Some ATVs have plastic interior door handles & lightweight latches and strikers, but that might be pushing it on a street car or in an emergency.
I assume the access covers & splash shields have already been set aside.

Damn, Lee, you make most of us look like slackers!

2% Eh Shot these in '08

"2%" actually refers to the NHRA Rule. The cars inherited that label, but it's not the actual measurement of the cars.
Both Ford & Chrysler actually moved the wheels about 5% but were trying to sneak it past the NHRA. Easier to hide the rears than the fronts.

I've actually snuck the rear past most eyes for many years, but the front stood right where Mother Mope put 'em. Besides, imagine the cost and work of moving a K-member and torsion bars a few inches forward.
I figured by moving my engine back and the rear tires forward, it was equivalent to a 2% set up without the front tire give away.