Have had some cold start issues. I don't think the divorced automatic choke is working right. Car can sit but choke plate never closes. I can put the gas to the floor and the choke plate doesn't close. I can manually close the plate once I open up the throttle a bit. Any ideas?

When you manually close the choke butterfly does it stay closed or drop open again?

You didn't give enough info, but there is an adjustment on the choke spring.

Stays closed.

What info do you need?

When you manually close the choke, how much pressure do you have to apply before it closes?

Usually the biggest problem with chokes are the linkage binding up, or there is a build up of varnish on the choke housing or linkage. Often a good cleaning with a can of spray choke and carb cleaner does wonders.

Next up would be incorrect adjustments. There should be an adjustment on the choke housing for richer or leaner, there should also be a choke pull off the opens the choke a little after the motor fires, and there should be linkage to the throttle that will open the choke if the throttle is pushed to wide open. Any one or combination of these things being out of adjustment can cause a problem with the choke closing. Start with the cleaning first. Gene

Not a lot of pressure.

On the side of the choke stove you'll find a hole with a common screw head inside and, possibly, a nut on the opposite side. This is used to adjust the spring tension that closes the choke door. Tighten the adjustment until the choke closes on its own and there is noticeable spring back when closed.

Also, be sure the choke pull-off diaphragm is working or the added tension will prevent the choke from opening on startup.

Thanks! I believe this is where the issue lies. Doesn’t seem like there is much tension.

There won’t be an adjustment hole on a six-pack (2300 center carb?) divorced choke spring assembly. If it is adjustable, it will require removing the spring assembly from the manifold. Not all versions of that choke spring are designed to be adjustable, some are fixed.

Some related six-pack choke info here

Yes that's how mine is. Looks to be adjustable. Problem is one of the bolts for the choke spring assembly broke off and I need to remove the center carb to get to it. I can't for the life of me get the fuel lines apart. Any tips?

Pull rear carb first, unscrew the flare nut at the rear y-fitting to the rear carb first, then center carb, flare nut at the forward y-fitting to center carb. Use a flare nut wrench and support the fitting.

Got everything back together. Had all carbs off. Didn't mess with any adjustments on the carbs. Only the choke. First crank up and it idles way too high like 3000 RPMs. What did I mess up and how do I fix?

First, when the engine starts does the pull-off open the choke blade a little? If not, you need to adjust/replace the pull-off.

If the choke blade is opening, you need to adjust the fast idle; this is done by bending the arm that contacts the fast idle cam. Insert the blade of a common screwdriver in the slot in the red circle below and bend the arm away from the plastic cam. Trial and error will achieve the desired fast idle rpm.

And it also should be on the correct step of the cam when adjusting.