Check the needle and seat. The rubber could be deteriorated and not sealing. Very easy to take out and change. Take it out , look at the rubber. If it looks questionable and you don't remember if it ever was changed. Put a new assembly in.

From what I see,one is BB,the other SB.

You are probably right.
That is what i asked a few posts ago.
Rockauto has it listed as replacement part for tne part 3656766 wich is what i have ,and it is not.

VC 187 seems to be the part for the BB(if somebody else needs to order a canister)

I,m going to see if at least they don,t charge to me the shipping of the correct one.

The one on the right in photo 1 is for small block, and maybe slant 6.

My notes have VC-190 as small block, with 11 distributor degrees and starts to add advance around 9" manifold vacuum.

The small block Mopar Performance vacuum advances that I own have 8.5 distributor degrees. My guess is the big block versions were close to that range.

Mancini sells a couple versions for B/RB with electronics or single pooint including VC187.

Any progress on tuning?

Continue to fight

I'll update the thread with the new tests these days.
Rightnow i,m just checking all the circuits again and i don,t find nothing wrong.

However,what is the purpouse of the channel and holes with the red arrows in the picture?


They are connected to the primaries curb idle circuit but seem to be blind in the secondaries side.
I have circuit diagrams for the metering and the front side of the primary body but i don,t find one for the trottle an main body base.
Thanks

Where you able to take a peek at the needle and seat. Make sure the rubber is intact and still soft.

Not used on the list 3310s. It is for carburetors that had rear idle ports fed from the primary idle.

I think you need to fiddle with the adjustments, even though its going to burn 5 gals of petrol doing so. getting running at fast idle speeds, using timing and throttle etc so its smooth. Then start working everything slowly back down to a lower rpm, 9000 - 1000. Then lower if you can.

Its really important the timing curve doesn't start advancing to soon with that cam.
If its 20* at 1000 rpm, 17* at 900 rpm, then it could 16* at 800 and 15* at 700. That would be a reason why it won't run as well at 700 or 800 if for this particular engine combo it needs 17* at idle.

Excuse me for the delay in replying.
This was driving my nuts, so i did prefer to take a break while i was receiving the parts i was waiting for.
Now i got the Stant 10071 cap and the AC delco CV736 pcv valve.The Stant cap comes with two grommets and one of them fits perfect with this valve.The bad point it doesnt seem to be a breather but just a cap for the pcv installation.
I also have installed the correct vacuum advance canister .




I suppouse this will be with the vacuum advance plugged in?
Connecting to manifold vac.i,m around 36* at idle.Also helps to increase the rpm a bit.
Another thing to consider about timming is how many volts does need a MP ignition system to produce a healthy spark for a good combustion.
The stock alternator with the mechanical stock regulator starts charging over the 800 rpm and i would say that it does not arrive to 14 volts.

There should be a breather on one valve cover and a PCV valve on the other. The pcv valve connects to the carburetor base. The 'breather cap is for a 'closed system' with a hose to the air cleaner base. Or you can use an open breather like in this illustration:
http://www.imperialclub.org/Repair/Lit/Master/154/Page15.htm
No vacuum advance!!! My statement quoted above is about mechanical advance starting at an rpm lower than idle rpm.

First establish timing without vacuum advance.
This is true for factory stock as well as modified engines like yours.

Igniting the mixture earlier using vacuum advance is for conditions when the mixture density is low and the flame develops slowly. Idle mixtures need to be moderately rich to be efficient maker of power. 12:1 AFR cold, 12.5 to 13.7 AFR warm depending on the compression, overlap, etc.

The ignition will work fine with even 11-12 Volts.