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Re: Indy aluminum blocks
[Re: dvw]
#2551406
09/18/18 10:06 AM
09/18/18 10:06 AM
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 313
Northeast Indiana
73DAD
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 313
Northeast Indiana
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My Mega blocked trimmed up is 274lbs w/caps.
Doug
That's impressive! What was your 'before' weight? 320ish?
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Re: Indy aluminum blocks
[Re: racerx]
#2551446
09/18/18 11:59 AM
09/18/18 11:59 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,103
Chicago Blackhawks
hemicar1971
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,103
Chicago Blackhawks
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I have a 30 over 1970 iron block and it weighs 260lbs has some trimming, not much. I think the other factory iron blocks I have weigh a few lbs more depending on the bore size. A friend of mine has been running a Aluminum Indy block and has had a lot of trouble over the years keeping the motor together. 605 CI, lots of HP Callies Crank, Stage V Heads on and on. He is now going to use the new KB Block for his next build that is being done at present because he thinks the Indy block might be moving around and causing his problems.
1971 HEMI E BODY REGISTRY
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Re: Indy aluminum blocks
[Re: dvw]
#2551483
09/18/18 01:18 PM
09/18/18 01:18 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,294
NE Ohio
DoubleD
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,294
NE Ohio
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My Mega blocked trimmed up is 274lbs w/caps.
Doug
Thats pretty trimmed up! my world mega HEMI block 4.5 bore was around 325lbs
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Re: Indy aluminum blocks
[Re: racerx]
#2551553
09/18/18 03:50 PM
09/18/18 03:50 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,352
Las Vegas
Al_Alguire
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,352
Las Vegas
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I have had a few KB and couple of Indy blocks. NONE have been under 127lbs and that was a low deck deal with a big cam core.
"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."
"It's never wrong to do the right thing"
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Re: Indy aluminum blocks
[Re: Al_Alguire]
#2694200
09/04/19 06:06 AM
09/04/19 06:06 AM
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 4,064
Mo.
racerx
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 4,064
Mo.
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Any new combos out there on either blocks?
preferably power adders.
Last edited by racerx; 09/04/19 06:07 AM.
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Re: Indy aluminum blocks
[Re: racerx]
#2694387
09/04/19 03:05 PM
09/04/19 03:05 PM
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Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 36
PA
Ody1003
member
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member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 36
PA
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Waiting on block for 10 weeks and just informed castings are not in,(note:block paid in full including freight) be 4 weeks more. From when?
built and sold many blocks from them in 20 yrs.
Note:
1. pressure test,pressure test upon arrival,If your guy can't do it find someone who can.
2. do not let them do any final machining
3. their cnc stroke clearance is spot on, have them do it, de-burr the heck out of it.
4. Cams don,t turn in block, got to fix it.
5. lifter bore size is mayhem, fix it
6. Deck square and parallel un-finished is not good. Do not let them finish deck,and good luck with your given CH on 10.720 deck with what your finished corrected deck will be.
7. Cut main caps loose, re-torque then re-align hone as needed. Ya I know its new, do it
8. If you want pushrod/lifter oiling have them prep it. Hard to find someone that is capable of gun drilling later.
9. There is more, I'm done, Yes they will handle lots of power we can make with our given selection of components, but not experienced with boosted applications
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Re: Indy aluminum blocks
[Re: Ody1003]
#2694454
09/04/19 07:08 PM
09/04/19 07:08 PM
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 4,064
Mo.
racerx
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 4,064
Mo.
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Waiting on block for 10 weeks and just informed castings are not in,(note:block paid in full including freight) be 4 weeks more. From when?
built and sold many blocks from them in 20 yrs.
Note:
1. pressure test,pressure test upon arrival,If your guy can't do it find someone who can.
2. do not let them do any final machining
3. their cnc stroke clearance is spot on, have them do it, de-burr the heck out of it.
4. Cams don,t turn in block, got to fix it.
5. lifter bore size is mayhem, fix it
6. Deck square and parallel un-finished is not good. Do not let them finish deck,and good luck with your given CH on 10.720 deck with what your finished corrected deck will be.
7. Cut main caps loose, re-torque then re-align hone as needed. Ya I know its new, do it
8. If you want pushrod/lifter oiling have them prep it. Hard to find someone that is capable of gun drilling later.
9. There is more, I'm done, Yes they will handle lots of power we can make with our given selection of components, but not experienced with boosted applications Thaxs for the advice...... 
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Re: Indy aluminum blocks
[Re: dvw]
#2694498
09/04/19 10:02 PM
09/04/19 10:02 PM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,097
back in Georgia
dthemi
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,097
back in Georgia
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I've built a few hemis using indy blocks for other people. The trouble i see with all of the indy aluminum water blocks is that the cylinders move around dramatically above 1000 hp. Every one of them ive done, has done it, killing power. Like thats the power limiter..make 1200 and watch the numbers fall as you run it. I don't think they're going to fly apart, but the cylinders do not stay round. KB is a different story entirely, at least the old ones. Haven't been able to do a new one yet.
Indy is made from white glue and wood chips.
Last edited by dthemi; 09/04/19 10:03 PM.
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Re: Indy aluminum blocks
[Re: dthemi]
#2694501
09/04/19 10:10 PM
09/04/19 10:10 PM
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,383
Taxes & Virus's R-US, NY
Dragula
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,383
Taxes & Virus's R-US, NY
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Our bores on our Indy were .007 out of round and .011 taper....There was not enough left to correct it all....And yes when the Indy heats up, the bores shift a little. I am not sure if their sleeves are too thin, or there is not enough aluminum behind them. I would rather have a billet water block at this point...
Last edited by Dragula; 09/04/19 10:13 PM.
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Re: Indy aluminum blocks
[Re: dthemi]
#2694570
09/05/19 05:02 AM
09/05/19 05:02 AM
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 4,064
Mo.
racerx
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 4,064
Mo.
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I've built a few hemis using indy blocks for other people. The trouble i see with all of the indy aluminum water blocks is that the cylinders move around dramatically above 1000 hp. Every one of them ive done, has done it, killing power. Like thats the power limiter..make 1200 and watch the numbers fall as you run it. I don't think they're going to fly apart, but the cylinders do not stay round. KB is a different story entirely, at least the old ones. Haven't been able to do a new one yet.
Indy is made from white glue and wood chips. This scares me  .....I no of one fellow racer that runs a dart (Ford) block that is boosted has concert in it to make it more solid.
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Re: Indy aluminum blocks
[Re: racerx]
#2694600
09/05/19 08:30 AM
09/05/19 08:30 AM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,097
back in Georgia
dthemi
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,097
back in Georgia
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In fairness, 1000hp used to be a big number. These days telling someone you made 1000 gets the what's wrong with it question.
Nitrous, blowers, turbos, have for sure become the norm. Every project i see now has a power adder and not just a small plate. More often than not it's 3 foggers, or forced induction, myself included.
The old KB stuff would move around too on the first build, but would take a set, and stay there. I can't say what the limit is on the old stuff but i know they stay pretty round at 2000hp. The old KB design (wet sleeve ones) were in TF at one point in history. Not really the same as the dry sleeve blocks, but close.
I'm hopeful for the new KB stuff. Any improvement in the orig design will be a home run.
I'm going billet, or solid from here on out personally.
Back on topic though, if you can wait for a kb, do so. Ultimately the indy will bite you if you're a power adder guy.
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Re: Indy aluminum blocks
[Re: dthemi]
#2694627
09/05/19 10:10 AM
09/05/19 10:10 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,669
On the parachute mount
n20mstr
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,669
On the parachute mount
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In fairness, 1000hp used to be a big number. These days telling someone you made 1000 gets the what's wrong with it question.
Nitrous, blowers, turbos, have for sure become the norm. Every project i see now has a power adder and not just a small plate. More often than not it's 3 foggers, or forced induction, myself included.
The old KB stuff would move around too on the first build, but would take a set, and stay there. I can't say what the limit is on the old stuff but i know they stay pretty round at 2000hp. The old KB design (wet sleeve ones) were in TF at one point in history. Not really the same as the dry sleeve blocks, but close.
I'm hopeful for the new KB stuff. Any improvement in the orig design will be a home run.
I'm going billet, or solid from here on out personally.
Back on topic though, if you can wait for a kb, do so. Ultimately the indy will bite you if you're a power adder guy. My Indy block has been difficult to seal up the bore... I have been trying for almost 15 years now. Ever since I have ran a vacuum pump I see the vac has been hard to get, and hard to keep. My local machine shops hone could only net me 5-7 vac going down the track. (this is with nitrous) Now the most recent hone was done at BES. Not sure what they do (hot honing etc) but they told me the bores were not round. Now it has 9-10 going down the track ( I still have a stock timing cover so the stock type front seal it limiting me to 10) Also what I have been doing at BES recommendation is to run it at 90 - 110* on the starting line. It does seem to help, and a Dale Cubic carb lets it go on the brake at literally ANY temp...
....BAD A$$ STREET CAR.....
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Re: Indy aluminum blocks
[Re: n20mstr]
#2694665
09/05/19 11:48 AM
09/05/19 11:48 AM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,097
back in Georgia
dthemi
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,097
back in Georgia
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There's a huge difference in hone jobs for sure. Most of the straight, correct RA jobs are diamond head. The movement in the bores just is what it is. My nitrous KBs start moving noticeably around 1500hp. Thats with warren Johnson, or Kurt hone job. Some have been higher, and every block is a little different. I have a roots blown one that made over 1600on the dyno at 10 over. I've been at 30 over, detonated it, smoked and some pistons. Pulled the head, cleaned the aluminum off the bores, and the thing is still less than a thou out of round. Dingle honed it, slapped in new slugs, put the tune back and go cat go.
I'm getting a billet next, but I'll be filling all my kbs to the water port to see if it helps in the future. All my junk is race only so who cares.
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Re: Indy aluminum blocks
[Re: n20mstr]
#2694669
09/05/19 11:50 AM
09/05/19 11:50 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,352
Las Vegas
Al_Alguire
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,352
Las Vegas
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The bore issue is the very same thing I have seen with the Indy stuff which is why I prefer KB, but since they seem to unobtanium what ya gonna do. Speaking of that if you are waiting on an Indy block Indy has lost their foundry as well, so plan on the wait to continue.
"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."
"It's never wrong to do the right thing"
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Re: Indy aluminum blocks
[Re: hudsonhornet7x]
#2694714
09/05/19 03:26 PM
09/05/19 03:26 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,352
Las Vegas
Al_Alguire
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,352
Las Vegas
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That's NOT BMP running that auction on ebay. I do have a buddy who owns a machine shop here in town that just got one after an 8 month wait. Better than KB....Oh yeah they lost their foundry as well but have found a new one apparently.
"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."
"It's never wrong to do the right thing"
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