I have a little breakdown kit with extra parts, such as Ballast Resistor, Starter Relay, Fan Belt, etc. I want to add an Electronic Ignition Box to kit. It's a factory 360-4.

What would be the most reliable box to purchase to keep or maybe even install now, and keep the old one as a spare. I know it's NOT the orange box. I have below style Ballast Resistor, which means I have five pin box, I think? I should have looked first I guess, but just haven't had a chance, and I know you guys know

Just stretched the legs on the truck the most I have so far since buying well over a year ago now. 80 miles round trip, and it performed great! Really cruised nicely and I enjoyed it so much. Couldn't get rid of the smile on my face. I drove to pick up a used door for my Dad's car.

Thanks.

P.S. I don't mind spending a few bucks to get something quality.

The 4 pin will work in place of the 5 pin. I would just buy a name brand like Standard, Borg Warner or the like if it's just an emergency box. Any of them should get you home.

Ok, thanks. I know it's an old story, but I just hate buying parts now with so much cheap junk coming from other countries. Some of this stuff is bad right out of the box.

What Guitar Jones said, get a 4 pinner at your parts house & unfortunately most of em are overseas made. (or an OE 5 pinner from a yard).

Ok, thank you.

Convert the ignition to the much simpler HEI-system and you'll only have to carry a HEI-module as a spare of needed.
No ballast stuff needed anymore.

I carried a cheap Wells ECU in my 50 Dodge truck (1980 chassis) for years. The only time it got used was when we were on a cruise a some guy's Road Runner died on the cruise. The wells unit got him home. I never replaced it, the truck went well over 100K miles without an issue. Never put a ballast resistor on it, nor did I ever have to change a starter. I plowed snow with that truck for 12 years and never had to replace the auto trans either. I guess when you don't really abuse them they worked pretty good.
Now carburetors were a different matter, it never found one it liked for very long. Gene

I've got lots of spare ECU and ballast resistors but I've only ever had one fail and it was a ballast.

FBO HRR688 bypasses the ballast resistor. I use the supplied jumper and carry my Orange box as a spare and don't carry a spare ballast resistor. Any problems, remove jumper and bolt Orange box back on.

The FBO box isn't cheap, but after running it, and hearing rumors of Don at FBO's retirement, I might get another for a spare.

All that said, I've had a factory box puke out and one ballast resistor go. Never any other problems in 30+ years.

What is FBO that BcudaChris mentions?


One Plymouth I had many years ago had ballast resistors go bad fairly often. I kept a spare on in that car. Never did get that problem diagnosed. The other Mopars I've owned never had any problems.

www.4secondsflat.com Just me I would forget that & go with an OE black '75 up HEI module from a yard & there is a alum plate from www.designed2drive.com to mount it under the dist (pricey & it is easy to make your own) & get a full 12V E coil (no ballast needed). use heat sink paste between the module & the plate. EDIT not the OE HEI here, this was a guys' extras he was unloading.

The HEI setup is pretty cool, I hadn't even considered that option.

The FBO box (http://4secondsflat.com/Ignition.html) has a rev limiter and uses a Pertronix 12V coil. I also use the FBO limiter plate in my distributor. The FBO solution for me worked best for me as it just drops in and hook up a jumper and coil and has the rev limiter.

There is another "bolt in" option out there with a rev limiter/12v coil (http://rev-n-nator.com/products.html) but I have no experience with it.

I've used the FBO limiter plate several times, its a VG deal.

I have a kd emergency ignition box, it by passes everything to get me home, it plugs into the center coil in the dist cap, and powers the rotor to the plugs.
its great on a car if your trying to start in awhile and bypasses the points..

There was a thread a while back with a number of different ECUs gutted - I can't remember where I saw it. One box was a chinese deal with a postage stamp sized circuit board and a simulated heat sink. I'd love to see a full comparison done on all available stock boxes. I don't think Mopar Action has done an article on them but I stopped reading for a couple years so I could be wrong.

Robert, I know that is probably the best thing, an HEI setup, but I just really want the Ma Mopar look to remain. I was so hesitant on even going with headers, but I broke down and did it when I had to do the entire exhaust anyhow. I probably should have gotten the headers coated black. The Rev-n-ator is a really cool system for reliability and sort of stock appearance, but too pricey for this stock engine truck. I have that on my stroked small block Diplomat and love it.

Understood, I would just grab a spare. On a side note the $25 plate is a real good tuning piece.

Bet bang for the buck seems to be the Jegs 7500 unit. Made in USA.


https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/40805/10002/-1

I just bought it yesterday from R. Ehrenberg along with a coil! Decided it sounded like a good reliable piece and stock appearing enough if I pull off the high rev sticker.

Thanks.