these are keyed lifters the oil Galley is drilled in the wrong location too high I had to have custom bushings made taller than normal as well as jesel build me custom lifters to make this work.. I can tell you the lifters and bushings we're not cheap

At your power level,,,,nothing is!

more epoxy in the water jacket area.. I think at this point in time we're going to try to epoxy the issues in the water jacket.. clean up the hone and go

WOW! Your a brave soul!

Maybe far fetched, can you figure a way to pull a vacuum and let it pull the sealant?

Is Waterglass (sodium silicate) a suitable solutuon for the application?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_silicate

I've seen it used successfully to seal a cracked head.

Kevin

I’m sure you can’t wait for the new Dart block to come available at least there is hope for the small block Mopar to have a good block again

I'm assuming you were talking about a stock block..

I have a couple of Ritter XR2 blocks at home, I'll have to check how much material is around there. The fact that the cam bearings were moving around so much is very telling

Nope. Seen world blocks fracture there. Ford blocks. I've seen some Dart blocks fracture there too. It's not that uncommon.

all the blocks that you mention have the structural support above the cam.. this block cracked the cam Mains directly into the main structural support below the camshaft

Right. The fracture is from the cam bearing bore down the bulkhead to the main bore. I've seen it plenty. I've never been able to say exactly why they fracture there, other than a guess.

I'm going to do a google image search and see what shows up.

I'm concerned, My new Ritter block shipped out Friday from Ritters headed to QMP. I was planning on having the cam tunnel bored to 60mm but I'm having second thoughts. I hope the newer blocks have more meat in that area. Thanks for sharing Shilo.

my block is there now. I'm not going to say it is the end of the world. Brad just did another one at 60mm. For another member here.. hopefully by the time your block gets their Brad and Mike will have a chance to study mine.. my motor would not hold the center 3 cam bearings since the day it was originally machine. Which tells me it's probably been cracked from day one it may not be a super critical area just a flaw.. in the design. They may all crack in the same area with no issue that is yet to be determined

My block is the one QMP took out to 60mm, I guess time will tell if I have any problems or not. QMP is the right place to send these things and you will not be disappointed with their work.

I think Shiloh got FU@€ED on his block, I wish Ritter would take care of him. Every time I talk to Kent I mention Shiloh’s deal

I think my block is different than Shiloh’s but that is just my opinion
Shiloh has plugs into water jackets in the valley, my block does not have those.
Many of the machining processes done on my block were done with a real good and very sharp tooling.

Anyways I wish Shiloh the best and I'm very thankful for the help him and Brett have gave me

Stay tuned!

Good luck on the rebuild and thanks for sharing the info, hope you get it sorted out cuz you have one bad azz combo

Very sad to see this Shiloh! I hope that you can fix this issues soon!

On your end, I would not worry about the cracks. The engine has been making some serious power without cam or oiling issues since getting it sorted out in the beginning.
Basically, they can’t get any worse.
On Ritter’s end, the casting needs to be changed to a solid bulkhead. It can be gun drilled later to make for a more robust block.
As far as cam bearings moving, even the A8 I have sitting here with 55mm roller cam bearings has retaining screws to assure they don’t move out of the bore. Maybe because of the aluminum block? I don’t think roller bearings tolerate a lot of press fit without the finished ID changing size.
Good luck with whatever direction you go.

I agree.. the roller cam bearings block off the oil passage.. because of the cracks I believe the oil pressure is opening up the cam tunnel allowing the bearings to push out I'm going to drill and tap those passages at the mains and screw in plugs.. I think those that are building these motors now should do probably the same thing. If you are still running a Babbitt bearing and need oiling not sure how how that would work out if the block were to crack

What are you using for epoxcy? Belzona super metal very expensive, but the best I have found.