Help me build a race 727. - Moparts Forums

Register Log In Moparts Forums Unlawfl's Race & Engine Tech Help me build a race 727.

Print Thread

Page 3 of 3

1

2

3

Re: Help me build a race 727. [Re: dthemi] #2524487 07/20/18 12:35 PM 07/20/18 12:35 PM
Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 4,066 Mo. racerx master
racerx master Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 4,066 Mo.	Originally Posted By dthemi Ok, weighed them both. The 400 with the reid mopar bell, no converter 157 pounds The 727 no converter 128 pounds. The converters are too different to be a fair compare. Bolt together on the 400, and Coan billet front on the 727. Add maybe 7-10 pounds for the big billet flexplate, and crank adapter on the 400. That's another thing better with the chevy. The mopar stock style mounting of the converter using even the best small dia 4 pad flexplate isn't as good as a 6 pad style billet flexplate with the starter ring made into it. Hmmm....interesting thaxs for the response.

Re: Help me build a race 727. [Re: dthemi] #2524774 07/20/18 10:01 PM 07/20/18 10:01 PM
Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 2,776 Ontario Canada M MattW master
MattW master M Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 2,776 Ontario Canada	Originally Posted By dthemi A stock turbo 400 with a brake will take 700 hp almost till the end of time. A bell, some work on the mount, and forget about it. I have a couple of expensive 727's , and they have there charm in being super simple to work on, and they're lighter than a 400, but once you start making powe,r the relative cost starts on an upward trajectory. A stock 727 with a safe drum will take 700 no problem too, but if your plans include more, and more power in the future, use a 400. IMO Sound advice right there! Add a Reid case and you wont have to worry about the 727 taking your feet out.

Re: Help me build a race 727. [Re: viperblue72] #2527868 07/27/18 01:42 PM 07/27/18 01:42 PM
Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 3,837 Central Missouri Fort Leonard... mopar65 master
mopar65 master Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 3,837 Central Missouri Fort Leonard...	I am sure this has been asked before a hundred times. But what’s it cost to switch from a 727 to a turbo 400. I am building a 91 Dakota and have to start building a 904 or 727 for it. I would like to build a 904 for it but don’t even have a transmission etc yet. But I do have a small block 727 case and some left over red alto clutches. But reading about the turbo 400 I am intrested in hearing what the cost Diffrence would be. 3520 pound race ready 1973 Street/Strip Dodge Dart - Stock stroke 440/727 10.49 @ 125.0 on 93 pump gas & ET Street Radials. More to come... ( SGT Miller) Proudly served 12 years in the US ARMY RESERVES support our troops

Re: Help me build a race 727. [Re: viperblue72] #2529073 07/30/18 03:05 PM 07/30/18 03:05 PM
Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 1,430 Martinsville, IN C cdwmotorsports pro stock
cdwmotorsports pro stock C Joined: Mar 2003 Posts: 1,430 Martinsville, IN	My trans is from TranZact in Indy. He has an add that occasionally pops up near the top of the page. Joe is a great guy and I have never had an issue with my trans. eBay-cdwmotorsports

Re: Help me build a race 727. [Re: cdwmotorsports] #2529278 07/30/18 09:57 PM 07/30/18 09:57 PM
Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 2,141 junction city oregon V viperblue72 OP top fuel
viperblue72 OP top fuel V Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 2,141 junction city oregon	Originally Posted By cdwmotorsports My trans is from TranZact in Indy. He has an add that occasionally pops up near the top of the page. Joe is a great guy and I have never had an issue with my trans. Thank you. Looks like I have a lot to learn about transmissions. So far I’m getting a lot of different advice. But the obvious is a lba manual valve body, billet steel front drum, and a bolt in sprag. My transmission. Already has a deep pan, and old manual vb and who knows what else. It is a very old drag car build. I need to find some good reading material as well. Last edited by viperblue72; 07/30/18 10:04 PM.

Re: Help me build a race 727. [Re: viperblue72] #2529326 07/30/18 11:26 PM 07/30/18 11:26 PM
Joined: May 2008 Posts: 1,131 Thigh-Gap Junction @ @#$%&*! New user name, Same old jerk!
@#$%&*! New user name, Same old jerk! @ Joined: May 2008 Posts: 1,131 Thigh-Gap Junction	Originally Posted By viperblue72 So far I’m getting a lot of different advice. But the obvious is a lba manual valve body, billet steel front drum, and a bolt in sprag. I raced for years without any of those parts but got a better drum eventually. I also added some bolts to the factory sprag without removing it. Haven't broken in to the 9's but been very close so maybe my junk isn't racy enough.

Page 3 of 3

1

2

3

Moderated by Al_Alguire, Hotwheelsjr, moparts, not_a_charger, RangerDan440, tboomer

Hop To

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.1