The CF part is all sealed up, vacuum bag and going into the heater box for the next 24 hours at about 140°
Thanks
Pat

Boxed in the upper core support, amazing how much stronger it is now. I think I could pick the car up from it! I will use it run and hide the wires for the fans, horns, AC, and lights.
Thanks
Pat








Made tool to roll the top edge of the core support right at 1”























[img]http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/...yw4z6.jpg[/img]

Really like the boxed in upper... Hard to believe the difference from stock.....

1st coat of primer on the engine bay and fender wells.
Thanks
Pat

That must be a nice feeling to see that primer

Very nice! The boxed upper radiator support looks excellent.

Yes it is nice to be working on the body work as I'm starting to see the end of this project
Thanks
Pat

Thanks Larry, I very happy with it and maybe one day US car tool will make the part for others?
Thanks again!
Pat

if they made one for an e body i would be a buyer. nice work the car looks great

Received my restored dash and instrument panel from Auto instruments very happy with their workmanship and the re-plastic plating.
Thanks
Pat

Josh, I reached out to US cart tool and suggested they should manufacture this part, you should also do the same thing as it might motivate them to start making it for both E and B body Mopar's
Thank you
Pat

Removed all the paint and carpet glue from the floor, next is the inside of the firewall (fun!)
Thanks
Pat

After a few failed attempts we finally came up with the correct formula to make the bumper guard crossmember. We were having problems with the carbon fiber bunching up on top of the mold when in the vacuum bag. The carbon fiber on the mold side look excellent so we decided to hand lay a final layer of carbon fiber on the top side after it was removed from the mold. I'm not sure if I'm going to go with the carbon fiber look or if I'm going to end up painting it black so it would be undetectable. The steel crossmember is about 6 pounds and I ended up with the carbon fiber weighing in at 1 lb. 4 oz.
Thanks
Pat

Outstanding work! Looking forward to more progress pictures.

Bill, Thank You! There is progress just nothing photogenic.
Pat

Epoxy primer the bottom and engine well today.
Thank you!
Pat

I started on the roof of the car by using paint stripper to remove the vinyl top glue, paint, and primer. Then I used a 6” DA sander to remove any leftover glue and paint. As with most vinyl top I was left with some rust and pitting to treat and repair. I coated the roof with a gel rust dissolver and covered the roof with plastic to keep the gel from evaporating. After about 8 hours I removed the plastic and rust dissolver then neutralize the roof with water, and paint prep. One last sanding with 80 grit on the DA sander, a wipe down with Final Klean and 2 coats of epoxy primer. Next I’ll will skim-coat the roof, sand and more epoxy primer.
Thanks
Pat

I used a Dremel with a wire brush to scuff the pits, and then block sanded the roof before skim coating it with body filler. Block sanded it again and sprayed a coat of high build primer. FUN! :-(
Thanks
Pat

Started to see a little surface rust starting on the hood and trunk that I had soda blasted over a year ago and never epoxy primer. So I pulled them out and power wash them with a solution of Hold Tight which neutralizes and cleans off the excess soda on the bare metal. Then I sanded the panels with 80 grit paper with the DA sander. Before priming the outside I sprayed inside of the frame work with rust encapsulator/frame coating.
Thanks
Pat











Here you can see the left side in the picture is sanded and the right side is the virgin metal after powder coating.







Using Eastwoods internal frame coating and rust encapsulator I was able to spray inside both the trunk and hood framework in a variety of different positions to coat all the internal surfaces.