I have installed a 5.7L Gen-III Hemi that is stroked out to 392, with the MSD Hemi-6 ignition box and harness #88864, basically the same combination as TripleThreat, who is a member of this board. I have been trying to start it without success, and it has been back-firing and popping through the carburetor and exhaust. We even tried working with MSD and switching the ignition box, with no change.

I then started looking at part numbers on the build sheet that I received from my engine builder, and discovered that he installed a 58-tooth reluctor wheel on the crankshaft. I was told by TripleThreat and another person on Facebook that this box will not work with this reluctor wheel, that it should be a 32-tooth reluctor wheel, instead.

I have looked everywhere I can think of on the internet for official information on this, and so far I haven't had any luck. If anyone has any information or can post a link, I would appreciate it.

P.S., MSD has not been any help with this question.

The instructions only list 03-05 and 06-07 depending on the harness which only came with 32 tooth reluctor wheel.
I did read MSD was going to update the 6013 to support the 58 tooth crank sensor.

Thank you, that actually does help. I do have the correct ignition box and harness for my application, but the crankshaft that was installed was for an '09 and newer engine. Hopefully just the reluctor wheel itself can be replaced so the bearing clearances won't have to be re-checked & the rotating assembly won't have to be re-balanced.

Crank has to come out.
balancing won't be an issue.
Call MSD maybe you can make it work with the 52 wheel

I don't remember the reluctor wheel tooth count(s) off the top of my head, but if it were me, I'd avoid pulling the engine and changing wheels by getting the correct MSD box for the wheel that's in your engine. This could open a small can of worms though, as the early 5.7 and Eagle 5.7 have different sensors and in the case of the water temp sensor, the early eng has the sensor located on the back side of the front of the block, up behind the water pump. The Eagle eng has the sensor located IN the water pump. To me, changing sensors and connectors would be easier to do, but that's just me.

The engine indeed needs to come out and torn apart, as somehow during the process, the exhaust valves on #5 and #7 were bent. I have no idea how that happened. These are brand new Thitek heads. I have never heard of a vehicle being out of time electronically bending valves. I know it is a possibility that the top of the cylinders would need to be notched for the valve clearance, but I would think that would be on the intake side. Anyone have any experience with that?

I think the thitek uses apache valve locations and those just barely clear the bores on a 5.7 block, if your valves are bigger than stock or in slightly different location they will probably hit. I like to be on the safe side of things, I would pull the engine, tear it down and check visually for enough clearance, probably notch the block down close to the top ring for flow even if there is enough clearance a 5.7 block is going to restrict flow without them. While you got it torn down put in the correct tone wheel on the crank.

MSD def wont work with later reluctor wheel.

I'll lay you odds 20 to 1 that your Exhaust valve hit the top of the bore on #5 and #7 , and I wouldn't be surprised if the others have nicks in them from touching.

ThiTke heads on a 5.7 block with less than 3.957 bore are asking for issues. both performance and physical.
I did a 377ci (3.922 X 3.90) back in March, I had to notch the bore back to get good clearance and better power #s than stock Eagles on that build.
used the 6.1 Head gaskets notched the bores on both Intake and Exhaust side, did both sides back to the gasket and down to the top ring travel.
On a stock 04 5.7 block we test fitted the THitke heads and on that block, #1,3,5 and #6 exhaust valves physically hit the block....needless to say that block wasn't used for this build.

that was my result

PS, I guess I don't need to chime in on the tone ring, you know by now you need the 32 tooth.

Thank you for that reply. I wasn't quite sure what to think about the exhaust valves bent. I would think because of the size, the intakes would be more susceptible. Yes, this has turned into a cluster. I certainly hope my builder steps up and makes it right.

Intake flow is more important so it has more radial clearance to improve flow, exhaust is shoved as far out of the way as possible IE close to the edge of the bore.

Also with a Hemi valve arangement the valves move toward each other especially with a lot of lift and overlap so they need to be sepperated to avoid contact with eachother and again because the ex is less important it gets moved instead of the intake.